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Sniffing Out Scent Clues to New Classics
By: Nancy C. Hayden
Posted: April 6, 2010, from the April 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.
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Dolce Gabana, too, offered various interpretations of the rose notes, making a big impression at the counter with its La Lune and Rose the One, which exudes the Damascene rose with a slight oriental twist. Rose Essentialle by Bulgari, launched in 2006 and created by International Flavors and Fragrance’s (IFF) Beatrice Piquet, has an interesting blackberry, violet leaf intro into an ottoman rose with mimosa and sambac jasmine. Warmth and sexiness comes from its sandalwood and patchouli.
A more recent simplistic floral launch, Stella McCartney’s flanker Stella Nude, which combines Moroccan rose and peony rose with violet, offers top notes of grapefruit and pink pepper to give it a contemporary feel. Its base notes of amber and vanilla add warmth.
IFF’s Sophia Grojsman’s signature of full rich fruity roses can be experienced in another big splash introduction—Parisienne by YSL. Her first creation for YSL was Paris. With IFF’s Sophie Labbé’s input, a fresh blackberry top note leads into the heart of Damascus rose and violet, which are woven with sandalwood, patchouli, vetivert and musk into a contemporary “vinyl” accord—one that evokes metal gloss and varnish Parisienne has the potential to become a classic if it is supported and pushed, and the dominance of various rose notes of these recent launches benefitted from new combinations that resulted in modern interpretations of the rich natural rose derivatives for more diffusion and freshness. Floral romance pervades, but new twists with peppercorn, lavender, watermelon, pomegranate and kiwi give fresh nuances to the rich comfort of rose.
An Oriental Twist
Launches of orientals have remained consistent, but new twists with floral spices on rich oriental bases definitely pique consumer interest. One new impact fragrance that has classic potential, Idole d’Armani is a blend of spices and florals to create sensual warmth and a wonderful wafting aura of intrigue. It has a melding quality and heart. If Armani continues to promote this well, it should expect to see good repeat sales.
Flora by Gucci is a floral oriental with wonderful skin exuberance. It has identity and lovely warmth and great feminine diffusion. Its future, too, is bright.