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Re-energizing the Beauty Business With Novel Ingredients

By: Lisa Doyle
Posted: August 28, 2012, from the September 2012 issue of GCI Magazine.

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“Since VibraRiche is a quaternary ammonium compound and substantive to the hair, it leaves the hair feeling soft, nourished and supremely conditioned—all while sharpening the color of the hair,” explains Regan Tillou, marketing manager, hair care, Croda. “Vibrancy is a claim concept that could not be quantified easily before this test methodology. Now customers can quantify vibrancy and claim a vibrance factor on their packaging, much like an SPF rating, to show how well the product works on boosting shine and color.”

The innovations are equally evident on the skin care side of the beauty industry. Catering to consumers who want both eco-friendly products with high-tech performance is AkzoNobel Global Personal Care via its patented Zeta Fraction technology, which selectively isolates intracellular components from living plants and marine sources to produce a wider range of bioactive cosmetic ingredients able to capture the synergy that exists within plant cells. “This process is completely solvent-free—not even water is added—and 100% of the plant is utilized,” explains Maria Tolchinsky, global marketing manager for the global personal care business of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry. “Zeta Fraction technology represents an improvement over chemical and supercritical extraction methods and yields a more potent plant-derived ingredient.” For example, the technology was used in the company’s Recentia CS plant serum fraction for skin care and sun care applications (see, Hot in Sun Care).

Also reinvigorating skin care, the Acqua Pelle fluid skin-balancing technology from Presperse, a liquid hydrogel, features a unique visco-elastic texture, creating polymeric memory and delivering instant hydration. Salt-activated and pH-tolerant, in addition to skin care systems, it can be used in hair care, clear gel systems and color cosmetics.

Telling the Story

Educating the public about these innovations is key to their success. And, it’s worth noting that it’s not only up to the brands to convey the stories behind these ingredients to the consumers—suppliers can successfully connect with the public as well. The BASF Personal Care business recently launched its Care Creations brand, touting the tagline, “Inspired by Life.” Its user-friendly website educates both potential clients and consumers about the company’s products in a clear manner, and it features videos, attractive photography, and clear information about what the ingredients can do.

“Customers want to learn and understand the story behind a product and the benefits of the ingredients and from where they originate. We convey this message to our customers through highlighting the PotentNaturals ingredients directly on our packaging, and with informative marketing material describing the key benefits and story behind the ingredients, including our website, so in turn, customers have the knowledge about ingredients they may have never been aware of before,” explains Cristina Samuels, co-founder of Mode and GCI advisor. “It is very important that the customer relates to the products; there has to be a real connection where the message strikes at an emotional level.”

Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI magazine and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has appeared in Skin Inc. magazine, Salon Today, America’s Best, Renew and Modern Salon.