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Re-energizing the Beauty Business With Novel Ingredients

By: Lisa Doyle
Posted: August 28, 2012, from the September 2012 issue of GCI Magazine.

A vast majority of today’s consumers fall on far ends of the beauty spectrum—either seeking organic, sustainably sourced products that are as close to nature as possible or looking for the absolute latest and greatest in technology, with the newest scientific innovations utilized in the products’ development. Whatever the target market, beauty product developers are seeking out the ingredients that meet their needs, and suppliers and ingredient developers are providing the back stories on how these formulations come to fruition. Learn how these novel ingredients and the technology behind them are uncovering new opportunities and re-energizing the beauty business.

Naturals With a Twist

Plant-based and sustainably sourced ingredients are nothing new, and even may be expected by many of today’s consumers, but a forward-thinking beauty brand will put a great deal of thought into which naturals will appeal to its target markets and why.

Mode Cosmetics, a New York-based beauty brand, highlights its PotentNaturals, the company’s highly concentrated natural ingredients found in each of its product. “The launch of our Mode Natural Skin High Performance Hydrating Foundation features our PotentNaturals chardonnay and blueberry fruit extracts,” says Mode co-founder Jennifer Isaac. “Our approach with this product was to focus on the benefit of the ingredients while targeting different market segments. Chardonnay, which is a unique ingredient to color cosmetics, is tailored toward the anti-aging market, while blueberry keeps the product young and fresh to equally attract the youth market. Our goal was to tell more than one story to different segments while speaking directly to each demographic’s specific needs and issues.”

Also delivering upon the eco-friendly factor, Evonik Industries’ Tego Feel Green, a natural cellulose particle from renewable sources, is an odorless soft white powder that provides homogenous texture in a formulation, increases absorption and provides a matte finish to the skin without the shine. “This more even skin tone is desirable for all types of makeup,” says Anna Howe, applied technology manager, personal care North America, Evonik. “This completely new chemistry is an unmodified cellulose particle that can be used at 0.3–3% in emulsions. That low use level can give our customers a major cost advantage.”

And green ingredients are reinvigorating the hair care market, as well. The Plantasil line from BASF is made up of silicone-free actives for hair care, including Plantasil Micro, a transparent microemulsion based on renewable raw materials. According to BASF, the Plantasil Micro conditioning agent is a blended surfactant-oil system that can help deliver the conditioning performance of similar shampoos made with silicones when the ingredient is combined with cationics.

For the ethnic hair care market, BASF introduced Plantasil Relaxcare. “This innovative new product is based on a new technology that strengthens and reduces damage to hair during treatment without compromising the straightening efficacy,” says Laura Partynski, marketing communications manager, BASF.

Ahead of Its Time

Launching an ingredient that can improve a beauty product is great, but providing the proof to measure the improvement is even better. Croda has accomplished both recently through its VibraRiche technology, and the accompanying Hair Color Vibrance Factor, which is a test methodology that demonstrates that hair vibrance is a combination of shine and depth of color that can be quantified.