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Sun Care in the 21st Century
By: Jeff Falk
Posted: December 9, 2009, from the December 2009 issue of GCI Magazine.
- Balancing performance with aesthetics is one of the greatest challenges of creating sun care products for the U.S. market.
- As new UVA filters become approved, and regulated test methods drive improved performance in this area, the next generation of sun protection products is predicted to offer superior UVA protection.
- Differences in global regulatory requirements are a challenge for anyone wanting to make “global” sunscreen formulations.
GCI magazine spoke with David Sutton, sun care marketing manager, Dow Personal Care, and Julian Hewitt, technical specialist for Croda Suncare & Biopolymers, about the challenges of creating sun care for today’s market.
GCI: What are the challenges of creating sun care ingredients, in general, for today’s market? Can the market, due to the delay of the U.S. Food & Drug Administration (FDA) sunscreen monograph, have been categorized as one that was in flux? Is it now in a wait-and-see period? How does an ingredient manufacturer keep innovating in a market where there are questions about what will and won’t be required, by an authoritative/regulatory body, in a final product?
Sutton: One of the greatest challenges of creating sun care products for the U.S. market is balancing performance with aesthetics. With the proposed changes to the FDA’s sunscreen monograph still waiting approval, ingredient manufacturers can keep innovating and moving forward by addressing the performance/aesthetics challenge, and by providing brand owners with ingredients that can be used in support of other trends—such as the growing demand for finished products that can be labeled as “natural,” “organic” or “Ecocert-approved.”
Dow Personal Care, for example, recently added a new ZinClear IM product from Antaria Limited to its range of sun care technologies. ZinClear IM 50JJ is an Ecocert-approved product containing zinc oxide dispersed in jojoba ester.