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Shiseido Employs Iced Coffee-inspired Emulsion Technology

Posted: November 15, 2012

Shiseido has developed a low energy emulsifying technology inspired by the way iced coffee is produced. Rather than heating two immiscible liquids to mix with each other, the company makes a small amount of thick emulsion first and slowly thins it afterward.

Therefore, rather than combining separated oil phase and water phases, the emulsification components such as water, oil, moisturizing agents and emulsifiers are then added to water components such as humectants and water. This method, which was developed by Tsutomu Araki, a research scientist at the Shiseido's Research Center, has less liquid to heat, thereby reducing the thermal energy required for its manufacture. In addition, it reduces the energy required for high-speed stirring.

The first cosmetic product using this emulsification method, the Rosarium Rose Body Milk, took nearly one year before mass production. Research is continuing in order to apply this low-energy emulsification to various other cosmetics.

Three Fundamental Principles in LEE Application Manages Energy Issues and Significantly Reduces Processing Time

The development of grittiness in a certain cosmetic emulsion is caused not by a lack of energy input, but rather by the application of too much energy intended to solve the problem caused by a slow crystal growth. While it is true that in many emulsions, application of additional thermal and mechanical energy in the form of heating and mixing will generally reduce the average droplet size, in some formulations, it promoted supersaturation and slow crystal growth which degraded product quality.

Read more sample pages from Chapter Fourteen of Manufacturing Cosmetic Emulsions: Pragmatic Troubleshooting and Energy Conservation by T. Joseph Lin.Alluredbooks-Pragmatic Troubleshooting and Energy Conservation