Editor's note: C&T is pleased to revive its Formula Focus series. Products are chosen at the editor's discretion and highlight key ingredients used by the supplier to create it.
This week's formula, Bouncy Eye Cream from Gattefossé, features a bouncy moisturizing texture and is said to provide immediate comfort. Emulium Dermolea MB (INCI: Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate (and) Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters), with its fine-tuned lipidic composition, brings soothing properties while Eyeglorius (INCI: Octyldodecyl Myristate (and) Hippophae Rhamnoides Extract) is incorporated to reduce dark circles and puffiness over time. (Click on image below to enlarge).
See archived: Formula Focus — Hair Conditioner Bar
Gattefossé
Procedure: In the main vessel, heat the water of A1 between 50-60°C in order to better disperse Stärkina Natural. Disperse with high shear for 10 min (Note: if the water is too hot, Stärkina creates agglomerates that are difficult to disperse. In case this happens, one can disperse with rotor stator to break the agglomerates). Prepare the premix of A2, add to A1 and disperse with high shear for 5 min. Heat A1+A2 to 70°C. Prepare oil phase B and heat at 70°C. Check that everything is well-melted. Proceed with the emulsion of oil phase B into water phase A1+A2 at 70°C under high shear (rotor stator at 2500-3000 rpm) for 10 min. Cool under moderate mixing until reaching 40°C. Below 40°C, add C in order and stir under medium shear until everything is completely incorporated. Finish cooling, check pH and adjust with phase D. Properties: light pink cream; pH: 5.3 ± 0.3; viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle C, speed 5) = approx. 130000 mPa.s after 24 hr. > 99.6% natural origin (ISO 16128).
