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Naturals in Europe

By: Marie Alice Dibon
Posted: April 19, 2010, from the April 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 5 of 5

“You can have two different approaches: one is the mechanistic approach, based on the search for activity. It uses deterministic biology, based on biomolecular models, on the search for targets, the functioning of cells. Then there is an approach based more on sensoriality and other aspects of the natural—this is the holistic approach,” André continues. “The idea is to make them meet. In order to do that, we have to integrate true ecological thinking, stop using biologists that can only believe in the single molecule. That is the only way to foster sustainable innovation.”

For André, the scientific discourse in skin care has gone too far. When asked about the fact that, in France at least, some of the top bloggers in the beauty sphere are women exchanging recipes for homemade cosmetics, he is not surprised. “It is normal to want to do things at home. This is their response to a very deep-seated need,” he says. “They turn to gardening, cooking, authentic things. I firmly believe there is room for a more sophisticated yet natural and authentic cosmetic science that can bring something more. Unfortunately, that is still a much too small part of the communication. With Guerlain’s Orchidarium and Dior’s garden, we have made a real investment on eco-responsibility. We are working on the viability of our sustainable development programs. It is not just for show.”