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Antiaging/Cosmeceuticals
Beauty in Layers: Multitasking Ingredients
By: Abby Penning
Posted: June 1, 2012, from the June 2012 issue of GCI Magazine.
page 2 of 5
Obviously, there are many considerations in the formulation of any type of beauty product, and the presence of multitasking ingredients doesn’t negate that. However, they can provide more opportunities and solutions for various products. “Multitasking active ingredients are like a triple chocolate cake: you always have a top layer—the first claim or benefit—and then additional ones,” says Lefèvre, citing examples from Induchem that include Unisooth EG-28, which works to remove dark circles and also is soothing; Unitamuron H-22, the vegetal equivalent of a high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, which offers a velvety feel, and also restores skin hydration and smoothness; and Unilucent HR-14, a radiance enhancer that also works to increase skin firmness.In fact, you don’t have to dig very deep in beauty ingredients to find options that provide more than one solution for solution-hungry formulations. “Proteins offer moisturization and softening benefits to the hair and skin,” says Suellen Bennett, global marketing manager, Lonza Personal Care. “Animal proteins, such as collagen and elastin, have been used on skin and hair for decades, and proteins can be, and are currently used, in all types of personal care products—hair, skin, body and color cosmetics. In response to consumer demand, we have created a full line of plant- and yeast-derived proteins that are just as multitasking as their animal-derived counterparts.”
And Robert Griffiths, vice president, sales and business development, Chemsil, comments, “Silicones in general are multitasking. In skin care applications, they deliver skin conditioning and moisturization, as well as enhancing the spreadability of other ingredients in the formulation. They can also be useful for transient delivery, softening, conditioning, anti-static, color protection, color enhancement and more—silicones are used in all aspects of beauty products. Nearly 70% of all new beauty products commercialized include some amount of silicone.”
From different functional and active benefits and claims to help with preservation and formulation, beauty ingredients of every variety can contribute as multitaskers. “We offer a number of natural functional and active ingredients that we consider to be multitasking,” says Satish Nayak, PhD, director of research and development, Kemin Personal Care. “The primary function of our Lysofix ingredient is a natural emulsifier derived from non-GMO soybeans, but it is available in a glycerin carrier, which also provides the added benefit of moisturization. Kemin ingredient Rosamox is primarily used as an antioxidant to prevent oils used in formulations from going rancid. However, when applied to skin, Rosamox can also provide antioxidant benefits. And our FloraGlo Lutein Topical is a natural antioxidant from marigold extract. When applied topically and daily, FloraGlo Lutein may demonstrate an increase in skin hydration, lipid content and elasticity.”
Some ingredients are developed with multitasking in mind, or at least with knowledge that they will be able to offer more than one claim for a product. However, some multitasking benefits are only found as the results of testing and use. Lefèvre explains, “Initially, we designed an ingredient called NovHyal Biotech G as a needle-free substitute of reticulated hyaluronic acid from esthetic medicine.” However, when the ingredient began performing well, Induchem decided to see what else it could do. “Additional benefits appeared during our testing: firming and regenerating actions, and obviously as we reactivate hyaluronic acid synthesis deep into the skin, we favor the capture of water in the skin. We now advise using this ingredient for anti-aging face care to delay surgery, for body care for deep moisturization and firming, and also in active color cosmetics like foundations.”
