Fragrance Awards, Beauty Trends and the Scent of Peace

The Scent of Peace

On March 8, Laurice Rahmé of Bond No. 9 announced a new fragrance for a global sensibility called The Scent of Peace. After creating numerous scents for the diverse neighborhoods of New York, Rahmé created The Scent of Peace as a fragrance for citizens of the world who share a common commitment and hope for peace. The scent itself offers top notes of grapefruit and black currant, a heart of lily of the valley and hedione, and base notes of cedar and musk. It is intended for both men and women, and bears the eternal symbol of peace, the dove, on its flacon. For the launch, Bond No. 9 is donating $2 for every bottle purchased to UNICEF. Michel Almairac of Robertet, created the fragrance, which is available in the United States at Bond No. 9 locations and Saks. In addition to the fragrance itself—available in a 3.4 oz. artist-designed bottle and box presentation—there is also a matching candle, a travel-size fragrance and a per-ounce purchase available in a variety of vintage or art bottles.

Paris in New York

On March 14, Daniela Bartels, senior designer, Peclers Paris, presented a seminar at the Fashion Group International headquarters in New York City on the colors, textures and styles of spring/summer 2007 and fall/winter 2007/08. Bartels began working as a stylist for Peclers Paris in 1988, and has been a consultant for designer Yohji Yamamoto and a variety of French retailers. She punctuated her presentation with artistic, global and multimedia influences. From brown blousons to taupe trenches, to folklore and French finery, the overview was multilayered, colorful and nuanced.

Breaking the trends into four categories for fall/winter 2007–2008, she designated mute, functional, counter-cultural and futuristic as reference points. Mute was associated with re-balance, natural fibers, blends and high-tech performance. Functional featured refined color and a new form of textured, sensorial luxury. Counter-cultural showcased archetypal references and radical icons like Vivian Westwood and Bjork as influences. For color, there was a “Chromo Collision,” which would bring a re-ordering of color in surprising combinations. This would hold true for fabrics found in street wear. Colors would range from pastels and almost overexposed color to pigment tones and colorfast brights. Oxidized patinas would be strong, grayed and pulpy shades of artichoke. Subtle contrasts between ivory white and graphic black were also forecast.

Goldwell Celebrates on Ice

A Trend Collection on Ice was celebrated March 19–21 when Goldwell Hair Care and Color sponsored a three-part style and color exploration, beginning with a rink-side party at New York’s Rockefeller Center and concluding with two days of color and styling analysis at the Sheraton Towers Hotel. Goldwell guest artists included John Simpson, Shannon Lamm and Deborah Gavin, who demonstrated color techniques and cuts, within three designated aspects of Goldwell’s Trend Zoom 2006. The first, Crystal Spirit, explored the soul, with colors and styles that “spoke or whispered” and covered male color preferences—generally smoky colors and low maintenance cuts. Among other topics discussed, the subject of male hair chameleons such as Brad Pitt, Johnny Depp and George Clooney, who readily change their hairstyles and looks

The second aspect, called Real Fantasia, explored the human spirit with asymmetrical cuts, free-spirited styles, playful layering and architectural cuts. Lastly, Classic Delice, an exploration of the senses and society, represented by Shannon Lamm, who gave the audience a wealth of information on TopChic Neutralights from Goldwell, which provide nuanced caramel-colored brown tones. Lamm also provided commentary on how “hairstyle classics change just like everything else,” noting that even yesterday’s pompadour has been reinvented.

Finally, Goldwell introduced the new Goldwell Care Collection, a customized assortment of hair care products formulated for specific hair structures. The products also address color, curl and moisture levels, allowing for personalized hair care selection.

John Demsey at CEW

Cosmetic Executive Women welcomed John Demsey to its sold-out Newsmaker Forum on March 21 at New York’s Harmonie Club. Demsey, global brand president, Estée Lauder, described a journey that took him from the retail worlds of Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Saks Fifth Avenue to Benetton and M-A-C. He ran the M-A-C division for seven years before taking on his current role, and worked with M-A-C as it raised $40 million for the M-A-C AIDS Foundation. He described himself as “the elder statesman of the cosmetic industry,” noting that he has been with Lauder for 15 years out of his 22-year career. He credited M-A-C with helping him learn about unconventional thinking, which affected his professional perspective, and noted that March marked the 60th anniversary of The Estée Lauder Company. He paid tribute to the woman who started the Lauder Companies, saying, “What began as one woman’s vision became one of the world’s leading businesses.” He further noted, that while the brand was built store by store by Estée Lauder, service continues to be the most important factor for the third generation of Lauders.

As a company with more than $6 billion in retail around the world—including skin care, makeup and fragrance—he credited its founder with a philosophy that empowered women. “All women can be beautiful. There’s no such thing as a homely woman, only a lazy one,” said Estée in her biography, and that sentiment remains as a guiding principle of the company today. Demsey noted, “There’s an inherent classicism and history of self-empowerment in the brand. In order for a brand to be successful, you need to be able to translate it into modern times.”

To punctuate his comment, White Linen is being launched in spring in a new translation called Pure White Linen. Azurée, which Tom Ford has reconceptualized, also will launch in spring. Lastly, Demsey said that in rediscovering a brand, beauty, aspiration and quality are the driving forces, leaving the audience with the understanding that the heritage and modernity of the Lauder brand have come full circle.

FiFi Awards in NYC

The 34th Annual FiFi Awards, hosted by The Fragrance Foundation, took place in New York City’s Hammerstein Ballroom on April 3. The event united the worlds of fragrance and celebrity, with Geena Davis taking center stage to welcome attendees. An array of glamorous presenters added excitement to the evening. Don Loftus, president and CEO, P&G Prestige Products, Inc., and chairman of the Fragrance Foundation’s board of directors, offered opening remarks on the state of the industry. He noted that the 2005 saw the launch of 137 new women’s fragrances and 58 new men’s fragrances—adding that 114 are slated for launch in 2006. The key word in the industry, according to Loftus, is now coopitition, referring to the newest form of collaboration and competition in the industry. Fragrance Foundation President, Rochelle Bloom greeted guests, noting that, after 32 years, designers now are being invited to submit entries to create a newly designed FiFi award.

The parade of stars and award-winning fragrances began with Davis honoring the “olfactory wizardry” of the perfumers, and joking that she might have her own fragrance—Geena Te. Celebrity presenters included Sarah Jessica Parker, Vivica A. Fox, Philip Bloch, Betsey Johnson, Lee Ann Womack, John Corbett, Bo Derek and Vanessa Minnillo. Evelyn H. Lauder and Fracas de Robert Piguet by Fashion Fragrances & Cosmetics, Ltd., were inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame.

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