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Beauty Ingredient Innovations and Trends
By: Joshua Hashim
Posted: March 25, 2014, from the April 2014 issue of GCI Magazine.
- Trends that were hot in beauty in 2013—multifunctionality, anti-aging and natural ingredients—are continuing their influence into 2014 with new tweaks.
- For 2014, some of the top beauty trends include hydrating ingredients in products for skin and hair, as well as vivid colors in cosmetics and more options for men’s personal care products.
- Products that combine these trends, as well as feed consumer demand in multiple innovative ways, continue to push the envelope in beauty product development, encouraging brands and product developers to always seek the next big thing.
Worldwide, consumers spend more than $120 billion per year on household and personal care products1, and these numbers are growing. In fact, in November 2013, Lucintel estimated the beauty and personal care industry will reach $630 billion by 2017. With this level of projected growth, it’s no surprise beauty brands, manufacturers and suppliers are closely monitoring consumer trends for a piece of the market.
Of course, there is a constantly changing landscape of consumer preferences in the beauty industry, and consequently, brands continually have to track shifting targets in order to meet demand. During 2013, multifunctional products offering UV protection and anti-aging benefits were in, as were products featuring natural ingredients. And while these trends will continue to evolve in 2014, also expect to see increased demand for hydrating ingredients, new vibrant makeup colors, and men’s personal care products.
Tried and True: 2013 Trends
For the past two years, beauty products offering multiple benefits have been in high demand, with busy, cash-strapped consumers looking for streamlined solutions. As a result, there has been an increased focus on creating products that perform at least two functions—if not three or four. The rapid growth in the popularity of BB and CC creams are just one example of this trend in action.
UV protection is one of the key benefits consumers often look for in multifunctional products, with 46% of consumers in 2013 asking for makeup that provides all-day sun protection.2 For a population increasingly concerned with skin cancer and preventing signs of aging, the incorporation of UV absorbers has grown from just typical sunscreens to a wide variety of sprays, lotions, makeups, serums, creams and gels—even into hair products.
To bring UV protection to a variety of products, product developers and formulators are challenged to blend water resistance, texture, absorption and long-lasting protection while increasing SPF, and new, innovative ingredients have been critical in this challenge. For example, certain SPF enhancers like Dow Corning (DC) FA 4002 ID Silicone Acrylate are film formers that are compatible with organic UV absorbers and pigments, which significantly increases the base SPF in consumer products. It is likely we’ll see continued demand for UV absorbers and SPF protection in a range of products.
A more youthful appearance is another thing consumers today are actively seeking, with a preference for beauty products that address multiple signs of aging—from wrinkles to hyperpigmentation, dryness and sun damage.
Thus, beauty brands are looking for ingredients to make anti-aging products that address a wide range of concerns, including moisturization and hydration, as well as incorporating antioxidants, vitamins and minerals. To address these demands, supplier companies have focused on developing innovative, multifunctional anti-aging product solutions. Among the new formulation offerings from Univar, for example, is a rejuvenating eye cream that incorporates multiple skin nourishing and moisturizing ingredients and features, including Aquamax LM to retain the endogenous hyaluronic acid—a natural moisturizer in the skin—while decreasing redness from UV exposure.
To also address the rapidly growing anti-aging market, new areas of interest, such as anti-aging hair care, have emerged. Lately, the hair care industry has been taking a cue from skin care, offering specialized products like CC and BB creams, hydrating lotions and serums to prevent signs of aging such as dull color, brittleness, dryness and frizz. And although the broader market for anti-aging has become increasingly competitive and saturated, innovation in this space is continuing. Some of the new products emerging in hair care include milder cleansing through sulfate-free systems, robust conditioning focused around newer silicone conditioning technology, UV-enhanced leave-in conditioners, and multifunctional styling aides such as anti-frizz and shine enhancing products.
Another trend, consumer demand for natural products continues to grow, challenging product developers to keep pace and find new ingredients that are natural while still providing the same results consumers expect from synthetic ingredients. To meet this demand, manufacturers are innovating with vegetable oils and butters like sunflower and shea, and natural gums for rheology modifiers—xanthan, carrageenan and gellan gum, as examples. Active ingredients from corn or beets also are being used to derive lactic acid for beauty products.
Univar engineers also have been seeking out natural ingredients for multifunctional products. For example, CP Kelco’s natural polymer AquaMax LM is used to help retain the body’s natural hyaluronic acid, enhance the structural integrity of skin and moderate undesirable immune effects associated with photoaging. Meanwhile, Purasal MoistXS from Purac is an example of a newer natural ingredient blend that moisturizes effectively.3 This leave-on moisturizing ingredient improves transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin elasticity while also improving the sensory experience with a less tacky after-feel.
The beauty industry has made great strides in natural products, but there still is opportunity for innovation here. The cost of natural ingredients often exceeds synthetics, creating challenges for product developers tasked with keeping costs down. Natural products also can be very chemically complex, and extensive testing must be done to determine any toxicological issues and to identify allergens. Achieving the same functionality, feel and aesthetic as products with synthetic ingredients often requires a combination of natural ingredients, further challenging formulators and product developers.
On the Horizon: 2014 Trends
While trends for multifunctional, anti-aging and natural products seem poised to continue, there are a few new trends on the horizon that are likely to emerge in 2014, including hydration, vibrant lip color and men’s personal care.
The Skin Care Ingredient Handbook is so much more than an ingredient dictionary for the skin care industry. This book is useful to the cosmetic formulator to hone in on skin care trends for ethnic skin, scalp and hair products plus offers insight into BB creams, suncreens; active versus functional ingredients, natural, organic, and synthetic ingredients; OTC drugs; INCI names, antioxidants and DNA and how to read labels. Did we mention the newest ingredients are listed?
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