Acquisitions, Journal Publications, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Early June 2013

Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. acquired the total shares indirectly held by General Electric Company (GE) of Asia Silicones Monomer Limited (ASM), which had been jointly managed by GE and Shin-Etsu. As of May 17, 2013, ASM became an indirectly wholly owned Shin-Etsu Chemical Group company. Shin-Etsu Chemical acquired the shares for about $15 billion. The aim of Shin-Etsu Chemical in making ASM a 100%-owned Shin-Etsu Group company is to further integrate the operations of ASM with those of Shin-Etsu Silicones (Thailand) Limited, which manufactures and sells silicone end-products. By these means, Shin-Etsu will expand its business in the Asian region by optimizing the efficiency of its silicone business operations in Thailand.

Sabinsa Corporation’s SabiLize, a natural preservative composition, has been granted U.S. Patent 8329095 for its application as an antioxidant/antimicrobial preservative component for prepasteurized cosmetic formulations. In order to address the challenge in finding a natural preservative for topical products, the R&D team at Sabinsa developed SabiLize New. At 0.5% in creams, it was found to be significantly effective against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, as well as Candida albicans and Aspergillus niger. The constituents of SabiLize New are completely natural, effective at significantly low doses, have significant antioxidant potential and also have a broad spectrum of antimicrobial activity.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Estelle Loing, Elisabeth LaMarque and Magali Borel had an article, “A Sustainable Global Solution for Cellulite and Stretch Marks,” accepted for publication into the SOFW Journal: International Journal for Applied Science for Personal Care, Detergents and Specialties. The aim of the study presented in the article was to design and characterize new body skin enhancer Body3 Complex, which features three ingredients: a non-torrefied shea butter extract, an avocado seed extract, and bentonite. The paper offers scientific evidence that Body3 Complex acts as a global body skin enhancer to improve cellulite appearance, increase skin firmness, and smooth stretch marks.

GreenTech acquired a new, modern building for its head office and the expansion of its production facilities. The new space offers lab space, as well as more storage areas, and it helps increase manufacturing space with room for new tools, such as a continuous extractor.

From June 10 to June 12, BASF will take part in the 9th World Surfactants Congress and Business Convention in Barcelona. The congress is conducted by CESIO, the European Surfactants Association, and will offer a platform for experts in the field of surfactants. Under the theme “Surfactants Today and Tomorrow – Mapping the Megatrends,” the congress focuses on current global issues and solutions based on surfactants. BASF will give insight into its expertise as well as into its broad product portfolio, which offers more options for intelligent new solutions in strongly differentiated applications fields such as home and personal care.

Provital’s new ingredient Melavoid, a smart depigmentant, won first prize in the category of “Most Innovative Raw Material” during the BSB Innovation Prize ceremony hel during the 2013 in-cosmetics. Provital ingredients are distributed exclusively by Centerchem in North America.

Symrise was recognized for its achievements five times at in-cosmetics 2013. At the Innovation Zone, SymHair Force 1631 won a silver award as best ingredient, while Dr. Klaus Stanzl, president of life essentials at Symrise, was acknowledged for his lifetime achievements. Also, SymFit Nat 1750 won a first prize, while Sym3D and SymBronze 1659 won a second prize each, at the BSB awards ceremony.

The Dow Chemical Company highlighted two of its innovations, the EcoSense 300 surfactant and MoistStar HA+ moisturizing technology, at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day.

Also at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day, Presperse offered information about Luminesse, which combines the anti-inflammatory power of natural plant extracts with a stable form of vitamin C for a boost in collagen that improves texture and reduces the appearance of fine lines in skin, and Acqua Pelle AP-300, a novel, water based, polymeric thickener that is activated by salts and surfactants. This activation property allows product developers to create novel, non-pilling emulsion and surfactant systems without the formulation limitations typically experienced in the presence of salt and salt-based materials.

Also participating at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers Day Event, TRI-K featured its TRIglyphix Sense ingredient as a sensitive skin active, AnaGain to stimulate hair growth, the PhytoCellTec Symphytum plant stem cells, Quinoa Pro EX for hair color retention, DermaPep A440 for anti-aging, Regenine for exfoliation, TRIShield TS-510 as a broad-spectrum sunscreen, SulforaWhite and NanoWhite for brightening, Galsoft SCI for moisturizing, PerfectionPeptide P3 for skin rejuvenation, DermaPep W411 for whitening, Ameliox for anti-glycation, and Galsoft SCG for mild softness.

Lubrizol showcased its new Carbopol Ultrez 30 polymer at the 6th Cosmetic Ingredients & Technology Exhibition (CITE) Japan. Additionally, other new product offerings the company showcased at CITE Japan include dthe new Novemer EC-2 polymer, the Schercemol CATC ester and the Glucamate VLT thickener.

IFC, a member of the World Bank Group, is partnering with non-profit organizations PhytoTrade Africa and the Union for Ethical BioTrade to promote ethical sourcing of products by the private sector in Tanzania, Mozambique and Malawi. The partnership will contribute to protect nature and reduce poverty in these countries.

New Launches

Newly launched Beracare DPS (Dermal Protective Active System) is Beraca’s first active ingredient to act in the dermal layer, contributing to skin protection and regeneration. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties protect the skin from damage caused by UVA rays, as well as help improve and maintain skin’s elasticity. Suitable for use in skin care products, firming lotions and anti-aging products, Beracare DPS improves fibroblast functionality and protective ability against oxidative stress and inflammatory stimuli, promoting a healthier and more balanced skin.

Beraca also launched Patauá Oil. Sourced from the fruit of an Amazonian palm tree, patauá oil is a powerful moisturizing agent with high oleic acid content (75%) and unique properties such as transparency and light, non-greasy feel. It can be used as a substitute for olive oil in skin care and hair care products due to similarities in their fatty acid chain.

Looking to develop a benzoyl peroxide for acne products, Essential Ingredients created Curoxyl 42, Benzoyl Peroxide Gel, USP, a non-irritating form of benzoyl peroxide. Curoxyl 42 has been shown in a semi-occlusive RIPT study of 100 participants to be both a non-primary irritant and a non-primary sensitizer to human skin when used at an active benzoyl peroxide level of 10%. To further this research, Curoxyl 42 was compared to a of larger particle size form of benzoyl peroxide on a group of super stinger subjects (those with very sensitive skin). Each formula contained a 10% active level of benzoyl peroxide. In this double-blind, clinical trial of super stinger subjects, Curoxyl 42 was shown to be 37% less irritating than the control benzoyl peroxide particles which average ten times larger than those in Curoxyl. IT can be the starting point for topically applied anti-acne creams, anti-acne wipes, face and body washes, and cleansers.

Dow Corning introduced Dow Corning CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. The nonionic silicone emulsion imparts a moisturizing feel and conditioning benefits to hair, as well as enhances shine, flexibility and protection against heat and color fading without weighing hair down. Using the new technology, consumers can now achieve a silky, slippery quality to their hair. Dow Corning CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion is easy to formulate in water-based hair care products such as luxury rinse-off conditioners and shampoos.

Also, Dow Corning unveiled two new programs for hair shine and hair repair at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. The new programs offer several new and existing specialty silicones to help product developers meet rising consumer demand for hair care products that counteract the effects of aging, help express individual style, maintain health and well-being, and provide an enjoyable sensory experience. The new Hair Shine program addresses two major macro trends: consumers’ desire to reverse the effects of aging and their preference for a healthy look and feel. Dow Corning specialty silicones intensify the luster of many hair types and help deliver heat and color protection, enhanced hair strength, improved feel and frizz control, and when Dow Corning’s range of specialty silicones for age-defying hair shine are combined with Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid, it is possible to prepare water-in-oil formulations that deliver greater shine and luster than anhydrous serums at the same or lower nonvolatile content. Also, another product, Dow Corning 2-2078 Fluid, is a liquid amino phenyl silicone resin for water-based and anhydrous formulations that provides long-lasting shine in leave-in and styling products, such as sprays, relaxers and conditioners. Dow Corning’s new Hair Repair program addresses consumer demand for products that repair colored, aging and heat-damaged hair, or that protect hair from further damage and color loss. Dow Corning hair repair silicones enhance the sensory feel of hair, particularly the sensation of moisturizing, and provide a smooth, supple feel without weighing hair down, as well as resist breakage and improve ease of combing and manageability. Dow Corning CE-8411 Smooth Plus Emulsion is a nonionic silicone emulsion for luxury rinse-off shampoos and conditioners that provides a moisturizing feel and conditioning benefits while enhancing shine and protection against color fading. Another product in the portfolio is Dow Corning HMW 2220 Non-Ionic Emulsion, which allows incorporation of extremely high-viscosity polymer into water-based formulations, such as shampoos, rinse-off and leave-in conditioners and styling products for smoothness, ease of combing and hair alignment.

Alban Muller is launching two new products developed in compliance with its eco-responsible approach. Repulpami ER is a global anti-aging active that works to plump and firm skin for anti-wrinkle products. Developed by bringing together white hibiscus baobab, it targets the factors responsible for the visible signs of skin aging, and it is an excellent active for global anti-aging face care products, mature skin care products, anti-wrinkle, resurfacing, firming, plumping products, lip, bust, neck and décolleté care products, firming products for the arms. Also, Amiox ER is a natural antioxidant concentrated rosemary extract with active principles that works to protect oil-soluble ingredients and cosmetics formulas.

AkzoNobel Personal Care developed a new benchtop kit that puts the multi-faceted potential for sustainability and cost-effectivenss right at hair care product developers’ fingertips. The kit brings together the BioStyle CGP fixative polymer, the Amaze XT styling polymer and the Structure Style polymer (all naturally derived and renewable resources), allowing developers to choose ingredients that best meet product requirements, including the highest possible clarity, the most natural finished product, or the most economical system.

CA Botana International created several novel peptide formulations aimed to improve the skin's ability to defy aging, and that provide a more youthful, vibrant appearance to the skin. Bioactive peptides of high purity (>95%) and proven efficacy in vivo are incorporated the formulations, along with pure botanical extracts. In addition, CA Botana encapsulates the peptide and botanical extracts using their advanced skin care delivery system Alphasomes. The formulations include CAB Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-5 for anti-wrinkle and skin rejuvenation products; CAB Oligo Peptide-4 for irritated or itchy skin; CAB Copper Tripeptide-1 for acne, oily and blemished skin products; CAB Biotin Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-18 to help prevent hair loss and promote hair growth; and CAB Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-21, also for anti-wrinkle and skin regeneration products.

Clariant highlighted its new Aristoflex Velvet polymer, an advanced new ingredient for skin care products that takes moisturization and cleansing beyond functionality to create a luxurious and long-lasting sensory experience, at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day. It also discussed its new Secret Code of Beauty concept that combines five codes,to support the success of Clariant’s customers and address growing trends in the beauty industry.

Sekisui Specialty Chemicals launched five new cosmetic grade polymers. The new grades were introduced under the Selvol Ultalux brand at the 2013 NYSCC Suppliers’ Day event, and they include Ultalux FP, Ultalux FA, and Ultalux FF, which are equivalent to the most popular Selvol PVOH grades. They are excellent additions to beauty and skin care products due to their wide spectrum of performance attributes, including excellent adhesion, a range of viscosities, and good tensile properties. Also, testing has demonstrated that Ultalux FA is non-irritating and delivers active ingredients several layers into the skin.

Botanic Innovations launched Camelina seed oil for use in beauty and personal care products. Camelina seed oil has about 25-30% omega 3 content, compared to flax oil at 55–59%, but has significantly higher vitamin E content. Also, Camelina oil is more self-preserving and shelf stable, and it also has gadoleic acid known for its skin health benefits. It has extensive applications in cosmetics and personal care products, including soaps and detergents. In skin care products in particular, it helps moisturize skin.

Momentive Performance Materials debuted two new silicone blends that offer multifunctionality to beauty product developers. The Silsoft E-Pearl PF emulsion provides a desirable sensory experience with moist feel, line blurring and skin brightening effects, and the product adds a soft, smooth, silky feel to products and has good lubricity and spreadability. It uses light diffusion effects to blur fine lines and wrinkles, has non-ionic properties, is moisturizing, and can be used in skin care, sun care, color cosmetics, and lotions and creams. Also, Velvesil Mul-T gel is a starting point to consider for a large variety of multi-claim formulations. Due to its silicone composition, it can deliver a luxurious feel, enhance natural coverage, and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It is recommended for color cosmetics, skin care, oil absorption products for acne and shine control, sunscreens, and serums, concealer sticks and pressed powders.

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