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Science with the Glamour: Ingredients' Brand Impact

By: Abby Penning
Posted: April 4, 2012, from the April 2012 issue of GCI Magazine.

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The key is providing a means to create products that, in turn, provide a sensory experience that consumers enjoy. “Our Cetiol Sensoft is an emollient that helps beauty brands meet consumers’ demands for a sensorial and holistic product experience,” Petersen offers as an example. “Its characteristics were evaluated using different methodologies such as our Pillow Talk Method and our Objective Emotional Assessment (OEA). The Pillow Talk Method enables panelists to evaluate the sensory of a product and translate it into an objective response characterization; while applying the emollient on the forearm, they touch different types of pillows with the other hand and choose the pillow fabric that is closest to the skin feel (e.g., silky, velvety, etc.). With the help of OEA, an approach based on the measurement of subjective and psychophysiological parameters, panelists’ individual sensory perceptions of the ingredient itself and the final formulations can be confirmed.” This is a USP that can pinpoint and fulfill the specific needs of a beauty product formulation, as well as lend itself to the USP of the product itself.

In accordance with the needs of green beauty products, “Another great example is BASF’s Cetiol RLF, a fast-spreading emollient that gives products a pleasant and light skin feel,” says Petersen. “Cetiol RLF is made from 100% natural renewable feedstock and is catalyzed with enzymes. This new process helps to reduce emissions while ensuring high quality. Additionally, the emollient is approved by Ecocert, and certified by NaTrue and by the National Products Association, and recommended for concepts according to BDIH and COSMOS.” Telling a green product story is more important in the marketplace today, and ingredients with green certifications help that story hit home with consumers. “Cetiol RLF helps to satisfy the needs of consumers with both sensitive skin and the desire for products of natural origin,” Petersen notes. “Its mildness, along with its hydrating effect and the light skin feel, can enhance people’s sense of well-being.” A story of heightened well-being is one any beauty brand would want to tell.

“Many beauty brands have developed a keen interest in natural-based products and products that contribute to a sustainability theme,” acknowledges Jeff Rogers, business director Americas, AkzoNobel. “We are conducting a significant amount of activity around product life cycle analysis to better help our customers understand how to communicate the value of this activity to the consumers.” However, many other ingredient stories are also possible. “There is a focus today on meeting options. Options can offer a higher level of flexibility when it comes to product position for a consumer brand,” Rogers notes.

The effectiveness of a quality ingredient is another important product talking point option. “Kinetin has long been the key ingredient in Kinerase, the parent brand of Dr. LeWinn by Kinerase,” says Wittenberg. “Kinetin is known for its antioxidant activity, its ability to target the signs of aging, and its extremely gentle nature. We wanted to make this clinically proven ingredient accessible to more people because we know it works.”

And Eufora’s Bewley explains, “Utilizing certified organic aloe was a way for Eufora to provide a unique point of difference for our brand. Plus, aloe has been proven to have amazing results, including positive healing and soothing benefits. Utilizing aloe in our brand wasn’t just a way to differentiate Eufora from the rest—it meant that our products produce real results.”