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Looking to in-cosmetics, New Facilities, New Approvals and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Early March 2013

On behalf of Vantage Specialty Chemicals, Lipo Chemicals announced the opening of a new location. An office in Mumbai, India, has been created in response to the demand of its multinational customers and growing personal care and beauty markets in India. The office, named Vantage Specialty Ingredients PVT Ltd, further increases Lipo’s global reach and will expand its commitment to developing and delivering an array of ingredients to the marketplace, including products from Arkema, Micro Powders, Ineos, St. Gobain and Desert Whale Jojoba. Also, Vantage Specialty Chemicals appointed Vivek Kadam as general manager of Vantage Specialty Ingredients PVT Ltd. Kadam has more than 15 years of experience in the beauty and pharmaceutical industries. His familiarity with the industry will complement his management style and allow him to operate the India office while working closely with customers and distributors to establish our business in India.

Skin care, surface care, hair care and bar soap cleansing were all hot topics of conversation at Lubrizol Personal and Home Care’s stand at the Home and Personal Care Ingredients Exhibition & Conference India (HPCi) at the Bombay Exhibition Center, which took place February 28–March 1, 2013. The company’s team delivered two technical presentations, including "Using a Cationic Polymer Combination to Achieve Optimal Conditioning Performance" by Malte Ruffing, as well as showcased new products and solutions from its personal and home care business. These included Lubrizol’s "Beauty in the Digital Age" consumer trends presentation; its Merquat polymers in soap bars that help provide enhanced conditioning, fairness creams with Novemer EC-2 polymer that exhibit enhanced aesthetics and sensory with TiO2 in high stearic acid emulsions; and shampoo formulations with the Merquat 2003PR polymer delivering color protection and care.

Additionally, Lubrizol conducted a groundbreaking ceremony for its new building at the company’s Bowling Green, Ohio, facility. The Bowling Green plant expansion will enable the company to remain at the forefront of surfactants manufacturing technology, ensuring it is equipped to meet industry trends for customers of its personal and home care business. The estimated investment in the new building is $11 million, and it will add 60,000 square feet to the facility. Designed to include new process equipment for surfactants as well as four finished goods storage tanks, the new building also will have space to accommodate two additional finished goods storage tanks for future expansion needs.

Sabinsa is marking the company’s 25th anniversary, recognizing the occasion with customers, colleagues and friends. The celebration began with cake and champagne at Sabinsa’s booth at the Engredea/Natural Products Expo West in Anaheim, California.

Silab has obtained COSMOS certification for five of its ingredient products from its catalogue—Oslift Bio, Sensiline Bio, Glyco-Repair Bio, Structurine Bio and Vitanol Bio.

Clariant announced its new EcoTain approach to sustainable innovation. EcoTain represents a systematic approach to sustainable innovation by providing a tangible means of understanding the ecological, economic and social impact of Clariant’s products over the entire value chain. It also supports companies working to achieve sustainability targets. The four-step life cycle of the approach addresses sustainable design, responsible process, safe and efficient use, and eco integration. The benefits at a specific lifecycle phase are illustrated by product examples Synergen GL5, Hostacerin SFO, Texcare SRA 300 F, and Safewing MP I 1938 ECO.

As part of its new strategic relationship with Van Horn, Metz & Company (VHM), Impact Colors is developing the way for new business development. VHM provides raw materials for industrial use and has a distribution network of 12 warehouses and six sales offices located throughout the Mid-Atlantic, Northeast, South, and Ohio Valley regions and will help Impact Colors create new business relationships and maintain and enhance current relationships. Impact Colors also has a new office location at 201 East Elm St., Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, 19428.

Arizona Chemical broke ground on its newest Science & Technology Center in Savannah, Georgia. The 27,000-square-foot facility is scheduled to open in December 2013, and is expected to cost $10 million to build. The Savannah S&T center will be home to Arizona Chemical’s U.S. research and development activities and will replace the company’s existing research facility in Savannah. When complete, the new center will be home to more than 50 scientists and support staff focused on developing bio-based solutions for the Arizona Chemical’s customers.

The Chinese State Food and Drug Administration (SFDA) has approved Symrise’s SymWhite 377 as an ingredient for cosmetic applications, owed largely to the high purity of Symrise patented material and an extensive safety and toxicology profile. SymWhite 377 can improve the appearance of dull complexions, promote clarity and brightness, and provide a more skin tone. Further, it can also diminish the appearance of dark facial hair, and its applications include face creams, BB creams, anti-dark spot cream for hands, post depilatory creams, deodorants and more.

In an effort to meet market demand for innovative products, Pak Lab is piloting a co-branding program reserved for carefully selected partners, in which qualified investors with either marketing expertise or distribution power could count on Pak Lab to develop a line of products for them and offer manufacturing support with the benefit of direct pricing.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients, a commercial unit of Ashland Inc., is increasing the price of its portfolio of intermediates and specialty solvents sold in Europe effective April 1, or as contracts allow. Prices for 1,4 Butanediol (BDO) and its derivatives Tetrahydrofuran (THF), N-Methyl-2-Pyrrolidone (NMP) and Gamma-Butyrolactone (BLO) will increase by €100/metric ton.

Sumitomo Corporation, Sumitomo Corporation of America and Sumitomo Corporation do Brasil S.A. entered an agreement to form a joint cosmetic ingredient distribution business with Brazil’s Cosmotec Especialidades Quimicas Ltda. Cosmotec will spin off its cosmetic ingredient distribution business into a separate company, in which Sumitomo Corporation Group, which owns ingredient distribution company Presperse, will be an investor. Cosmotec sells ingredients and developed formulas to major Brazilian cosmetic manufacturers. Sumitomo Corporation will work closely with Presperse and Cosmotec to leverage new global procurement capabilities with the goal of expanding their business throughout South America and further developing the cosmetic and personal care market worldwide.

Symrise achieved the highest sales and earnings figures in its company history in fiscal year 2012. The company increased sales to € 1,735 million (2011: € 1,584 million), which represents an increase by 10 % (at local currency: 6 %) compared to the previous year.

New Launches

Half natural, half nature-identical, schülke launched Sensiva PA 30 as a protection for beauty formulations. Nature-identical materials take inspiration from nature, yet provide the more consistent efficacy of a synthetic material. Sensiva PA 30 combines the antimicrobial activity of two nature-identical fragrance ingredients that are active against spoilage- and odor-causing germs, with the boosting and skin care properties of a naturally derived emollient. With Sensiva PA 30, Schülke has developed a nature-inspired multifunctional cosmetic additive that is ideal protection for leave-on, wet wipe and sensitive applications.

Lonza Personal Care is set to launch new ingredients at in-cosmetics 2013. Among them is ProSynergen DF, an innovation in dual fermentation that addresses the concerns of compromised skin. This active results from the fermentation of two microbes grown simultaneously, creating a competitive environment for survival. Because skin is the body’s first line of defense against any physical or chemical assault, strengthening barrier function is the primary means to improve compromised skin, and by protecting the barrier, ProSynergen DF improves the look of compromised skin and reduces the appearance of signs of premature aging.

Natrulon GPS 341 is another new launch from Lonza Personal Care. The green ingredient, which offers multiple functions beauty formulations, can be added as a natural fragrance in order to enhance the aroma of a product. In addition to this benefit, there is a secondary effect where the ingredient in this blend imparts a broad spectrum antimicrobial effect in the product. With these elements, Natrulon GPS 341 is a unique offering that meets the multiple needs of product developers by acting as a multifunctional cosmetic ingredient at normal concentration levels.

Grant Industries released Gransil NYKT-P, a new patent pending hair care technology designed for straightening, styling and anti-frizz applications. Based on consumer-friendly silicone chemistry, Gransil NYKT-P is 100% formaldehyde-free, and a demonstration video on Gransil NYKT-P can be viewed here.

Also introduced from Grant Industries are Gransil SiW-066 and Gransil VX-409, two new silicone materials designed for enhanced sensory aesthetics in water-based applications. Gransil SiW-066 is an easy to formulate, process-friendly micro-dispersion of silicone-in-water with an outer aqueous design that allows silicone elastomers to easily be added to the water-phase of formulations with no heat required. It works well for cold processing where elegant products can be created with simple mixing. Applications include skin care, color cosmetics, body car, and sun care. And Gransil VX-409 offers 100% water-solubility for use in toners, light lotions, serums, and wipe applications. Gransil VX-409 is an easy cold process addition for water-based formulations requiring a silicone feel.

Delivering on the promise of greater sustainability for itself and for its customers is the main focus of AkzoNobel Global Personal Care, and the fruits of that commitment—a range of innovative products and technologies for hair styling, skin care and hair care—will be showcased at in-cosmetics 2013 These will include BioStyle CGP, a fixative polymer designed for application in hair styling products for more natural, clear gels; Structure Style polymer, a non-GMO starch-based film former and rheology modifier that provides both thickening and hold with the potential for savings; ArmoCare VGH-70, a vegetable-based di-ester quaternary developed to meet the needs required of a hair conditioning active; Dry-Flo TS, a modified tapioca starch that may be used to enhance the aesthetics of a variety of skin care products; and Structure Cel polymers, cellulose derivatives that can be used effectively in a variety of beauty systems as multifunctional thickeners, texture modifiers, emulsion stabilizers, and rheology modifiers.

Lipotec introduced a marine-derived active that reduces the appearance of aging called Seacode. This ingredient joins the company's Biointec line of biotechnology derived actives and is designed to enhance the synthesis of essential dermal proteins such as collagen I to increase firmness and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. The active contains extracellular polymeric substances (ECPS) that have been bioprocessed from Pseudoalteromonas bacteria, and it is recommended in rejuvenating skin formulations for all ages and skin types.

Gelest is marking its first appearance at in-cosmetics by showcasing its innovative line of DiEthicones for sunscreen, foundation, mascara, and lip products. Gelest DiEthicones offer the desired feel of traditional dimethicones, but also broader organic compatibility and superior wetting of inorganic pigments. They also offer excellent spreading, gas permeability, water resistance, lubricity and the ability to reduce tack. Their increased compatibility allows coated pigments to disperse more readily in organic vehicles and formulations with many common cosmetic raw materials, including hydrocarbons, esters, waxes and surfactants.

Evonik Industries developed a new polyfunctional silicone-based W/O emulsifier with high molecular weight. Abil EM 180 silicone emulsifier can provide superior performance with enhanced stabilization properties. It can be utilized as a single emulsifier at use levels down to 0.5% and can maintain stability at high storage temperatures up to 70°.

Ashland Care Specialties launched Skin’s Ecology, an initiative in support of new products that help normalize microflora on the surface of skin. The skin’s natural probiotic defenses are supported by antimicrobial peptides and are essential in the skin’s ongoing fight against undesirable microorganisms. Ashland will show how a biofunctional ingredient based on flax seed may be used to support cathelicidin and β-defensin antimicrobial peptides, an important class of biological peptides necessary to maintain a proper ecosystem balance on skin. Managing the microflora on skin by eliciting beneficial probiotic effects is a promising area of skin care research. The Skin’s Ecology initiative brings biologists from Ashland’s skin research together with formulation and consumer science professionals to help skin care product makers commercialize new innovations that address the microflora ecology on the skin surface, including day or night formulations, formulations to address sensitive skin, formulations to soothe skin and formulations based on probiotic effects, among other concepts.

Water-resistant and cost-optimized formulations with very high sun protection factors and sensory advantages are a leading trend in sunscreen products, and Bayer MaterialScience is introducing these trends to the global professional public at in-cosmetics in Paris in April. The company's cosmetics team is presenting formulations based on the film-forming dispersion Baycusan C 1000. The dispersion is well suited to modern oil-in-water sunscreen formulations because it acts as a stabilizer in such systems. The film-forming agent can be used with or without emulsifiers, and this prevents re-emulsification under the influence of water. Thus, the products largely retain their protective effect. What is more, they display high water resistance. Baycusan C 1000 also forms a flexible, non-occlusive film that moves in accord with the skin and enables a naturally soft, non-sticky skin feel.

Soliance is debuting new ingredients at the 2013 in-cosmetics in Paris— Glossyliance, a shine hair care ingredient; Sophogreen, a green solubilizer; and Appygreen 812, a sustainable surfactant. Using a combination of white and green technologies, Glossyliance is a shine active ingredient composed of extracts of sugar cane and lemon zest obtained with a mix of alpha hydroxy acids. Also, plant-based solubilizer Sophogreen is produced from fully natural, locally produced raw materials as an alternative to petroleum-based solubilizers. It also contains a high concentration of sophorolipids. And Appygreen 812, a mild and ecological surfactant, was created as a plant-based formulation booster that improves cleaning and increases the viscosity and foam volume of formulations. The polar head of Appygreen 812 is obtained from non-digestible sugars from hemicellulose.

People News

Steinberg & Associates, Inc. announced Michelle Desrosiers has joined the company as a senior regulatory consultant. After graduating from Central Connecticut State University, Desrosiers worked at IBM, focusing on 5s, Training Within Industry and GMP. In 2009, she joined Autumn Harp, Inc., a turnkey cosmetic manufacturer in Vermont, and for the last four years worked to develop a rigorous regulatory review program. This guidance helps to advise the company's clients in FDA compliance and drug/OTC product registration, SPF New Rule adherence, Health Canada Regulations and EU Regulations. Michelle also prepared the company for NSF/305 Standard certifications and audits, and reviewed USDA Organic and NPA certification compliance. Because of ever-increasing demands for regulatory advice, the addition of Desrosiers will allow Steinberg & Associates to better service clients, including being able to offer U.S. OTC electronic drug registrations.

Azelis Canada named Tony Craske as its new managing director. In the role, Craske will further build upon Azelis Canada’s growth achieved within the pharmaceutical, food and personal care industries, expecting to help add a global perspective to the company’s Canadian opertions through strong project and supplier relationship management. He will aim to maximize synergies, exploit new market sectors, and build upon the overall Azelis approach to chemical distribution, with a focus on specialty business development and first-class customer service.

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