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Hair Care Ingredients Nourish and Support

By: Nancy Jeffries
Posted: May 1, 2008, from the May 2008 issue of GCI Magazine.

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Lamesoft Care is a high-performance wax dispersion suited for surfactant-based skin and hair applications. Its micronized lipid system offers hair conditioning properties as well as gloss. It is suitable for hair colors, shampoos and specific ethnic hair care treatments. Cognis claims its naturally sourced ingredients help manufacturers produce products that meet the standard of the “green” trend while still delivering performance. The company’s “Feelosophy” mantra focuses on wellness while keeping in mind the four dimensions of a holistic product experience: perception, feel, effect and usage. Clearly, today’s consumers are finding treatment products that reflect hard science and a respect for natural sourcing in the hair care arena.

Vitamin and Mineral Fortified
“Vitamin and mineral fortified,” according to Croda Inc., was one of the top claims for hair conditioners in 2007. The company says there was good reason for the claim, as vitamins and minerals can “feed” the hair, ward off damage and provide a healthy, natural look. One of the largest concerns, however, when using these ingredients in hair products is obtaining substantivity from rinse-off systems. There needs to be evidence that vitamins are depositing onto the hair and that they remain there, rather than washing down the drain. Simply, nourishing ingredients in a formulation need sticking power in order to provide benefit.

Croda developed Crodasoft DBQ to aid in the deposition of oil-soluble actives, such as Vitamin E and silicone, from rinse-off conditioner systems. In studies, when Crodasoft DBQ was compared to behentrimonium chloride (BTMC), a benchmark quarternary conditioner commonly used, the Crodasoft DBQ (1.5% active) was shown to be more effective at depositing vitamin E (0.5%). Crodasoft DBQ (0.5%) was also added to a conditioner containing silicone, and substantivity was shown to have improved in that system as well. Additional information from the testing is available at www.crodausa.com.

Aesthetics and Functionality
Gentle cleansing combined with a soft, supple afterfeel is a primary goal of hair care products. “Babies aren’t the only ones who deserve gentle care,” says Julie Shlepr, global marketing director, Noveon Consumer Specialties, a business unit of the Lubrizol Corp. “Developed from corn, naturally derived glutamate thickeners reduce surface irritation while maintaining rich, creamy lather. These extra-mild thickeners are [also] gentle to eyes and skin.” According to Shlepr, this makes them ideal for products positioned for babies and children, the elderly, frequent shampooers who often are men, and for consumers with sensitive scalp and skin—for example, those who use color or relaxing processes.

“Also derived from corn, Glucam humectants are ideal for moisturizing systems that require a light, but satin-like feel,” Shlepr continues. “These can enhance the rich feel of foaming products while adding moisture retention and emolliency. Gluquat conditioners provide lightweight conditioning, especially well suited for fine hair, including the hair of babies and children.”