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Live From New York: State of the Fragrance Industry

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: January 10, 2008, from the January 2008 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Fashion Group Presents Runway Trends
In November, the Fashion Group Foundation presented its Spring/Summer 2008 Trend Report, direct from the runways of Paris, New York, London and Milan. Attendees were welcomed to the event, held at the Time & Life Building in New York City, by Fashion Group International creative director Marylou Luther.

Color was prominent, with bright lips and intensely colored eyes apparent on the runways, complementing the turn from the sobriety of fall to the flowing, colorful chiffons and organzas featured for spring; makeup followed suit. In a special New York Makeup Trend recap provided by M-A-C, red lips, layered lip products, mixing lipsticks, lip gloss and pigments were featured in fashion shows globally. Shaded cheeks and razor-cut contours were evident in London. “Color was humongous,” noted Luther, whether it appeared in appropriated styles of decades past or mimicking nature—with greens for sustainability, blues for the sea, and sunny oranges and yellows.

Prada utilized dark, heavily shadowed makeup by Pat McGrath, with loosely braided manes. Statement brows and scarlet lips were popular with Chanel, while berry-stained lips were prominent from Dolce & Gabbana. Colored fleck eye shadows from Valentino and colored eye shadows from Lagerfeld also appeared on the runways. For hair there was caramelized color, hair ornaments, colored extensions, loose chignons and even a tie-dyed ponytail.

Bridget Foley, executive editor, W, moderated the panel discussion that followed. The panel featured Julie Gilhart, senior vice president, fashion director, Barneys; Meggan Crum, senior accessories director, InStyle; Joseph Boitano, group senior vice president, GMM women’s RTW & children’s, Saks Fifth Avenue; and Sarah Brown, beauty director, Vogue.

Among the “takeaways” from the featured collections, Brown cited the “artistic, pop art references, fearless use of eye shadows, and a sense of playful individualism.” Gilhart noted the emphasis on transparency and the numerous choices available for consumers. All agreed that “going green has gone from niche to mainstream,” and while beauty has pioneered the movement with sustainable packaging, naturals and biodegradability, there is significant movement for all luxury brands to embrace that consciousness.