March Insider Insights: Sun Care Ingredients & Trends + Packaging for Beauty Launches

Brands are exploring different formats and textures for SPF products.

Global Cosmetic Industry recently spoke with beauty insiders to highlight sun care ingredient launches and trends, as well as trends and launches in the color cosmetic and packaging for beauty space.

What's New in Sun Care

Zinc Oxide Takeover

Kevin Cureton, COO, Solésence Beauty Science, says, “The biggest trend we are seeing in sun care ingredients is that mineral SPF, specifically zinc oxide, has overtaken all chemical SPF actives in new product launches for the second year in a row (2022-23) in the United States, according to data from Mintel. At Solésence, we see this trend being driven by a greater consumer awareness and interest in ingredients and desire for products that are better for both humans and the environment. According to Mintel, 87% of consumers say they do some kind of research on ingredients. Zinc oxide is the only globally approved, broad-spectrum sunscreen active that is considered both clean in the beauty industry and effective against UVA. Chemical sunscreens, while offering protection, pose risks both to the environment and to human health, potentially contributing to the bleaching of coral reefs and having been cited by the FDA and others as potential endocrine disruptors.”

Scott Cardinali, business manager, sun care, Hallstar Beauty, says, “Formulators are increasingly looking to metal oxides, especially zinc oxide, to deliver UV protection amidst the uncertainty associated with various bans and regulatory restrictions on a growing number of organic UV filters. However, consumer interests in “greener” sun care products are driving not only a shift from organic UV filters to inorganic UV filters but also are driving interest in more natural yet efficacious inactive ingredients in sun care formulations.”

Cardinali continues, “HallBrite ZDX Clear, an easy-to-use 68% zinc oxide dispersion, meets the needs of formulators who are seeking a broad spectrum inorganic UV filter that can deliver high SPF while minimizing the unwanted whitish cast associated with ZnO filters. The inactive components of HallBrite ZDX Clear are optimized for both high SPF delivery and excellent sensory aesthetics. The high level of transparency also ensures excellent appearance and aesthetics on a broader range of skin tones.”

Multifunctional Formulations

Cureton says, “In addition to the safety of ingredients, the skinification trend of makeup and body products is also driving consumer interest in ingredients; 78% of consumers report being interested in skin protection products with additional skin care benefits. Consumers expect their SPF products to also provide skin care benefits like anti-aging and moisturization claims and include hero ingredients like vitamin C, niacinamide and squalane, among others. Products must also contribute to a consumers’ overall sense of wellness by bringing a joyful user experience. Solésence’s recent experience supports this trend as new and existing brand partners turn to us to add or expand their offerings of mineral SPF products to address consumer preferences.”

Cureton adds, “We are also seeing an increase in consumers wearing daily SPF, in fact 57 % of consumers report wearing skin care products with SPF year-round. Along with that, we’re also seeing an increase in SPF products designed to target a specific region of the face or body and 73% of consumers report being interested in trying specialty skin care with SPF and 37% are willing pay more for it. In response to this, brands are incorporating SPF into color cosmetics, as well as region specific skin care and body products such as eye creams, blushes and lip products. In the past year, we’ve helped brands launch color lip and cheek products with mineral SPF and we’re currently developing eye and scalp products that include SPF claims. We expect this trend to continue in 2024 and beyond as the skinification trend of makeup and body products stays strong.”

Hannah Cwienkala, marketing manager—sun and skin care, North America, BASF, says, “As we enter 2024, we continue to see the blurring of lines between sun care and skin care. Consumers are looking for multifunctional benefits that allow them to simplify their routines, using less products that are each jam-packed with benefits. These benefits can come in the form of moisturization, additional skin protection such as skin barrier support and protection from external aggressors. We are also seeing consumers request the benefit of unique, fun, and pleasant sensory. Consumers not only want to be wowed by products’ functional benefits, but they are also looking for surprising and enjoyable sensory experiences that will encourage regular use.”

Cwienkala adds, “The industry is tackling this trend by focusing on sunscreen aesthetics more than ever before as the margin for error is very small. Long gone are the days of sticky, messy formulas. For BASF, this means targeting our best functional ingredients to support the aesthetics and finding the best combinations of UV filters and cosmetic actives to balance effective sun protection with elegant textures, while adding skin care benefits to create holistic formula examples.”

Cwienkala continues, “At BASF we have a broad portfolio of offerings for sun care formulations. In addition to our Z-Cote portfolio of Zinc Oxide powders and dispersions, we also have many emulsifiers, emollients, and biopolymers that help create effective and aesthetically pleasing sunscreens. In 2023, we launched Emulgade Verde 10MS, a naturally derived, non-ethoxylated, O/W emulsifier that works well in sun care formulations. It performs very well compared to EO-based emulsifiers and enables easy distribution on the skin as well as pleasant sensory, which we know is especially important for sunscreens. It can be difficult to find the best balance between effective protection and an enjoyable sensorial experience, which is why BASF expert formulators have tested countless combinations of UV filters, chassis ingredients, and cosmetic actives to find the best balance. Visit our Care Creations website to learn more about ‘Better Together’ ingredient combinations to create unique and effective sunscreens.”

BASF's Emulgade Verde 10MS, a naturally derived, non-ethoxylated, O/W emulsifier that works well in sun care formulations.

Brian Grady, senior marketing specialist, DSM-Firmenich, says, “Skin care-focused innovation has also taken a notable step toward better emphasizing suitability for melanated skin and all skin tones, aligning with the skinclusive trend. This trend is further highlighted by a significant increase in discussions about the ‘white cast’ phenomenon on platforms like Instagram, experiencing a 3.6 percentage point YoY rise in 2022.”

Grady continues, “DSM-Firmenich is poised to make a significant breakthrough in sun care technology with the impending launch of Parsol Shield (bemotrizinol), the first UV filter to be introduced in the U.S. market in over 20 years. Awaiting GRASE approval, Parsol Shield represents a major advancement in the US UV market. It’s not just about bringing a new product to market; it's about redefining sun protection standards. Parasol Shield is the most efficient UVA-UVB filter with broad-spectrum performance, even at low levels. And notably, Parsol Shield boasts an excellent eco-profile, enabling the creation of more sustainable sunscreens and facilitating the development of formulations suitable for different skin types.”

Cardinali says, “Consumers are also looking for added skin care type benefits to be delivered from their sun protection products. More and more, daily use skin care and color cosmetic products claim SPF and many new sun care products claim additional benefits such as anti-photoaging and blue light protection. This hybridization of skin care and sun care products is driving interest in ingredients that can deliver multifunctional benefits.”

Cardinali continues, “Hallstar Beauty’s launch of the SolaPure Glo emollient is well-positioned to address consumer interest in natural ingredients that can enhance sun protection efficacy while also delivering additional benefits to the skin. COSMOS-approved SolaPure Glo is inspired by the wellness benefits of turmeric. It has been proven to offer anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and skin pigmentation benefits. Furthermore, its use in sun protection products can significantly enhance the efficacy of both organic- and inorganic-based UV filter systems. Formulation textures and aesthetics can also benefit from SolaPure Glo, making it an effective and efficient ingredient for naturally positioned sun care products.”

Product Formats

Grady says, “To meet the growing demand for convenient sunscreen and encourage individuals to diversify their sun protection routines, brands have been exploring various formats and textures such as patches, sticks and powders.”

Color Cosmetics Trends 2024

"Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz brings belonging, inspires recalibration, and an opportunity for nurturing, conjuring up an air of calm, offering us a space to be, feel, and heal and to flourish from whether spending time with others or taking the time to enjoy a moment by ourselves,” said Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute.Pantone

"One of the major trends for 2024 is based on the Color of the Year, which is Peach Fuzz," says Alexis Capik, president, Spectra Colors Corp. "This color will show up in major makeup brands and products to convey a more natural look. Another trend for 2024 is a more natural but dewy look with minimalist makeup and glossy lips and face."

Pantone's 2024 color of the year, 13-1023 Peach Fuzz, is a gentle color that sits between pink and orange and "whose all-embracing spirit enriches mind, body and soul," per the company.

The "warm and cozy shade" is intended to evoke tactility, caring and community, a sense of sanctuary, subtle sensuality, and collaboration. At the same time, Peach Fuzz delivers the humanity of the mind, body and soul, per Pantone, while delivering "beauty to the digital world."

What’s New: Packaging for Beauty Launches

Hybrid Packaging Solutions

Stephanie Rowntree, international product manager, HCP Packaging, says, “We are definitely seeing a big trend for packaging solutions suitable for products that are a hybrid of color and skin care—simultaneously supporting skin health and enhancing the appearance of the complexion. We are also seeing a growing trend for products and therefore packaging that is portable and travel-friendly, particularly for brands targeting the younger Gen Z consumer. We are investing in new tottle designs that offer flexibility in this respect; packaging that is ergonomic, versatile and compatible with a wide array of products such as SPF, foundation, serum and even hair care. Our design team is also very focused on ensuring new packaging designs are accessible and sustainable; incorporating refillable aspects, PCR and recyclability.”

HCP Packaging’s Twist Tottle 30 ml is a new packaging design for liquid cosmetics and skin care products.

HCP Packaging’s Twist Tottle 30 ml from HCP's Design Futures Team is an innovative new packaging design for liquid cosmetics and skin care products. With its one-handed dispensing feature, this clever pack allows for easy, accessible and convenient use of products such as sunscreen, foundation and serum, as well as hair care. The Twist Tottle eliminates the need for a separate overcap, reducing overall component parts. 

It offers ease of opening, especially when the consumer's hands are wet or a one-handed opening gesture is preferred. Engineered with accessibility in mind for those with motor-dexterity challenges, opening the Twist Tottle is significantly easier than unscrewing a traditional threaded cap. It can be manufactured in various material mixes to ensure the perfect level of flexibility, compatibility and protection for different formula types and viscosities. 

The Twist Tottle is also environmentally friendly and is ready-to-recycle within the PP/PE recycling stream. PCR materials are available for reduced environmental impact. There is also the option to include an EVOH layer for enhanced barrier properties.

Refill Systems

Valentina Dragoni, marketing manager, Lumson, says, “For Lumson, redesigning, rethinking new refill systems is becoming more and more a priority, and attests to our unwavering commitment to sustainability, without overlooking technical, aesthetic and product protection functions. The new Slim rechargeable glass jar in 50 ml format, has recently joined the Lumson’s Replace line that already includes Unique, DeLuxe and Japa refillable glass jars. This new solution, designed for prestige skin care products, has a minimal captivating profile and is perfectly aligned with the three key concept of Replace sustainable design: Re-think (the packaging has an eco-design approach), Re-Gen, to give the glass jar a new life and play a part in reducing the CO₂ emissions, Re-Act, the consumer plays an increasingly active role and customizes the product by simply replacing the inner cup.”

Lumson's Slim rechargeable glass jar in 50 ml format.

Dragoni continues, “Slim refill jar is eco-friendly also for the materials it is made, the jar can be realized in PCR glass (25%). The plastic inner cup in PP has been specifically designed to allow a protection to be applied on top, and after use, can be easily removed from the jar and disposed of through the recycling chain. A 100% eco-friendly solution especially if combined with the monomaterial cover, made of three fully PP components and specifically designed to be free of any classic material's imperfections. Appearance matters too, the Slim refillable glass jar is totally customizable. The jar can be decorated using several decoration techniques as screen printing and hot stamping, external lacquering and inner one, a special decoration studied to perfectly draw the lines of the glass jar from the internal, emphasizing its thick bottom. Not only is the jar decorated but also the inner cup in PP can get its own personality with colors, especially if seen separately as a refillable component. Last but not least, to get a 360° product ready to be filled, even the cover can be customized playing with different effects and finishes.”

Tactile Films

Sherry Marvin, director of brand owner/end user business, and Raul Cobus, marketing director in Spain, Derprosa, say, “Packaging for the beauty industry needs to be attractive, distinctive, well constructed and as sustainable as possible. The package must be aligned with the values of the brand. Attractiveness and distinctiveness is connected to the ability of a given product to be chosen among similar or equivalent products of the same category in the mind of the decision maker. And for that, neuromarketing aspects play a very key role: Tactile films help a packaged product to be chosen when it is held, touched [and] sensed by the user. This sensation might be subconscious, but maybe more powerful than the conscious ones. For many brands, their brand promise includes a dedicated action toward safer products and more sustainable packaging. So any option in terms of using raw materials that better support this target would be of choice.”

Marvin and Cobus continue, “Derprosa by Taghleef is continuously launching new products that specifically support the above drivers. In the past month we have launched several films for sustainability as well as improving aesthetics. Derprosa BioBlue is a range of films made from renewable vegetable oil- no petroleum- allowing these films to reduce carbon footprint. Derprosa reLIFE has a range of films that are manufactured with 30% PCR post-consumer chemically recycled raw materials staying consistent with the circular economy. Derprosa has a new film that extends our Pro-Shield line, called Pro-Shield Sensa. The sensa has all the great characteristics of the Pro-Shield films, however, is softer to the touch. This is the most deep matte film in the market, and has the  strongest anti scratch properties. Derprosa added to our extensive line of Soft Touch Films-The DL Soft Touch Pro-Shield x4x, which is super matte, super transparent, super tactile, anti-fingerprint and now also scratch resistant. Another new film that Derprosa introduced is the Matte smooth leather and Derprosa Striking Gloss leather films. These films have transparent finishes resembling leather- one glossy the other matte, with high tactile properties.”