Bath & Body Care Ingredient Trends
Global Cosmetic Industry spoke with beauty insiders to highlight what is trending in the bath and body care, skin care and packaging industries.
- dsm-firmenich Personal Care
- Givaudan Active Beauty
- Mibelle Group Biochemistry
- Premium Label & Packaging Solutions
- Seacliff Beauty
Brian Grady, senior marketing specialist at dsm-firmenich Personal Care, says, “Skinification continues to be one of the key trends in bath & body care ingredients. The skin on your body is just as important as the skin on your face. Brands are launching new bath and body care products with ingredients that you would typically find in facial skin care products. These products continue to resonate with consumers as they understand the importance of using high-quality and effective ingredients on their body. We can expect this trend will continue to gain momentum over the next few years.”
Grady continues, “dsm-firmenich has new in-vivo data for Pentavitin (INCI: saccharide isomerate), a 100% natural and sustainable moisturizer, for use in a post-shower body moisturizer. It was demonstrated that the use of Pentavitin (0.2%) in a body moisturizer boosts skin moisture by 275% compared to placebo just eight hours after a single application (T2). Additionally, it was shown that repeated use of Pentavitin (0.2%) in a body moisturizer (T4 and T6) after daily showering guarantees a strong cumulative moisture recovery effect. There were 150% and 450% increases in moisture recovery at Day 2: T4 and Day 3: T6, respectively. These data clearly demonstrate the strong moisturizing benefits achieved using Pentavitin.”
Deanna Mulicka, technical marketing manager, Acme-Hardesty, says, “Over the last few months, consumers are more interested than ever before in showing love to the skin below the chin. Traditionally, body care products like lotions, body washes, and scrubs have mainly targeted external concerns such as moisturization and exfoliation. Consumers are now more aware and educated about the importance of maintaining healthy skin, not only on their faces but also throughout their bodies. We’ve noticed a sharp rise in demand for body care products that provide the same level of care and attention as facial skin care routines. Body care products are now formulated with advanced ingredients that were traditionally reserved for facial skincare. Hyaluronic acid, retinol, niacinamide, and antioxidants are being incorporated into body care formats, providing enhanced hydration, anti-aging benefits, and overall skin rejuvenation. Body-focused treatments like body masks and peels to body serums and oils that exfoliate, brighten, and tone the skin continue to gain favor with consumers as they seek out products that are not only effective but also eco-friendly, cruelty-free, and free from harmful ingredients.”
Mulicka continues, “EnTiv Azelaic Acid is a favorite for facial care that we love for anti-acne body care applications. EnTiv Azelaic Acid is keratolytic and works deep within pores to gently exfoliate skin and remove dead cells. It is comedolytic and serves as a natural alternative to salicylic acid and its antibacterial properties help fight acne-causing bacteria to keep breakouts at bay. Botaniplex Balance SC is a body care favorite for products targeting the topical microbiome. When the skin microbiome is disrupted, it can lead to imbalances that compromise the integrity of the skin barrier and microbiome-friendly cleansers are formulated to maintain the delicate balance of beneficial bacteria on your skin. Designed to restore a healthy balance to damaged, irritated, oily skin and scalp. It also helps re-balance imbalanced skin due to fungal acne and dandruff often associated with S. capitis, P. acnes, and Malassezia pathogenesis. It has prebiotic and antimicrobial effects that restore microbiome balance and alleviate both acne and dandruff, and helps to decrease secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines.”
Philip Chung, vice president of sales, Biosil, says, “Optimizing efficacy via smart delivery systems: Time-release, smart encapsulation and nanosome technology are some of the new smart technologies that could improve the impact of bath and body care formulas. Biosil Technologies has launched two new ingredients, Slendyl, which increases firmness and reshapes the silhouette, and Slimagine, which provides slimming and anti-cellulite.”
Skin Care Ingredient Trends
Camille Desperiez, marketing project leader, Silab, says, “Driven by the emergence of the concept of diversity, equity, and inclusion (DEI), the reprioritization of individual needs progressively drew a new face to beauty, where every individual neither feels excluded nor marginalized. This approach now extends beyond skin color to encompass the specific characteristics of each ethnic group, gender, or stage of life. The study of these structural and functional skin specificities provoked a strong response in dermatology, allowing the cosmetic industry to exalt a “plural beauty”: more homogeneous, less codified and less stereotyped. Recently, SILAB developed a unique approach on this topic: the company identified the main skin characteristics of consumers according to ethnicity, gender, and age in order to outline the profile of a universal beauty. Three expectations stand out: a beautiful skin quality (characterized by skin hydration and fine skin texture for a smoothed microrelief), an even, radiant complexion (free from spots related to post-inflammatory scars and skin aging) and reduced signs of aging (thanks to firmer skin and faded wrinkles).”
Desperiez continues, “Based on these results, Silab launched Inclusium, a multifunctional natural active ingredient that enhances the beauty of all skin types. Enriched in alfalfa galactomannans, it stimulates the biological pathways essential to epidermal and dermal functionalities. This transversal activity spectrum of Inclusium was identified thanks to the combination of Silab's expertise in tissue engineering and in transcriptomics. Evaluated on mixed gender groups with young and mature, Caucasian, Asian, Latin-American, and African American panels, this active ingredient meets universal cosmetic expectations thanks to its hydra-smoothing and complexion perfector powers as of seven days of treatment, and to its clinically proven anti-aging effect.”
Melanie Duprat, category manager and sustainability representative at Givaudan Active Beauty, says, “People are now emerging from the pandemic keen to refocus on themselves. Benefits around supporting intimacy and connection will strengthen the connection to wellness. More people are embracing intimate wellness as a crucial component of physical and mental health. For this reason consumers are becoming more comfortable talking about intimate wellness. The main consequence in the cosmetics industry is the interest in products for intimate personal care is growing as people look to address their private needs. We are seeing a movement towards a more positive view of intimacy, as a way to reconnect with oneself or other, based on acceptance, confidence and empowerment.”
Duprat continues, “This new way of perceiving well being, creates the appearance of skintimate care: Intimate care as an extension of skin care: from hydration, microbiome balance, and soothing to private beauty, the skin of the intimate parts of the body can also benefits from skincare ingredients to improve comfort and wellness. Knowing that 75% of women will have at least one episode of vulvovaginal candidiasis in their life, supporting and protecting the microbiome is an important element in creating products that appeal to consumers, who are still concerned that these intimate hygiene formulas can disrupt vaginal health. This is why Givaudan Active Beauty’s Cranberry oil perfectly matches with this new trend. Known for its antioxidant properties and soothing qualities, Cranberry oil is a 100% natural, and regenerative ingredient with also benefits in intimate care. The upcycled oil from cranberry seeds restores the intimate flora improving comfort and preventing dysbiosis.”
Nina Esposito, area sales and marketing director, Provital, says, “Two ingredient trends currently showcased in the skin care industry are the emphasis on quality-focused ingredients and the growing interest and use in ingredients that stimulate a mind-body connection. Consumers are increasingly prioritizing the quality of ingredients in their entirety, seeking quantified efficacy and hero molecules from sustainable and verified sources. This has given rise to a trend in green chemistry and biobased alternatives, with a focus on ingredients like plant stem cells and ferments from vegan sources. Simultaneously, there's a rising awareness in the mind-body impact within skin care. Ingredients with scientifically backed claims to enhance moods while also improving skin health are gaining popularity. As brands increasingly recognize the importance of holistic wellness to consumers, formulations that contribute to both looking good and feeling confident are becoming sought after in the beauty care space. Together, these dual trends reflect a consumer desire for not only skin care with results but also a mindful and inclusive approach to one’s overall well-being.”
Esposito continues, “Provital has introduced two cutting-edge launches in the past 6 months, aligning with the green chemistry and bio-based alternative ingredient trend. Provital's award winning Altheostem stands out not only for its sustainability but also for its remarkable clinical efficacy. Leveraging a biotechnology platform, this innovative ingredient is derived from lab-grown stem cells from the petals of Althaea rosaea. Notably, Altheostem exhibits a tailored biological action on senescent skin cells; not only preventing them but also selectively eliminating them with its proven senolytic activity. Beyond in vivo benefits of healthier and more youthful skin, the use of AI has scientifically demonstrated that this dermohacking ingredient helps individuals appear up to three years younger. Provital's most recent launch, Circanblue, is a postbiotic active ingredient derived from the vegan fermentation of Lactococcus lactis. Particularly beneficial for skin altered by excessive exposure to blue light, in vitro studies showcase its ability to resynchronize our cellular circadian rhythm. Circanblue restores balance to this innate system, supporting proper repair mechanisms and sleep wellness to elicit a beauty restorative effect and address the challenges posed by modern lifestyles and digital exposures.”
Desperiez says, “The growing interest in the wellness market reflects a notable change in consumer behavior and the new priority given to the better consideration of their desires and their well-being. In the context of the beauty industry, health, whether physical or mental, plays a key role in the strategy of brands that wish to establish the relationship between the psychological state and the skin quality and radiance. To meet these expectations, the active ingredients used need to be effective and also include the sensory perception dimension. They also help to consolidate brand strategies in the promise of a better quality of life through soothing or stimulating actions, or by modulating certain receptors involved in the synthesis of neuromediators. Thanks to these active ingredients, certain brands reinforce their positioning focused on spirituality, well-being and better awareness of one's body while giving them powerful scientific credibility.”
Desperiez continues, “One of Silab’s latest launches perfectly meets these expectations. Myoline is a relaxing natural active ingredient from watercress. Thanks to its mineral-rich composition, it targets the behavioral and biological consequences of psychological stress by reducing muscle contraction (action on the neuromuscular junction) and providing a wellness effect (stimulation of stress response mediators and receptors). As a genuine plant ‘botox-like,’ Myoline reduces expression lines as of five days in young and mature volunteers. Also, the skin’s barrier function is reinforced, for long-lasting moisturizing and radiance-boosting effects.”
Allison Garlet, marketing manager—bioactives, North America, BASF, says, “The next chapter of wellness will be mind-body beauty, where mental well-being and physical appearance are interconnected. Consumers are prioritizing wellness to feel better in body and mind. There is a shift towards elevated adaptogens which are high-performing, multifunctional, and sustainable solutions which are nutrient rich.”
Garlet continues, “Inolixir is a potent adaptogenic chaga extract using sustainable subcritical water extraction. Utilizing a powerful green extraction technique known as subcritical water extraction, Inolixir undergoes a fast and optimized extraction process that amplifies its antioxidant and calming characteristics. Inolixir promotes the appearance of healthy, calm and rejuvenated skin, reducing the appearance of dark circles and wrinkles from exhaustion and stress, as well as supporting a healthy skin barrier and overall feeling of soothing and comfort.”
Garlet says, “The beauty industry is experiencing a paradigm shift as consumers increasingly seek products that prioritize efficacy and functionality over flashy campaigns. The emerging ‘sophisticated simplicity’ trend emphasizes the quality of ingredients, the proven effectiveness of products and the reassurance of simplicity. Many beauty enthusiasts will seek scientific evidence to support product claims. Brands that can provide research, clinical studies or certifications to substantiate their claims of effectiveness will gain credibility and trust. Demonstrating the scientific basis behind a product will help consumers feel confident that they are investing in solutions that deliver tangible results.”
Garlet continues, “Hyalurosmooth is a purified polysaccharides from the seeds of Indian Cassia. Extracted from the Indian Cassia angustifolia, Hyalurosmooth concentrates all the benefits of a mindful lifestyle to cope with the unavoidable effects of stress. With an intense wave of hydration, Hyalurosmooth helps the skin recover its natural balance and radiance for a perceivably smoother and softer feel. This botanical alternative to hyaluronic acid gives a silky complexion within minutes, and keeps skin hydrated for 24 hours.”
Christine Meier, senior digital marketing manager, Mibelle Group Biochemistry, says, “Biotechnology remains an important trend in the skin care sector. As natural resources are finite, biotechnology serves as an alternative as it allows to cultivate rare plants without the need of soil and lots of water. Also, indoor farming could be an interesting source for new innovative skin care ingredients. Further, we see that the longevity trend has also reached skincare, which I think is a really interesting topic and we will probably see more launches in the future addressing this trend.”
Meier continues, “We recently launched RejuveNAD, a new natural active ingredient which stimulates the endogenous regeneration of NAD+. NAD+ plays a crucial role in various cellular processes and has received significant attention in anti-aging supplements. However, the use of NAD+ in cosmetics failed so far, as the molecule has a very poor stability in formulations and cannot be taken up into skin cells. We have now developed a holistic solution to increase NAD+ levels in the skin through cosmetic applications. Sourced from sustainably cultivated sunflower sprouts through indoor farming, their formula naturally boosts the longevity molecule NAD+ to optimize cellular processes.Clinical studies show that RejuveNAD can counteract at least five hallmarks of aging in the skin simultaneously: Mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, epigenetic alteration and genomic instability making the skin look eight years younger in just 42 days.”
Packaging for Beauty Launches
Skin Care Packaging
Vonda Simon, founder and CEO of Seacliff Beauty, says, “[For Norwex Renewing Eye Cream] this premium package achieves multiple needs when it comes to sustainability. Not only is the package refillable, verses replacing the entire product, but also made with glass (30% PCR and fully recyclable) and #tide Ocean Material (OceanBound Plastic) in both caps, pumps and actuators. Plus, the airless pump technology ensures all the product inside the container gets completely dispensed, eliminating product waste. The collar and cap are made with 100% PP OceanBound Plastic PCR, which is FDA approved and food-grade safe. The component is also refillable and includes a glass bottle, making this a triple treat when it comes to sustainability.”
Simon continues, “[For Matter of Fact Maximalist Age-Defying Moisturizer] this package is an airless container, designed to accommodate a wide range of formulas that are susceptible to oxidation. Additionally, it is a refillable container which features a glass outer jar and a durable pump mechanism intended for consumer reuse. By encouraging repeated usage of the outer glass and pump, it contributes to a reduction in the introduction of plastic into our environment. This pack not only protects and preserves the product, but also promotes/presents the brand. This Matter of Fact package is larger than most airless jars and features metallization which gives this package a luxurious and high-end look and feel.”
Body Care Packaging
Leslie Gurland, vice president of sales and marketing, Premium Label & Packaging Solutions, says, “Golden Isle is an instant dark bronzing body gloss infused with pearlescent peptides, vivid vitamins, and radiant raspberry butters. The dazzling ingredients inside of the bottle mirror the packaging, which is designed to evoke the look of a shimmering crystal agate. Premium Label & Packaging Solutions produced the look by printing the shrink sleeve label with a Pillars of Light holographic foil.”
Brady Bacchus, marketing manager at FusionPKG, says, “FusionPKG partnered with Oui The People to expand their body care assortment with the launch of their All Over Body Renewal travel set featuring the Cheat Sheet Resurfacing Body Serum packed in our North American made 30 ml Hero Airless bottle. Leveraging our local supply chain, Oui The People achieved swift market entry into 266 Sephora locations without compromising aesthetics or performance.”
Hair Care Packaging
Silvia Losacco, events and communication, Lumson, says, “The last six months have seen different brand new products enriching Lumson portfolio. After the new premium airless designs, Excelsa and Sublima that have joined TAG family, Lumson has featured recently three comprehensive lines (Slim, Verona, Round) dedicated to the hair care world. Leveraging its consolidated expertise in skin care and makeup, the hair care collections are perfect to suit different product types present in the market, from serums to masks, and to address the progressive fusion of hair care and skin care. Lumson hair care collections stand out for their designs, sizes and materials to meet every need and type of formula. Comprising nine different bottles ranging from 30 to 400 ml in various materials (glass, PET, PE), SLIM is the ideal solution for those seeking elegance and sophistication coupled with functionality and practicality. Verona is the line with distinctive design, the PETG bottles with sizes ranging from 50 to 200 ml are perfect to be paired with both traditional and precision dispensing systems for targeted applications. Products more closely linked to nature are perfect instead for Round, the collection in glass and PE materials (from 50 to 250 ml) in muted colors and a soft-touch finish for a particularly smooth feel. All the various solutions can be perfectly combined with an ample range of Lumson dispensing systems, accessories and customized through the use of several decoration techniques for a complete turnkey service.”
Sustainable Sourcing of Cosmetic Ingredients: More Than a Trend, A Key Requirement
Robin Cordier, Crodarom
What could be the most significant shift toward sustainable practices witnessed in recent years by the beauty industry? Very certainly the sourcing of ingredients. This transformation can be attributed to the growing awareness and concern about the environmental and social impact of conventional sourcing methods. Consumers today, more than ever, demand transparency, ethical practices, naturality and sustainability in their cosmetic products, prompting manufacturers to prioritize sustainable sourcing.
Crodarom and Alban Muller, the two botanical experts of Croda International Plc., have long made responsible sourcing one of their main trademarks, trusting sustainability was a remarkable lever for long-term success and resilience in a rapidly evolving industry. Applied to a fair share of their portfolio, their sustainable sourcing approaches ensure that many demands from society are met, for the planet and for the people.
One of the key reasons for this commitment is the observation that, when sustainability is not considered, sourcing methods may involve practices leading to deforestation, habitat destruction, and the depletion of natural resources. Recognizing these adverse effects, the two botanical companies actively sought environmentally friendly alternatives. Their responsible sourcing includes practices such as eco-responsible farming and reasoned harvest of wild plants, preserving the balance of the ecosystems that inspire their products. If you're wondering why they were motivated, Crodarom's location in Lozère, an unspoilt natural area in the south of France, and Alban Muller's in the heart of the Beauce region, the bearded barn of France, may be a good place to start.
Implementing sustainable sourcing practices requires collaboration and commitment throughout the supply chain. With a local and transparent sourcing less that 40 km away from Crodarom’s factory, Phytessence French Rose EC showcases a state-of-the-art sustainable supply chain. Crodarom's rose suppliers are a few family companies employing reasoned agricultural practices. Building a close partnership with these unique suppliers enables Crodarom to provide full traceability on the extract, ensuring flowers are grown using virtuous practices that protect biodiversity and support the farm economic development, with fair and transparent prices. This exemplifies the responsible practices expected by the brand, clearly outlined in its challenging Supplier Code of Conduct for Responsible Relationships and Purchasing.
Social responsibility also plays a pivotal role in sustainable sourcing for a part of their catalog. Both companies have long been aware of the need to engage in ethical partnerships with local communities and farmers, promoting fair practices and supporting economic development. Direct contact with suppliers ensures mutual trust and a transparent communication on the continuous improvement of product quality and work conditions. A win-win situation.
The botanical manufacturers also seek to offer sales channel diversifications for producers, alongside the food industry, whether it is in France with Cosme-Phytami Cucumber EC and Crodarom Beech, both recognized as “responsibly sourced” by the UEBT (Union for Ethical Biotrade), or on the other side of the world with Crodarom Banana Flower EC or Crodarom Green Caviar, respectively recognised by the ERI360° gold and silver labels. This commercial opportunity allows producers to look to the future with greater peace of mind, and to embark on projects to optimize their production for ever more quality, safety and naturalness.
Upcycling also provides new opportunities for Alban Muller and Crodarom’s suppliers, who find a new business for their co-products. With Crodarom Amethyst GL, the discarded stone materials that are not suitable for jewelry are transformed into a cosmetic product of great value. As for Cytokalmine EC, the raw material is pomegranate peels from a French fruit juice producer, providing a new revenue stream from what was formerly a waste from their production.
The efforts of the botanical manufacturers for transparency, sustainability and traceability are a powerful marketing tool given to beauty brands to strengthen their brand environmental stewardship and align with the conscientious expectations of customers. Both companies are continually investing in research and development to find innovative solutions for responsible sourcing and throughout the rest of the value chain. Over the last decades, they have developed eco-friendly extraction technologies, aiming at low water and energy consumptions, and low carbon emissions, such as Crodarom’s microwave or ultrasound-assisted technologies, or Alban Muller’s zeodration drying process. Another step for a better future.