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In Depth and In Focus at in-cosmetics

Posted: April 30, 2009

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Bernard introduced both transcriptomics and proteomics, two processes that he found complementary to study the skin. According to Bernard, “Through transcriptomics and proteomics, genuine bar codes can be assigned to skin conditions.” He added “If you want to study skin as a whole, you have to look at the living and the dead parts.” He explained that transcriptomics can assign a specific response signature to skin surface aggression in reponse to mechanical stress. Though transcriptomics, his team has discovered that old skin heals differently than young skin, and that a 25 gene signature characterizes the difference in response. Conversely, proteomics assigns a specific signature to the stratum corneum (SC). The SC is comprised of nearly 700 proteins, and this process can identify protein signatures specific to young and old skin.

Furthering the discussion of skin structure was Leroy, who discussed two-photon microscopy. According to Leroy, “No medical imaging can reveal skin structure on a molecular level, and although biopsy could, it is too invasive.” Two-photon miscroscopy is a non-invasive biochemical analysis that provides dynamic information and three-dimensional images on a subcellular scale using infrared light. Leroy went on to express that the main advantage of the microscope is that you can look at the dermis. With infrared light, collagen and elastin shine and the third structure of the protein network is revealed. Leroy added, “You can use it in vivo to see aging in the skin, including morphological and structural changes.”

The in-focus 3d stand featured the beauty innovation of a number of raw material suppliers. At this technological exhibition, Symrise presented the architecture of a fragrance through a pyramid diagram of fragrance notes. The fragrance began with a green hazelnut accord top note followed by an edible base note and a fruity middle note. This “next generation of nonalcohol fragrance” was demonstrated through a computerized scent box that emitted the designed fragrance for attendees to smell throughout the presentation. The company also demonstrated its process to create pearls for a personal care product in which a microemulsion was dropped into water. For Croda’s presentation at in-focus, it was all about the lips, as it explained the structure of lipstick and lip gloss in addition to the changing structure of the lips. According to its presentation, it used three standard waxes and changed the combination of 90% oils to product different oil/wax interaction.

Continuing the innovative product discussion was Mintel at its Innovation Zone. Nica Lewis, head consultant at Mintel Beauty Innovation, held a demonstration of some of the finished products she found to be innovative. These included products that utilized textured packaging, were formulated with interesting ingredients such as pheromones, and imparted unique texture. Behind the demonstration table were a number of raw material launches displayed at the stand in addition to many innovative finished products. The categories of finished products included techno beauty, naturals, protection and antiaging. Featured products, to name a few, included Sovage’s Tummy Flatening Gel, a transdermal gel formulated to reduce abdominal fat through precise delivery of its Epidril base formulation featuring aminophylline; RevGenetics’ Sirtuin Skin, a combination of resveratrol, acetyl hexapeptide-3, palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and sodium hyaluronate to help fight the appearance of fine lines; and Chanel’s Ultra Correction Repair line, designed to firm and lessen the appearance of wrinkles.

Leading technologies for advanced skin care was not only a focus in the Innovation Zone, but also at the in-focus feature on the show floor where the topic of “3d” was explored. For example, Marie Seigneur, PhD, scientific development director for Chanel Research and Technology, described research from an architectural angle. Tensegrity is the property of skeletal structures to employ tension and compression to maximize efficiency and economy in an entity. She drew a parallel to this architectural phenomenon to the relationship between skin and bones, and how this relationship changes with aging.