Product protection by Symrise: How multifunctionals shape modern formulations


The beauty industry is facing more challenges than ever before. Consumers have precise expectations about how their personal care products should perform and trends travel around the world faster than ever. National regulations must be followed and regional preferences must be satisfied. Ultimately, cost is also important. For these reasons, product development focuses on formulation expertise. Nobody understands this better than the cosmetic ingredients division at Symrise.

Formulators are at the heart of product development. They not only control a large palette of ingredients, but constantly optimize their use to provide lean and highly effective formulations that must fulfill many requirements.

In light of this, multifunctional ingredients play a key role: They help formulators to reduce the overall number of ingredients while maximizing formula benefits and consumer experience. Multifunctionals not only enhance the product protection system and help keeping cosmetic products safe and stable; they also add value to a formulation. They may stabilize emulsions, act as antioxidants or make traditional antioxidants more effective, modulate sebum and reduce malodors, among others benefits. Most multifunctionals are easy to formulate with and offer good compatibility. Some actually stabilize other ingredients in the formula via solubilization.

Enter Symrise: Hardly any other company knows as much about product protection and multifunctionals—and has done so for more than 30 years.


A long history of product protection and a green path to the future

In 1992, Symrise created Hydrolite® 5, the first 1,2-alkanediol on the cosmetics market and a powerful multifunctional that enhances product protection. Since then, Symrise Cosmetic Ingredients division has continued to lead and innovate in the world of product protection and multifunctionals as demonstrated by its steady stream of product launches that include new molecules on the cosmetics market, such as hydroxyacetophenone (SymSave® H).


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From synthetic raw materials, Symrise’s path took it to nature-identical raw materials, and from there to natural raw materials. The latest innovation, the new multifunctional Hydrolite® 7 green, is for instance based on sidestreams from castor plant transformation.

“Sustainability is paving the way to the future,” says Balint Koroskenyi, Global Product Manager Product Protection. “Green multifunctionals make it easier for manufacturers of natural cosmetics to improve the safety and performance of their products and enable producers of conventional cosmetics to increase the proportion of sustainable ingredients, improving the overall naturalness of their formulas.”

A bold philosophy driving innovation

But Symrise’s self-image doesn’t end with cutting-edge products, as Yohanna Sander, Director Global Product Management Product Protection explains, “Innovation in product protection also means supporting our customers with their product development on a daily basis. This is why we have incorporated our comprehensive knowledge as a leading supplier of cosmetic ingredients into our online platform, HOGO.”

HOGO—“protection” in Japanese—significantly simplifies product development. The comprehensive database allows formulators to immediately obtain a list of suitable ingredients for preserving cosmetic products at any time and from anywhere in the world. The platform provides access to potential combinations plus efficacy data and information on the doses of ingredients.

Sander added: “From safe preservatives and versatile multifunctionals and skin protection with functional properties to HOGO, at Symrise we understand the needs and requirements of not only customers but also the industry. Our philosophy and our toolbox meet the needs of today’s global beauty care market.”


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