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Looking to in-cosmetics, New Facilities, New Approvals and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Early March 2013

Posted: March 12, 2013

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Gelest is marking its first appearance at in-cosmetics by showcasing its innovative line of DiEthicones for sunscreen, foundation, mascara, and lip products. Gelest DiEthicones offer the desired feel of traditional dimethicones, but also broader organic compatibility and superior wetting of inorganic pigments. They also offer excellent spreading, gas permeability, water resistance, lubricity and the ability to reduce tack. Their increased compatibility allows coated pigments to disperse more readily in organic vehicles and formulations with many common cosmetic raw materials, including hydrocarbons, esters, waxes and surfactants.

Evonik Industries developed a new polyfunctional silicone-based W/O emulsifier with high molecular weight. Abil EM 180 silicone emulsifier can provide superior performance with enhanced stabilization properties. It can be utilized as a single emulsifier at use levels down to 0.5% and can maintain stability at high storage temperatures up to 70°.

Ashland Care Specialties launched Skin’s Ecology, an initiative in support of new products that help normalize microflora on the surface of skin. The skin’s natural probiotic defenses are supported by antimicrobial peptides and are essential in the skin’s ongoing fight against undesirable microorganisms. Ashland will show how a biofunctional ingredient based on flax seed may be used to support cathelicidin and β-defensin antimicrobial peptides, an important class of biological peptides necessary to maintain a proper ecosystem balance on skin. Managing the microflora on skin by eliciting beneficial probiotic effects is a promising area of skin care research. The Skin’s Ecology initiative brings biologists from Ashland’s skin research together with formulation and consumer science professionals to help skin care product makers commercialize new innovations that address the microflora ecology on the skin surface, including day or night formulations, formulations to address sensitive skin, formulations to soothe skin and formulations based on probiotic effects, among other concepts.

Water-resistant and cost-optimized formulations with very high sun protection factors and sensory advantages are a leading trend in sunscreen products, and Bayer MaterialScience is introducing these trends to the global professional public at in-cosmetics in Paris in April. The company's cosmetics team is presenting formulations based on the film-forming dispersion Baycusan C 1000. The dispersion is well suited to modern oil-in-water sunscreen formulations because it acts as a stabilizer in such systems. The film-forming agent can be used with or without emulsifiers, and this prevents re-emulsification under the influence of water. Thus, the products largely retain their protective effect. What is more, they display high water resistance. Baycusan C 1000 also forms a flexible, non-occlusive film that moves in accord with the skin and enables a naturally soft, non-sticky skin feel.

Soliance is debuting new ingredients at the 2013 in-cosmetics in Paris— Glossyliance, a shine hair care ingredient; Sophogreen, a green solubilizer; and Appygreen 812, a sustainable surfactant. Using a combination of white and green technologies, Glossyliance is a shine active ingredient composed of extracts of sugar cane and lemon zest obtained with a mix of alpha hydroxy acids. Also, plant-based solubilizer Sophogreen is produced from fully natural, locally produced raw materials as an alternative to petroleum-based solubilizers. It also contains a high concentration of sophorolipids. And Appygreen 812, a mild and ecological surfactant, was created as a plant-based formulation booster that improves cleaning and increases the viscosity and foam volume of formulations. The polar head of Appygreen 812 is obtained from non-digestible sugars from hemicellulose.

People News

Steinberg & Associates, Inc. announced Michelle Desrosiers has joined the company as a senior regulatory consultant. After graduating from Central Connecticut State University, Desrosiers worked at IBM, focusing on 5s, Training Within Industry and GMP. In 2009, she joined Autumn Harp, Inc., a turnkey cosmetic manufacturer in Vermont, and for the last four years worked to develop a rigorous regulatory review program. This guidance helps to advise the company's clients in FDA compliance and drug/OTC product registration, SPF New Rule adherence, Health Canada Regulations and EU Regulations. Michelle also prepared the company for NSF/305 Standard certifications and audits, and reviewed USDA Organic and NPA certification compliance. Because of ever-increasing demands for regulatory advice, the addition of Desrosiers will allow Steinberg & Associates to better service clients, including being able to offer U.S. OTC electronic drug registrations.

Azelis Canada named Tony Craske as its new managing director. In the role, Craske will further build upon Azelis Canada’s growth achieved within the pharmaceutical, food and personal care industries, expecting to help add a global perspective to the company’s Canadian opertions through strong project and supplier relationship management. He will aim to maximize synergies, exploit new market sectors, and build upon the overall Azelis approach to chemical distribution, with a focus on specialty business development and first-class customer service.