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In Depth and In Focus at in-cosmetics

Posted: April 30, 2009

Report courtesy of Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine.

Although the aisles of the New Munich Trade Fair Centre in Munich, Germany, were less crowded for in-cosmetics 2009, attendees were more focused, driven and dedicated to their goal of absorbing information about cosmetic formulating in the 21st century.

As attendees swarmed in to the event’s gates on April 21, 2009, they were greeted with traditional alphorn players. Afterward, various members of the press gathered in the international guest reception room for a panel discussion on the impact of the global economic turmoil on the beauty industry.

The panel discussion was led by Heide Hildebrand, head of beauty and health at InStyle Germany. Panel members also included Sian Sutherland, co-founder of Mamma Mio; Nicole Stollenwerk, partner at KPMG Cologne; and Richard Hesk, group exhibition director for in-cosmetics. The members had a number of insights into the current state of the beauty care market. According to Stollenwerk, although the body care market is quite flat with a gain of only 2% in 2008, decorative cosmetics has seen a large growth with a 7% gain in 2008. She added, “75% of consumers say they are not cutting down while 25% of consumers will shop more. However, many consumers report they will become more price sensitive.” Hesk added that while the market is flat, there seems to be optimism in the ingredients market as there has been growth in the end of 2008. Sutherland found that the recession is an opportunity for small brands to grab market share as being nimble is necessary in a recession. Sutherland advised product manufacturers to stop thinking as a brand and start thinking as a woman. For 2009, she encouraged brands to question everything, to innovate, to be realistic and to, above all, be transparent. Stollenwerk added that naturals will become increasingly popular in 2009 and Sutherland agreed, adding that wellness goes up in times of a recession. “This is a time of foundation, as women want flawless complexions,” added Sutherland. In terms of retail channels, Sutherland’s online business has been growing, and she believes that brick-and-mortar retail is going to suffer. Stollenwerk agreed, adding that products purchased though home shopping networks is growing in popularity.

The education at the exhibition continued with in-focus 3d. The theme for 2009 was Designing Beauty Architecture, which was highlighted at the in-focus’ workshop program. Bruno Bernard, head of hair biology group, advanced research, life sciences direction at L’Oréal; and Frédéric Leroy, head of the department of physics, advanced research, direction of material science at L’Oréal, led the workshop titled “Architecture of Skin and Hair, for Irrefutable Proof of Efficacy in Cosmetics.”