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A Place in the Sun

By: Sara Mason
Posted: June 7, 2010, from the June 2010 issue of GCI Magazine.

page 4 of 9

Cognis has launched two such new products. In spring 2009, the supplier announced Eumulgin Prisma, which makes the formulation of even the highest SPFs an easier task and has no negative impact on sensoriality. Eumulgin Prisma belongs to a new generation of emulsifiers, according to Prat, and the high-performance emulsifier is compatible with high levels of water-soluble sunscreens and actives.

Cetiol C5 is a light emollient from 100% natural renewable feedstock, launched by the company in April 2010. It can be used as an alternative to feel-enhancer cyclomethicone, a silicone on some NGO watch lists. While in some cases cyclomethicone is used in formulations to balance the sensorial properties, it does not enhance filter solubility, according to Cognis. Cetiol C5, on the other hand, combines good solving properties for sun filters with a cyclomethicone-like feel.

From Evonik, ABIL Care XL 80 is a new emulsifier that provides a combination of stabilization and sensory benefits—such as a velvety, light after-feel. It has been developed specifically to ensure optimal emulsion stability while enabling a smooth feel within a lotion or spray product for any type of skin.

Silicones also provide formulators with choices for a variety of sun care product forms and delivery systems, from creams to lotions, sprays to sticks, mousses to gels with pleasing formulation aesthetics. Advanced technology offers silicones that are substantive on the skin to help prevent wash-off—so sun care products can work better and last longer as well.

Dow Corning offers silicone fluids that can be combined with organic or inorganic sunscreens to boost the SPF of sun care formulations, making it possible to develop products with greater protection, enhanced claims and no added cost. Or, in children’s products or those designed for sensitive skin, it may be possible to use lower levels of a potentially irritating sunscreen active while still maintaining the desired degree of protection.