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Ingredients, claims and endocrine disruptors were some of the many subjects discussed at the ninth edition of Cosmetic Valley’s Congrès Parfums & Cosmétiques on regulatory issues, held in Chartres, France, in November.
Choosing raw materials that comply with international regulations has become a very demanding process, Pascal Courtellemont, in charge of product safety at LVMH Recherche, told the audience at the Congrès Parfums & Cosmétiques. The selection of ingredients has become crucial, both for safety and commercial issues, and the global regulatory framework is imposing new criteria. In particular, the European Regulation on cosmetic products (EC No 1223/2009), which will go into effect in July 2013, puts a stronger focus on the safety assessment—notably on systemic toxicity. Data will no longer be sufficient in Europe, and the “weight of evidence” concept will become mandatory.
In parallel, Chinese regulation (“hygienic standard of cosmetic”) is making it difficult for industry players to register “novel ingredients.” Israel, Canada and Brazil, too, have adopted requirements for more data. Therefore, suppliers are now expected to provide much more data. As industry veteran Pierre Perrier of Essential Consulting noted, the world has changed over the past 15 years, and suppliers must now focus on a better balance between safety and efficacy tests when selling their ingredients.
Anne Dux, vice president of science and regulatory affairs in charge of European affairs, French Fédération des Entreprises de la Beauté (FEBEA), presented an overview of product claims allowable in the EU Regulation on Cosmetics, which will adopt a list of common criteria for claims that may be used, and will submit a report to the EU Parliament and the Council by July 2016.
Member states will then be charged with ensuring these criteria are met. In 2010, a working group was created—consisting of EU member states, industry representatives and BEUC (the European Consumers’ Organisation)—to establish the criteria.