Soho Aneco Chemicals Co., Ltd., recently developed a water soluble hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR) using co-solvency. Known as AC-HPR-W2 SACOS, the ingredient launched at in-cosmetics Asia in November 2024.
The new ingredient comes after the company's 2019 introductions of AC-HPR (a powder with high purity, up to 99%) and AC-HPR-S10 (a 10% oil soluble HPR). Per the company, HPR is a new-generation, direct-acting retinol and one of the most bioavailable forms of vitamin A — for which the company was granted an invention patent.
Stabler, Milder, Water Soluble HPR
HPR has been expanding in market share for anti-aging applications and is 'likely to replace [the] vitamin A that is widely used.'"
HPR (INCI: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) is synthesized from retinoic acid and small molecule pinacol. According to the company, it is milder and more stable than other forms of vitamin A. The latest edition, AC-HPR-W2 SACOS, is a 2% water soluble HPR that is said to "solve the application problem of HPR in aqueous systems."
"We use two or more mixed solvents to improve the solubility of some insoluble ingredients," the company explained. "When each solvent in the mixed solution reaches a certain proportion, the solubility of the ingredient will reach a maximum. [This] can improve the solubility and the bioavailability of HPR."
According to the company, HPR has been expanding in market share for anti-aging applications and is "likely to replace [the] vitamin A that is widely used."
Clinical Safety, Stability of HPR
A series of clinical data is said to support the efficacy of Soho Aneco's HPR. In addition, safety and stability testing were carried out.
Results indicated the HPR:
- is non-irritating,
- has high purity,
- shows enhanced activity, and
- is of a low molecular weight and easily absorbed.
