Makeup posted the fastest growing dollar salesa in the U.S. prestige beauty category in 2023, according to Circana. Makeup was also one of only two mass sectors that grew based on unit sales (the other was skin care). Understanding the growth drivers behind last year’s results points to top prospects for 2024 and beyond.
1. Hybrids for Casual Users
Lady Burd has added a nourishing lip oil to its client offerings. The hydrating formulation offers a natural, glossy finish and is EU vegan-compliant.Lady Burd
This is borne out by sales data. According to Circana, top growers in the prestige makeup category in 2023 included lip makeup, which spiked 31% year-over-year, or twice the rate of the overall category. This was led by products such as tinted lip oils and balms.
This aligns with Euromonitor datac spanning the first nine months of 2023, which noted that “other lip products”—excluding lip liners and lip pencils—posted the greatest online sales growth of any beauty or personal care category tracked by the firm.
In fact, those “other lip product” sales increased more than 2x compared to the comparable period of 2022. Similar to the Circana findings, top performers included lip serums, tinted lip oils and “other products designed to enhance their lip features.”
In response to growth in the skin-friendly lip category, private label manufacturer Lady Burd has added a nourishing lip oil to its client offerings. The hydrating formulation offers a natural, glossy finish and is EU vegan-compliant.
Beyond the lips, key skin care concerns found among “moderate” users of color cosmetics include acne, dry patches and dark circles, according to the Mintel report. These offer promising targets for product innovation.
In October 2023, Spated picked up on the prevalence of makeup-skin hybrids in face products. At the time, bronzing drops were averaging more than 370% year-over-year search growth online, dominated by Drunk Elephant, which has had immense success with its D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops. The drops include 5% niacinamide, antioxidants and omega fatty acids.
Illuminating glow serums are another top facial makeup product, based on search volume. Consumers are searching for terms such as niacinamide, review and booster alongside “illuminating glow serum.” The prevalence of niacinamide in search traffic may be related to its inclusion in Keys Soulcare’s Let Me Glow Illuminating Priming Serum with Niacinamide. This, Spate points out, is all the more reason for product names to feature key ingredients.
Vantage Personal Care has developed Effortless Color, a range of skin-friendly color innovations.Vantage Personal Care
The Effortless Color Collection also features concepts such as the Hydrating Satin Lipstick, Tinted Zinc Shield lightweight tinted moisturizer with SPF-30 and the Hydrating Tinted Face Oil.
2. High-performance Convenience
Just as hybrids offer ease of use, long-lasting makeup promises buy-in from both casual and more moderate users of makeup, as shown in the Mintel analysis. To align with the value proposition of hybrids, these long-wear solutions must absolutely be skin-friendly.
In November 2023, Exploding Topics noted immense viewership for TikTok posts featuring “power grip primers” (161 million). These primers not only ensure smooth makeup application but ensure long wear. e.l.f. is reportedly the top brand associated with the category, experiencing a nearly 1,700% jump in search volume over the last two years.
3. Multi-use Formats
Mintel notes that moderate makeup users appreciate multi-use products such as sticks or powders that can be simultaneously applied to the lips, cheeks, eyes and more. This same cohort seeks out product formats that don’t require extra brushes or applicators, maximizing convenience. Many of these will feature skin-friendly materials. (Are you detecting a theme?)
Examples of such multi-use formats include the Iris&Romeo Ceramide Multi-balm Lip+Cheek Cream Blush Stick; Nudestix Gel Color Lip + Cheek Balm; Danessa Myricks Beauty Colorfix Multi-Use Eye, Cheek & Lip Waterproof Liquid Pigment; Haus Labs by Lady Gaga Hy-Power Eye, Cheek & Lip Pigment Paint; and Mango People Mango Cream Blush & Lip Multistick.
4. Non-toxing Makeup
In January 2024 Spate noted significant growth in non-toxic product formats, including mascara, brow gel and makeup remover.Seventyfour
In response to growing consumer concerns, Verla International, a private label contract manufacturer, has developed Credo clean, naturally derived and performance-driven mascaras.
The formulations use a new film former technology to create extreme lashes, per the manufacturer. Formulas can accommodate any combination of performance attributes: longer lengthening, extreme volume, maximum lift and curl and growth enhancement. Furthermore, the mascaras are infused with a conditioning serum for healthy lashes.
BONUS REPORT: Emerging Makeup Ingredients & Trends
2024 Color of the Year
For color cosmetics evoking Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz, Spectra Colors Corp. recommends leveraging organic pigments, FD&C Yellow 6 Allum Lake; image by maxa0109 at Adobe Stock.
The “warm and cozy shade” is intended to evoke tactility, caring and community, a sense of sanctuary, subtle sensuality, and collaboration. At the same time, Peach Fuzz delivers the humanity of the mind, body and soul, per Pantone, while delivering “beauty to the digital world.”
For color cosmetics evoking Pantone 13-1023 Peach Fuzz, Spectra Colors Corp. recommends leveraging organic pigments, FD&C Yellow 6 Allum Lake. For personal care, the company recommends water-soluble FD&C Yellow 6 or oil-soluble D&C Red 17, depending on the application.
Iron Oxides for Mineral Cosmetics
Spectra Colors Corp.'s range includes yellow iron oxide, AKA ferric oxide hydrate; red iron oxide (famous for its namesake red color); black iron oxide, AK ferric ferrous oxide; and iron oxide light brown.Spectra Colors
Spectra Colors Corp. offers iron oxides for mineral makeup (foundations, eye shadow, powder mineral pigments, blush, etc.) that are safe for use with sensitive skin types.Spectra Colors
Light Scattering for Blurring & Blue Light Defense
During the SCC annual meeting in December 2023, Rupa Darji, Ph.D., of BASF France introduced a novel bio-inspired photonic material with highly tunable characteristics. According to Darji, the effects of structural color depend on light scattering of ordered or disordered features within microstructures. This inspired BASF scientists to mimic these patterns to control light for cosmetic applications.
Porous silica microspheres with ordered photonic features were produced by BASF to create soft-focus effects while maintaining natural-looking transparency. Haze and transmittance properties were measured and compared with solid non-porous silica particles in an oil-based formulation. The researchers concluded that the material achieved a blurring effect.
In addition, modeling tools, including experimental learning loops, were developed to predict properties of the photonic microspheres and used to design additional microspheres for skin protection against blue light. The materials will be launched commercially in 2024.
Conscious Colors
Sun Chemicals’ SunPuro Natural Carotene O N70-2317 is a globally approved natural colorant derived from Dunaliella salina algae. The material reportedly delivers vivid color from yellow to orange, as well as antioxidant properties, which can be used in color cosmetics and skin care products.
Meanwhile, the company’s SunPuro Natural Carotene BTO N70-2527 is a globally approved deep orange-red colorant made through the bio-fermentation of beta carotene. The process generates an enhanced yield while minimizing the product’s environmental impact, per the company.
FOOTNOTE
awww.circana.com/intelligence/category/blog/?_industry=beauty
bwww.mintel.com/beauty-and-personal-care-market-news/how-colour-cosmetics-brands-can-appeal-to-different-types-of-makeup-users/
cwww.euromonitor.com/article/tracking-the-winners-in-beauty-and-personal-care-e-commerce-over-the-first-nine-months-of-2023
dwww.spate.nyc/
