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Delivering on Antiaging Potential

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: October 10, 2008, from the January 2006 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 4 of 5

When speaking of delivering actives to multiple layers of skin, Art Georgalas, director of new technologies, TRI-K Industries, cites a multicomponent, multifunctional actives complex—a concentrated herbal active developed from the traditional medicine of Australia’s Aborigines. The complex “acts on different layers of the skin. On the surface it retexturizes the visible cutaneous microrelief with film-forming properties that smooth the surface skin appearance. Below this, at the deeper layers, it reactivates skin metabolism and stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to help plump the skin structure and reduce signs of wrinkles.”

“Delivery of the actives takes place through hydrated skin, which enhances penetration of these hydrophilic actives,” says Georgalas. “Fibroblasts in the dermis, as evidenced in cell culture, are stimulated to replicate and produce higher quantities of type 1 Collagen.” For the enhanced, controlled delivery of liposoluble actives, Georgalas notes the new nanoparticle dispersions. “Ingredients such as retinol, vitamin A alcohol (with skin-firming and rejuvenation activity) and tocopherol, vitamin E or coenzyme Q-10 with antioxidant properties can be incorporated at high levels in a variety of solid lipids to deliver as aqueous dispersions of nanoparticles in skin creams and lotions.” The high surface area of the nanoparticles, their natural adhesion to the skin and formation of a layer of contiguous particles allow them to systematically release actives to the skin in a controlled way, with enhanced penetration.

Delivery at Retail

SkinMedica TNS Recovery Complex with NouriCel-MD is said to improve skin health by rejuvenating aging sun damaged skin and softening lines. The products contain a delivery system built into NouriCel-MD, based on topical penetrants that simultaneously prepare the skin for delivery and carry the NouriCel-MD through the stratum corneum.

IS Clinical, by Innovative Skincare, launched a vitamin C collection with topical stabilized L-ascorbic acid as the key component. Antiaging, skin protection and treatment of pigmentation disorders are targeted, and ingredient delivery to the cells is key. “For any ingredient to be effective, it has to arrive at the site of its action, whether that is the cell’s DNA, collagen producing mechanism or cell membrane lipid layer,” says Charlene DeHaven, clinical director, IS Clinical. If applied topically, a cosmetic ingredient first must penetrate the stratum corneum. Considering that the skin is designed to keep substances out, this is more difficult than it sounds.” After penetration, the ingredient must travel through other layers or cellular structures to reach its site of action. Once there, it still must be in its active form, unmodified by its travels or changed in a way during its travels that it has become active.

A product using novel delivery is emerginC Multi Vitamin Serum + Retinol, which delivers active vitamins A (retinol), B, C, E, F, H and K in a green tea base to nourish skin and fight aging. The formula is encased in airtight millicapsules that ensure ingredient integrity and break on the skin for even delivery.