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Visions, Debuts and Trends

Nancy Jeffries

Maybelline New York Beauty Studio Welcomes Kristin Davis

Maybelline New York welcomed press and industry pros to their Beauty Studio in New York City. Kristin Davis, formerly of Sex and the City and the current spokesmodel for Maybelline New York, hosted the event. The party mood was energized by an array of Maybelline VIPs, as well as celebrity guests. In addition to viewing the new line of products for spring 2006, Maybelline New York celebrated the Big Apple with Cheryl Vitali, VP, Maybelline New York and Garnier; Karen Fondu, president Maybelline New York; Tamara Tunie, actress; Delta Goodrem, singer-songwriter; Ashley Holzer, U.S. Olympian; and Gail O. Mellow, Ph.D., president, Laguardia Community College.

The product introductions featured Maybelline’s PURE Collection of makeup, consisting of foundation, powder and concealer; Maybelline New York Superstay Lipcolor for long-lasting color and conditioning in a dual-edged tube; and Lash Stylist Comb Mascara—with its own styling comb applicator. The products will be on counter in January and February 2006.

CEW Welcomes Ann Gottlieb

CEW recently welcomed “nose” extraordinaire Ann Gottlieb to present at the Women in Beauty series, held at NYC’s Harmonie Club. Discussing the business of fragrance, Gottlieb recalled her 23-year career journey in the fragrance business, beginning with her stint working for Revlon on the road to being taken under the wing of Estée Lauder herself. Gottlieb’s creations include Obsession for Calvin Klein, and she is credited with US$1 billion of sales in the fragrance industry. In acknowledging Estée Lauder, Gottlieb said “They saw things in her that she didn’t see in herself.”

Gottlieb cited the challenges of creating personal care products, in addition to fine fragrances, and noted that she views her role “translating image into scent.” She said the fragrance industry is facing more competition than it ever has before, and that women are seeking glamour, luster and a luxury aesthetic, which, in her opinion, isn’t provided by designers. “Designers are careful to create a fragrance that is commensurate with their fashion creations; they’re interested in a cohesive presentation.” Gottlieb also addressed the changing dynamics in the perfume industry, in particular the role of essential oil houses. “Oil houses have had to go from providing oils to selling concepts that help sell oils; they’ve really had to step up their marketing components.” Gottleib also addressed the importance of listening and connecting with consumers while connecting them to the brands.

Artistic Visions

Visionaire 47 TASTE is a collaboration between International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF) and the scientific and creative talents of some of the world’s leading flavorists, artists, chefs and photographers. The volume, available in a limited edition of 4,000 numbered copies, uses taste-film technology, developed by Biotec Films, to deliver flavors that accompany images that interpret the concept of such tastes as exotic, youth, luxury and feast. Exotic, for example, by artist Nobuyoshi Araki, is an image of luscious red flowers accompanied by a taste experience that features mango, orange blossom and heat. Youth, by photographer and filmmaker Bruce Weber, offers an ingenuous youthful portrait accompanied by the taste of cherry licorice. The perfumers and flavorists who contributed to the project include Christophe Laudamiel, Marion Sudol and Michael Zampino.

Nouba Professional

Nouba Professional Makeup made its U.S. debut during a November launch at Frederick’s Lounge in New York City. Nouba, the brainchild of Rosy Armanini—an iconic Italian makeup artist famous for her striking ad campaigns and runway looks—offers clean, minimalist packaging and brilliant color. It has been a strong European brand for nearly three decades. The celebration featured makeup artists tending to enthusiastic patrons, who lined up for looks that demonstrated the Nouba brand philosophy—namely that bright pigments could be sophisticated, neutrals could be intriguing and the color spectrum is infinite.

The party continued with a personal appearance by Lisa Gastineau, co-host of the event, whose television series, The Gastineau Girls, featured the event. Nouba products will be available in the United States in February 2006.

Tom Ford Launches New Line at Saks Fifth Avenue

Throngs lined up to meet Tom Ford at New York’s Saks Fifth Avenue in November, and the designer and newly aligned Lauder collaborator signed boxes of his Youth Dew Amber Nude fragrance collection. John Demsey, Aerin Lauder, Leonard Lauder, Evelyn Lauder and model Carolyn Murphy, the face of Youth Dew Amber Nude, feted the designer and new products at a VIP party held on the main floor of Saks. The collaboration began with the modern re-interpretation of the classic Youth Dew fragrance and the original gold-fluted makeup packaging. The Youth Dew Amber Nude Fragrance Collection and the Amber Nude Limited Edition Makeup Collection reflect the sophistication and modernity of Tom Ford’s philosophy of beauty, “sensuous and stunning.” The advertising image, conceived and directed by Ford, pays homage to the original nude image created by Estée Lauder herself in 1953 for Youth Dew Bath Oil.

Fashion Group International Previews Trends

Margaret Hayes, president, The Fashion Group International, introduced creative director Marylou Luther in November at the Fashion Institute of Technology for an overview of the Ready To Wear spring 2006 trends. The program was moderated by designer Bryan Bradley, of Tuleh, who welcomed panelists Sally Singer, fashion news features director, Vogue; Beth Buccini, co-owner, Kirna Zabete; Joan Kaner, senior VP, fashion director, Neiman Marcus; Alice Kim, accessories director, InStyle; and Michael Fink, Saks Fifth Avenue.

Luther emphasized the multidirectional season ahead, noting hands-on artistry, wrap dressing, painterly prints, and the return of the shirt, whether embroidered, pleated or self-belted. There also will be a preponderance of white, as a centerpiece to fashion’s “clean-up mode.” Makeup artist Pat McGrath exaggerated the lip line and thickened the brows at Prada; while Gordon Espinet of M-A-C said, “The skin is the thing, with faces with a fresh and rich hydrated glow and a hint of intelligent bronzing.”

CEW Beauty Series Highlights Multicultural Marketing

Cosmetic Executive Women welcomed Jeanne Matson, general manager, Procter & Gamble NA Professional Products, and Candace Matthews, president, Softsheen-Carson, to address the theme of Multi-Cultural Marketing: The New Wave in Hair Care. The series hosts an array of beauty industry professionals, and this event addressed both the business and nuances of the multicultural market. “I learned that it doesn’t really matter what women look like, it’s about making them feel beautiful,” said Matson. “People who run a brand image well, do not veer from it,” added Matthews.

“The ethnic business is a huge growth driver,” said Matson, noting that for African-American customers, reassurance of damage control and customization for customers are particularly important. “Education is a very important component. Seventy percent of African-American women relax their hair, so (manufacturers) need to work with retailers to merchandise their products properly.”

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