To better help R&D and marketing teams in their product innovation journeys, Global Cosmetic Industry publishes monthly reports breaking down not only the latest ingredients, but also the trends, market data and relevant claims those technologies respond to. From consumer search data to advancements in sustainable chemistry, this regular bulletin will help beauty professionals scope out their next differentiating breakthrough.
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To better help R&D and marketing teams in their product innovation journeys, Global Cosmetic Industry publishes monthly reports breaking down not only the latest ingredients, but also the trends, market data and relevant claims those technologies respond to. From consumer search data to advancements in sustainable chemistry, this regular bulletin will help beauty professionals scope out their next differentiating breakthrough.
Next-level Ingestible Beauty
Beauty x Sleep
Roelmi HPC’s SelectSieve Zen (INCI: Ocimum tenuiflorum (holy basil) (and) Melissa officinalis (lemon balm) (and) Sambucus nigra (elderberry extracts) is an eco-sustainable phytochemical complex designed to promote mental relaxation and mood improvement.
SelectSieve Zen increases circulation of the neurotransmitter gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA), which induces relaxation and reduces anxiety. It also stimulates the hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis to reduce the release of cortisol, the overproduction of which can induce negative health effects.
Per the supplier, the technology improves memory and neuroplasticity via the inhibition of Ach-T and promotes a positive mood by reducing MAO (monoamine oxidase) activity. (MO is an enzyme that eliminates neurotransmitters such as norepinephrine, serotonin and dopamine from the brain.)
The result is improved cognitive function and sleep quality, as well as a general sensation of relaxation and serenity, according to Roelmi HPC. The technology is thereby ideal for beauty supplements that offer additional wellness benefits.
Improving Delivery of Oil-based Ingredients
LandRace Bioscience’s water-soluble Self-Emulsifying Nano-Delivery System (SENDS) blends oils, cannabinoids or other poorly soluble ingredients into beverage, food, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical and topical formulations. The result is better and faster absorption of oil-based ingredients while maintaining taste, color, clarity, and quality.
SENDS does not require shearing or sonication equipment, helping to streamline the manufacturing process and decrease the costs of up-front capital expenditures, human capital, maintenance and yield product loss, per the company.
Reinventing Encapsulation
Researchers from the University of Waterloo may have just rewritten the rules for encapsulation. The experts reportedly invented a simple and low-cost method for accurately encapsulating a liquid core material with a thin liquid film (or films) with controllable thickness by exploiting liquid-liquid interfacial energy differences.
Encapsulation protects core materials against environmental insults and/or enables their timely release to a targeted area. Conventionally, encapsulation has been achieved using a thin coating of polymers, nanoparticles, surfactants and/or powders around a core material, or by wrapping the core material in a thin, flexible solid polymer sheet. Per the Waterloo researchers, however, these methods have limitations such as reduced cargo volume, as well as challenges in controlling the thickness and/or functional properties of the encapsulating layer(s).
The new process, known as a liquid-liquid encapsulation system, introduces a drop of core material through a nozzle, which impacts on a host bath containing a floating shell layer on the surface. When the core material interacts with the shell layer, the shell encapsulates and stably safeguards it.
The method reportedly enables a wide range of core-shell combinations and allows for the design of surface-active, multi-layered (liquid/solid/colloid) capsules, supporting maximum flexibility in designing unique capsules.
“The key to this technology is that everything is in liquid state—the core, the shell and finally submerged inside a liquid bath,” said Sushanta Mitra, Ph.D., executive director, Waterloo Institute for Nanotechnology and professor of mechanical and mechatronics engineering at the university. “This provides extraordinary flexibility in terms of core shell combinations. At least 15 of these types of combinations have already been demonstrated.”
Mitra added that the process is ultra-fast: “[E]ach encapsulation tak[es] only 50 milliseconds. This technology is at least 5,000 times less energy intensive [than conventional encapsulation] and it avoids the introduction of any microplastics in the encapsulation process.”
This technology could be useful in the nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, food and beverage, cosmetic and personal care industries. For example, per the university, the use of soft gel filling encapsulation machines in the nutraceutical industry could reduce operating costs and expand the development and production of new products because multiple core materials can be encapsulated and delivered in the same parcel.
Mitra and his team have reportedly developed a robust prototype system with four injection nozzles that can deliver up to 200,000 cargo-containing encapsulates in one hour. In addition, they are working with partners and product manufacturers in the Netherlands to integrate the curing stage so the encapsulated cargo can be extracted as individual capsules on demand if needed.
“In the end we strive toward being a sustainable and innovative encapsulation entity that meets the UN sustainable development goals,” Mitra said.
12 Top Targets of Aging
A 2023 paper published in the journal Cell and authored by C. López-Otín, et al., has identified 12 key contributors to aging (the first nine were identified in a 2013 paper and updated this year; www.cell.com/fulltext/S0092-8674(13)00645-4), providing a roadmap for beauty brands seeking to hack the aging process. One such company, Dior, has “defined a vision to act not only on the visible consequences of skin aging, but also on its underlying causes, by targeting one or more of these aging hallmarks.”
The 12 hallmarks of aging, as outlined by the paper’s authors, are: genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, disabled macroautophagy, deregulated nutrient-sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, altered intercellular communication, chronic inflammation and dysbiosis. These factors are often interrelated, the authors note, pointing to the need for holistic treatments.
Some of these targets have already been the focus of ingredient innovation. Below are several recent examples.
Telomere attrition: IFF/Lucas Meyer’s IBR-Dormin is made from the Narcissus tazetta (Galilee) bulb and designed to capture and transfer the plant dormancy concept to skin cells, in turn preserving youthful, healthy skin function. When dormant, the bulb produces dormins, i.e., growth inhibitors, that reversibly slow down cell proliferation. According to the company, the ingredient slows skin fibroblast proliferation, preserves telomeres and delays entry into cellular senescence, preserving the capital of the skin and reducing the appearance of wrinkles by improving elasticity.
Epigenetic alterations: Givaudan Active Beauty’s Chronoglow is an active ingredient made by green fractionation and intended to mimic botanical epigenetic mechanisms for skin care benefits. Created from Haberlea rhodopensis, also known as the resurrection plant, Chronoglow is a natural active for the skin designed to reverse the effects of aging and improve its radiance. According to Givaudan, the ingredient rejuvenates the skin at different cellular levels, from epigenetics to protein expression, and protects cells against senescence and oxidation.
Cellular senescence: Roelmi HPC’s Ener-GY Plus reportedly prevents signs of skin fatigue by improving skin elasticity, firmness and radiance. Ener-GY Plus is a cell energizer active ingredient comprising upcycled biologically active solvents rich in fruit oligo-elements. The technology is designed to optimize mitochondrial activation. Due to the Ener-GY Plus’ specific efficacy in supporting mitochondrial biochemical pathways, the active provides positive conditions for metabolism and trophic cell processes. The active promotes ATP production in mitochondria by positively modulating the cell-energizing activity. As a result, it decreases cellular senescence by promoting a high cellular vitality and responsiveness.
Dysbiosis: Novachem’s Oleobiota botanical active, derived from tannin-rich nangapiri from the Argentine Misiones rainforest, is reportedly ideal for oily to combination skin. It is said to modulate the oily microenvironments of the skin and scalp. The ingredient is designed to interact in a “gentle, intelligent and friendly” manner. Per Novachem, Oleobiota prevents dysbiosis, reduces redness, balances microbiota and has a mattifying action. In addition, it reduces and minimizes the appearance of pores, thanks in part to its natural astringency, giving skin a clean and clear sensation.
Mood x Beauty
Clariant’s recent Joyologist skin care concept formulations were designed to soothe the skin and the mind. The formulations highlighted the benefits of Rootness Mood+, which is obtained from the roots of Sanguisorba officinalis using the supplier’s plant milking technology. The root extracts purportedly help trigger the skin’s photoreceptors and promote the uptake of vitamin D, thereby enhancing the beneficial effects of sunlight on human skin, and increase serotonin and melatonin levels by 55% and 120%, respectively.
The Joyologist range included the Feel-Good Magic Stick, an aqueous gel stick that can be applied whenever the user feels the need for a boost in well-being. The stick also contains B-Circadin, which helps re-synchronize the skin cell’s biological clock, and HerbEx Curcuma Extract, which reportedly increases the skin’s stress resilience.
The collection also includes the Forget-It-All Relaxing Mask, featuring Clariant’s Beracare CBA, a blend of copaiba oil and passion fruit seed oil. Copaiba oil is rich in β-caryophyllene, a phytocannabinoid known to interact with the skin’s endocannabinoid system, allowing it to modulate cellular signals to reduce irritation and calm the skin. The actives found in Beraca CBA also reportedly help to rebalance the sensitive skin microbiome by down-regulating certain bacteria linked to inflammation.
The efficacy of Rootness Mood+ has been studied by the supplier. According to Clariant, a clinical study of 36 female participants between ages 30 and 50, all reporting low mood and presenting a dull facial complexion, applied twice daily a product containing 1% Rootness Mood+ to their entire face. Another group used a placebo. Over the course of about a month, the researchers documented skin and mood effects using questionnaires, visual assessments, lab tests, and even an electroencephalography (EEG) device that measures certain brainwaves related to relaxation. Per Clariant, relaxation levels, as recorded by the EEG device, increased by 279% for the study group, while there was no change observed among the control group. This mood-boosting effect is equal to that of a yoga session, according to the company. Furthermore, there were visible improvements to the skin complexion and a significant decrease in carbonylated proteins, a group of stress-related compounds found in the outermost layer of the skin that are known to cause a dull complexion.
Vegan Collagen Boosters
Geltor’s Caviance is a novel vegan polypeptide produced via fermentation that mimics the amino acid sequence of type II sturgeon collagen for skin rejuvenation and soothing. Sturgeons’ skeletons comprise nearly 100% cartilage, featuring high levels of type II collagen, the amino acid sequence of which is rich in cell signaling domains, per the company. This property has benefits for skin rejuvenation, soothing and antioxidant benefits, as well as wound healing in skin care, body care and even color cosmetics.
Elsewhere, Ichimaru Pharcos’ Vegan Proteoglycan is manufactured using sugarcane-derived 1,3-butylene glycol. The ingredient reportedly increases both fibroblast proliferation and collagen production, both of which decline with age. By increasing collagen density, the technology diminishes the appearance of wrinkles, improves skin texture and reduces the appearance of age spots. The technology leverages proteoglycan derived from the ghatti tree, or Anogeissus latifolia.
Hyaluronic Acid Defender
Ichimaru Pharcos’ HyaluGuard (INCI: water, butylene glycol, Artemisia capillaris flower) is an anti-aging skin care active ingredient designed for facial care, body care, lip care and makeup applications. The technology reportedly defends hyaluronic acid (HA) from breakdown by inhibiting HYBID, an HA degradation enzyme, thereby increasing the moisture content of the skin and reducing the appearance of wrinkles and skin sagging. HyaluGuard leverages Artemisia capillaris from Japan.
Anti-glycation Blend
MMP’s Flav’ential AGE is a blend of Pueraria lobata root extract (puerarin) and chlorogenic acids (Eucommia ulmoides) with anti-glycation activity. Combined, the components protect fibrillin and the elastic network from degradation and inhibit the formation of inflammatory advanced glycation end products (AGEs). Elevated levels of AGEs are responsible for skin discoloration, lack of elasticity and deepened wrinkles.
New Anti-acne Tools
Precision Microbiome Balancing
Biocogent’s DermaPhage CA is a bio-active designed to target acne-causing microbes. The ingredient comprises three lytic bacteriophages, which attack C. acnes bacteria to selectively diminish the overpopulation of “problematic” microbiome residents to restore the natural balance on the skin. Skin’s quality is therefore improved by eliminating C. acnes strains that can stimulate sebum production and inflammation in the skin. DermaPhage CA also reduces the formation of harmful biofilms. In clinical trials, the ingredient reportedly visibly reduced the amounts of coproporphyrin III on the face. The technology is therefore applicable in face and body products.
Antioxidant Powerhouse for Acne
Cobiosa’s C99+ Hydroxysol combines 99% pure hydroxytyrosol produced via biotechnology and the chicory-derived polysaccharide, inulin. The combined high polyphenol content delivers high antioxidant capacity (reportedly 13x vitamin C and 3x coenzyme Q10) and boosts collagen and elastin fibers to help rebuild the skin. In formulations, the technology can treat acne and promote skin evenness. Per the manufacturer, the ingredient reduces wrinkles by 6% in 28 days and 14% after 56 days. C99+ Hydroxysol is distributed in the United States and Canada by MMP Inc.
Mushroom-derived Hydration & Anti-aging
Integrity Ingredients’ IntegriMoist Silver Ear Mushroom Powder Extract for skin care is derived from Tremella fuciformis sporocarp. The silver ear mushroom has been cherished in Asian cultures for centuries due to its hydrating and rejuvenating properties.
The ingredient offers nutrients, including amino acids, vitamins, minerals and polysaccharides. Its main ingredient, glucuronic acid, is known for its ability to bind moisture to the skin for hydration. This extract plumps fine lines and wrinkles and enhances skin elasticity, leaving the skin smooth and supple with a nice texture.
The ingredient also offers strong antioxidant properties, protecting the skin from free radical damage and premature aging. Its natural anti-inflammatory effects soothe and calm the skin, allowing it to be formulated for acne-prone and sensitive skin types.
Vacuum Distillation-centric Brand
Facewater, a new brand from Plant Beauty Distillery, features plant-based cleansers, toners, moisturizers and other skin care SKUs. The brand leverages pre-press and low-heat vacuum distillation to derive phytonutrients from botanicals for application in its water-based products, which are highly absorbent and skin-compatible. The Plant Venom Alt Retinol, for instance, is a gentle formulation that features bakuchiol and distilled bakuchi seeds to improve skin elasticity and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. The ‘Shroom Moisture Boom, meanwhile, highlights distilled snow mushroom (rich in kojic acid) and low-molecular-weight hyaluronate. The formulation addresses dark spots and under-eye circles while enhancing the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Finally, the antioxidant Serumato targets dark spots caused by the sun, pollution and other environmental aggressors with stabilized vitamin C and tomato-derived lycopene.
Antimicrobial Tech for Sensitive Skin
Jover Scientech’s Vercatech Pentyforce G (INCI: pentylene glycol (and) glyceryl caprylate) is a natural, multifunctional ingredient with broad-spectrum antimicrobial properties optimized for atopic skins. The ingredient reportedly reduces TEWL and is gentle on the skin’s microbiota. Vercatech Pentyforce G is distributed in the United States and Canada by MMP Inc.
Synthetic Quat Alternative
Croda’s Incromine BD (INCI: behenamidopropyl dimethylamine) comprises 73% naturally derived content according to ISO 16128, is readily biodegradable, halal and is vegan-suitable. The technology offers anti-frizz benefits and therefore serves as an alternative to synthetic quats.
New Approaches to Silicones
Wacker recently launched several silicone elastomer gels for cosmetics and hair care, showcasing a more sustainable approach to silicones. Previously, conventional silicone elastomer gels were often formulated with volatile siloxanes. Instead of a siloxane-based solvent, these latest Wacker products contain organic substances and stabilize the gel’s crosspolymer network to enhance spreadability. The range includes:
- Belsil EG 3000 (INCI: isohexadecane, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer), a transparent silicone elastomer gel that offers a pleasant skin feel for use as an additive in products such as moisturizing creams, foundations and deodorants.
- Belsil eco EG 3001 (INCI: undecane, tridecane, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone crosspolymer), a colorless, translucent elastomer gel that is light and powdery.
Elsewhere, Sensient’s Natpure Feel-M Eco (INCI: isopropyl palmitate, octyldodecanol, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate) is a multifunctional material that behaves as an alternative to silicone. In formulations, the technology offers a conditioning effect and can be applied in skin care, bath and shower products, hair care, sun care, makeup (lip, face, nail, etc.), and more.
Controlling Melanin Production
MMP’s Flav’ential BLM comprises a blend of flavonoids—baicalin, luteolin and myricetin—with strong anti-tyrosinase activity. Combined, the components work to limit melanin formation, which in turn can prevent unwanted dark spots. The technology reportedly is well tolerated on skin.
Multifunctional Hair Technology
Sensient’s Sensibiopro P (INCI: hydrolyzed pea protein) hydrolyzed pea protein imparts shine, frizz control and hair strengthening in hair care formulations. Ideal for all hair types, including processed hair, the ingredient offers skin care benefits as well, moisturizing the skin and scalp.
Low-carbon Formulation Tools
Decarbonization of the beauty supply chain is a movement that’s just begun to pick up steam. Suppliers play a central role in helping brands and their innovation partners meet decarbonization goals. For instance, Clariant’s Vita line of biobased surfactants and PEG products were conceived with a high renewable carbon index (RCI), allowing products to maximize their green carbon content while removing fossil carbon from the value chain—without a decline in performance.
These ingredients are based on green carbon made from plants via bioethanol and other oleochemical sources, per Clariant, with fully segregated material flows of sugarcane or corn to the final ingredient. Adoption of these materials can reportedly help make significant CO2 emission cuts from the value chain.
Clariant has also developed multifunctional, fully renewable-based preservative boosters to reduce the reliance on traditional preservatives. Its Velsan line cuts the amount of conventional preservatives required in a formulation while simultaneously acting as an emollient and/or emulsifier, depending on the formulation.
Next-level Surfactants
Sisterna’s SP70-C is a non-ionic surfactant sucrose stearate based on sucrose and vegetable fatty acids. The technology is part of a wider range that imparts preferred skin feel and improved smoothness, emolliency and moisture levels to the skin. The technology is distributed in the United States and Canada by MMP Inc.
Meanwhile, Indorama Ventures’ Surfonic Bio is a line of biosurfactants that offers low toxicity, mildness and biodegradability benefits—all derived from renewable sources. According to the company, the line works well with other classes of surfactants and can be used as a primary or secondary surfactant in formulations. The Surfonic line contains specialty wetting agents, emulsifiers and dispersants.
Applications of products in the line, including Surfonic Bio 5000, include:
- Facial cleansers, makeup removal, anti-acne products
- Shower gel, liquid soaps and intimate hygiene soaps
- Moisturizing skin care products
- Shampoos, conditioners, scalp care and deodorant products
Biodegradable Anti-bacterial System for Wipes
Sharon Personal Care’s SharoWipes clean label, eco-friendly preservative system is free from phenoxyethanol, parabens, CIT/MIT and formaldehyde donors. In products, the technology reportedly protects both the formula and the nonwoven material. SharoWIPES leverages broad-spectrum bacteria defense and an anti-biofilm mechanism to prevent bacterial adherence. The water-soluble, vegan and readily biodegradable solution is reportedly effective at usage levels of less than 1%.
“Preservation of wet wipes is known to be a very challenging issue,” said Paul Salama, Ph.D., chief technical officer and head of innovation at Sharon Personal Care. “The unique product characteristics of wipes introduce microbiological risks for both the formula and the fabric, and ingredient safety concerns are especially high with wet wipes, since they are used for baby care and on sensitive areas. Our SharoWipes line was created following in-depth research to address these challenges. The solutions in this line are optimized with carefully selected hydrophilic components that are combined with a unique anti-biofilm mechanism to deliver an ultimate level of protection for the wipe and formula.”
Fruit-derived Beauty
Multifunctional Kalahari Melon Seed Oil
Kupanda’s Elula Kalahari Melon Seed Oil (INCI: Citrullus lanatus seed oil), derived from the Kalahari Desert, is a smaller and rounder cousin of the watermelon. Its bitter pulp is yellow-green and features oil-rich brown seeds. In formulations, the seed oil provides skin barrier protection, defends against environmental stressors such as pollution, balances the microbiome to cleanse and eliminate blemishes, and serves as an antioxidant. The oil is rich in vitamin E; linoleic, oleic, palmitic and stearic fatty acids; and γ-tocopherol, β-sitosterol, campesterol and squalene. The ingredient is appropriate for facial cleansing gels and scrubs, hand and body creams and lotions, body massage oils, aromatherapy oils, hand soap bars and liquid soap, and lip balm and repair creams, as well as lipstick.
Wild Plum Rejuvenator for Skin & Hair
Kupanda’s Mideka Ximenia Oil (INCI: Ximenia americana (ximenia) seed oil), sourced from Zimbabwe and known as “wild plum” oil, can be applied as an emollient, conditioner, skin softener, and in other hair and body applications, per the company. Mideka Ximenia Oil counteracts the impacts of environmental pollution stressors due to its antioxidant properties, which derive from high levels of phytosterols such as lupeol, β-amyrin and β-sitosterol. It also features monoenoic acids, including ximenynic acid, a microcirculatory stimulator, making it ideal for skin and hair follicle rejuvenation. Finally, the oil’s tocotrienol content delivers antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity. The oil is applicable in anti-aging creams and nano-emulsions; shampoos, conditioners, scalp masks and leave-in lotions for hair growth; facial gels, serums and cleansers; lip care; and moisturizing/hydtrationg creams and lotions, as well as body massage products.
A Natural Blue from Fruit
Ecoflora, based in Colombia, is tapping jagua (Genipa americana) fruit to source a natural blue color that can be applied in beauty products, among other applications. The natural colorant is derived from the juice of the fruit, which contains the compound genipin. When glycine is mixed with the juice and heated, the genipin reacts with the amino acid to produce the blue colora. Ecoflora’s blue pigment is soluble in water and temperature- and pH-stable.
Reinventing Ingredient Delivery
Beverly Glen Laboratories, Inc. has launched NuvoSome, a drug delivery system for cosmetics. Per the company, NuvoSomes are nanocapsules capable of encapsulating a variety of cosmetic ingredients to enhance ingredient stability and ingredient performance and feature a lipophilic group and a hydrophilic group, making these vesicles both lipid- and water-compatible.
NuvoSome was designed and developed in Japan and has undergone pharmaceutical and clinical testing. According to the company, Nuvosome has been proven to penetrate the skin barrier effectively and has shown to be safe for cosmetics, allowing companies to create products that deliver active ingredients.
α-Bisabolol Gets a Sustainable Upgrade
Aneco’s BioSyn-Bisabolol (INCI: α-bisabolol) is a sustainable ingredient produced through large-scale fermentation. According to Aneco, the green production method used to generate the ingredient protects biodiversity and plays a positive role in the overall ecological environment by relying on 100% biobased carbon. The process used by the company is said to offer greater physiological activity compared to the synthetic source of α-bisabolol.
α-Bisabolol has been used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years. With a wide range of uses, the ingredient offers anti-inflammatory and skin soothing benefits, supports barrier repair, and can protect the skin from daily stress, per Aneco. It is particularly suitable for products for sensitive skin care, baby care and after-sun applications.