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Anti-aging Solutions in Today's Marketplace

By: Sara Mason
Posted: November 25, 2013, from the December 2013 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Natural ingredients and methodologies are increasing in all segments of the beauty market. Lisa Carroll, co-founder of Native Extracts of Australia, comments, “Consumers want their products to be as close to the natural source—in its natural environment—as possible. That means increased pressure for raw material manufacturers to provide independent scientific proof of what they say their products do, which is a great thing for this industry, formulators, product development and consumers.” As technologies emerge, it will open up new possibilities to develop products that can deliver advanced results.

“We have created a new extraction technology that creates superior water-soluble extracts compared to traditional methods,” says Carroll. Native Extracts’ new cellular technology delivers potent levels of active compounds from nature, allowing product developers to do away with synthetic options. The cellular extraction method captures an abundance of bio-actives, delivering a rapid, clean, fresh extract without heat or degradation of the raw material or altering the plant profile.

Native Extracts also was able to stabilize vitamin C for an extended period—more than 12 months—in an aqueous matrix featuring the kakadu plum extract. “The future lies in new discoveries from rare sources and new technologies to release bio-active compounds from within nature’s cells—the building blocks of life—and credible scientific verification of their activity,” says Carroll.

Sabinsa will soon launch a peptide-based product in the market, which will be innovative in its composition as well as function. “It is functionally very unique and effective in very small concentrations as compared to the crude or semi-crude plant extracts,” explains Pande.

The production of this peptide is different from the usual extraction and isolation of plant-based compounds. “Olepent is not a usual peptide product, but actually is a novel amalgamation of phytochemistry and peptide science,” Pande says. Olepent will address various skin aging concerns such as wrinkles, collagen break down, scarring and age spots. It is unique as it functions on two levels, acting as both a repairing and firming peptide. The peptide’s anti-inflammatory activity will help in minimizing the effects of enzymes such as collagenase and elastase, which can break down the skin matrix, and it will help repair skin barrier dysfunction. Being able to combine a natural sourcing story with innovative technology is an ideal way to pique consumer interest.

Inflamm-aging

While extrinsic factors such as UV exposure, chemicals and pollution play a major role in the aging process, inflammation is now recognized as a major cause of intrinsic aging too. With age, the immune system becomes less effective and inflammatory activity increases. This can lead to chronic inflammation characterized by a slow but continuous production of free radicals, causing wrinkles and sagging skin. “Inflammation is a vicious cycle that leads to wrinkles and other signs of aging,” says Hurst.

Mibelle is looking to inhibit inflammatory reactions with MAXnolia, a water-dispersible active powder based on magnolia bark extract, a natural inhibitor of the pro-inflammatory transcription factor NF-KB. Mibelle also is looking to introduce CM-Naringenin-Chalcone, a single molecule derived from naringenin, a flavanone naturally occurring in the peel of citrus fruit. In a clinical study performed on volunteers with rosacea skin, CM-Naringenin-Chalcone clearly diminishes capillary blood flow and therefore the appearance of facial redness.

Glycation, the binding of a protein molecule to a glucose molecule, causes many aging symptoms as well. Proteins such as collagen and elastin can get damaged by reducing sugars under harsh conditions. This leads to the formation of advanced glycation end (AGE) products, which then react with cellular receptors to produce inflammatory reactions. The accumulation of AGEs leads to a gradual stiffening and loss of firmness and elasticity of the skin. Anti-glycation and anti-aging compounds, such as theraglycan-3, act to reduce actual AGE content in the skin and will be an emerging trend moving forward.

Preventative Care

Younger consumers are looking for moisturizing benefits and sun protection in addition to wrinkle prevention and lightening dark spots. Formulated with a brightening complex and featuring vitamin C to reduce discoloration, First Aid Beauty’s Facial Radiance Serum is aimed at all ages.

“With the prevalence of sun damage and challenges like acne discoloration and uneven skin tone, there is a huge demand for products that address these concerns,” says First Aid Beauty founder Lilli Gordon.

Merck introduced an active ingredient that prevents skin tanning and decreases hyperpigmentation. RonaCare Pristine Bright inhibits tyrosinase, an enzyme that plays an important role in the formation of melanin. At the same time, Merck launched RonaCare Bronzyl to inhibit skin aging caused by exposure to UV radiation. The ingredient stimulates the production of melanin and activates the natural tanning process, inducing the skin to build up its own natural UV protection. “The market segment for cosmetic active ingredients that use a biological mode of action to allow the body to tan is still very new,” says Michael Weiden, Merck’s head of functional materials within its pigments and cosmetics business unit. “We are convinced that this technologically sophisticated segment will see strong growth in the coming years, and we look forward to helping to shape it.”

Both UV and infrared (IR) induce skin damage but in different ways, and therefore, IR protection requires specialized strategies. Sederma finished new tests for Venuceane, an anti-aging active offering UV protection demonstrated to be highly efficient against IR aging. “Infrared represents more than 50% of solar radiation, and is a major contributor of photoaging and even photo-carcinogenicity,” says Gabriele. Derived by biotechnology, Venuceane is a ferment that is rich in multifunctional and stable enzymes. It helps improve hydration via the protection of the mitochondrial integrity known to be particularly damaged by IR radiation, lessens the inflammatory conditions, and protects collagen integrity and elastin architecture in order to limit wrinkle formation.

Hair Rising

The latest trend in hair care has been influenced by the anti-aging standard in skin care. Age and exposure to chemicals depletes the protein and lipid content of hair, damaging the surface and accelerating the aging process. Keratin is a natural supplement choice that provides rejuvenation and an overall healthy appearance; however, natural keratin does not readily adhere to hair and must be chemically processed. Salvona’s HydroSal SalSilk is designed to address the need for a healthy keratin treatment that yields results without the use of formaldehyde. HydroSal SalSilk is a water-based, sub-micron sphere delivery system. The driving innovation of the product is the supplier’s HydroSal platform, a translucent suspension of sub-micron spheres. “The release of encapsulated ingredients from the porous core of HydroSal is controlled by diffusion and triggered by contact with moisture,” shares Shai Shefer, CFO and CIO, Salvona.

The goal is to take proven ingredients and enhance their capabilities using encapsulation methods. “Kind of like transforming Clark Kent into Superman,” Shefer says. Anti-aging hair products have huge potential. “By giving that boost to existing ingredients, or combining several functional ingredients in an encapsulation that creates synergistic benefits, we make it safer and more approachable to consumers and provide an encapsulation system that allows the formulator to easily include a variety of valuable, hair-enriching ingredients in one thoughtful product,” Shefer explains.

Looking Ahead

In the current market, which has been flooded with products, only proper science and innovation can help a product succeed. “As technology evolves, we learn more about the key contributors of aging, how to influence them and how to evaluate the end consumer benefits,” says Gabriele.