11 Microtrends in Beauty: Retinol Bodywash, Facial Tech, Tarte Cosmetics and DEI Controversy, Etc.

This report expands on C&T's "Consumer Pulse" video series on the socials. It highlights emerging trends in consumer searches and hashtags related to cosmetics and skin care. This edition includes: Serena Williams makeup, Painted makeup, JLo Skincare, Dot Cosméticos, Tarte Cosmetics and DEI controversy, saffron supplements, microcurrent facial device and face tech metatrend, turmeric soap, retinol body wash, electric scalp massager, oily scalp treatments and scalp spas. Following are growth statistics on searches, notes on potential drivers, plus a deeper dive into a few topics that caught our interest.

1. Serena Williams makeup +2,100%* - Tennis star Serena Williams launched makeup line WYN Beauty in the spring of 2024. More recently, however (about one week ago), MSN reported Williams' "trick" to camouflaging dark circles: an under-eye color corrector. Her choice? L.A. Girl under-eye concealer, which sells for less than $4. The brand, like many others, is also currently featuring holiday sets.
2. Painted Makeup +300%* - One month ago, social media influencer and makeup artist James Charles (184K followers) traveled to Dublin to celebrate the launch of his Painted makeup brand, per the source Goss. In addition, Painted's product website is currently featuring a bundle of blush products, which Charles lightheartedly demonstrated as "indestructible" by dropping one from the roof of his home; the drop was featured in a TikTok video one day ago. It currently has more than 94K "loves."
3. JLo Skincare +250%* - A few days ago, Billboard announced a 61% off sale of JLo beauty kits to celebrate the "Glowiest Time of the Year." Harper's Bazaar also caught up with the celebrity in a Nov. 11, 2024, report to learn about her self-care routine to keep her skin looking youthful and healthy.
4. Dot Cosméticos +250%* - Brazilian brand Dot Cosméticos is highlighting products for "progressive brushing" to make hair "straight, hydrated and shiny," as part of its Black Friday promotions. (Note for U.S.-based readers: In case you didn't know, Black Friday has become a global phenomenon, per Western Financial group and other sources.)
5. Tarte Cosmetics +200%* - (see below)
6. Saffron Supplements +239% (past 5 yrs, Exploding Topics) - Interest in saffron (Crocus sativus flower) supplements is growing thanks to not only its health-related effects, but also mood-boosting wellness benefits, per Exploding Topics.
7. Microcurrent Facial Device +418% (past 5 yrs, Exploding Topics) - (see below)
8. Turmeric soap +115.4% searches (year over year (YoY), Spate) - Turmeric has headlined some of our previous reports and per Spate, it's still on the upswing. On TikTok, turmeric soap has seen a +299.4% YoY growth in views compared with last year and receives 10.7 million average weekly views. The ingredient is still widely sought for its skin-brightening properties (even though soap is a rinse-off product, Spate notes). The source adds that consumers also want bars that combine turmeric with other ingredients like lemon, honey and kojic acid.
9. Retinol body wash +62% (YoY, Spate) - (see below)
10. Electric scalp massager +447.4% (YoY, Spate) - According to Spate, consumers associate scalp massagers with hair growth, as demonstrated by searches like electric scalp massager for hair growth, and this is a booming market segment. The source adds that the cross-over between beauty and tech is always exciting (as #7 above confirms).
11. Oily scalp treatment +34.6% and scalp spas +64.8% (YoY, Spate) - Also per Spate, interest in scalp treatments continues growing in popularity, bringing in an average of 1.4K monthly searches; e.g., scalp treatment for oily scalp, oily scalp hair loss treatment, treatment for oily scalp and dry ends, and best dandruff treatment for oily scalp. In relation, the source adds that scalp spas are trending, bringing 1.8 M average weekly views on TikTok.

*per Google Trends, past 7 days, trends search performed on "cosmetics" and "skin care"

Tarte Cosmetics, DEI Controversy and How Makeup Reveals Political Views (?)

Tarte Cosmetics continues to drive consumer interest but for "good, bad and ugly" reasons. Searches on the brand rose 200% in the past seven days, per Google Trends, most likely thanks to holiday deals, which Good Morning America highlighted yesterday.

Diversity controversy: However, the company has also been at the center of controversy over Tarte Cosmetics' alleged lack of diversity, equity and inclusion (DEI). In September 2024, AdAge reported on a "gifting debacle" on social media, wherein the brand gave certain beauty influencers expensive Hermès bracelets but not others, as TikTok unboxing videos revealed. This caused a social media uprising.

AdAge's report sought to unravel what brands can learn from this controversy; for example, prioritizing authenticity, recognizing the importance of diversity and understanding that influencers are not the only creators — consumers are, too.

Tarte has been under fire for DEI inequality prior to this social media slip-up. Essence GU (Girls United) reported in October that as far back as 2018, issues were raised with the brand's non-inclusive product shades. In 2023, Tarte Cosmetics' CEO Maureen Kelly posted a TikTok video in which she pledged to make the company's creator program more inclusive, per NBC news. Essence GU posited whether the brand's efforts were enough.

Political insights(?): On a lighter note, two days ago, one week following the U.S. presidential election, the Daily Mail featured the story: "How the beauty brands you use could secretly reveal if you're a Republican or Democrat," which called out Tarte Cosmetics.

The article covered a viral TikTok video by artist Niko Haagenson with nearly 26K "loves" that describes beauty brands he believes give off "major conservative energy." Tarte, Jeffree Star Cosmetics and MAC were named, stirring viewer comments.

The Tarte Shape Tape concealer, for example, has reportedly been popular with celebrities such as Canadian actress Shay Mitchell and American gymnast Shawn Johnson. Per Haagenson, Johnson appeared on the Celebrity Apprentice and follows Ivanka Trump on Instagram (although she also follows Kamala Harris, per the Daily Mail). He also claimed the product is "super dry" a "major red flag," giving wearers a "dried up" and "crusty" look.

Per Haagenson, additional brands with a "conservative vibe" include: Mac lipliner in Whirl, which he describes as the "perfect white girl shade;" Jeffree Star Cosmetics, as the founder is know for his conservative viewpoints; Clinique, with its "medicinal clinical vibe;" Urban Decay's Naked Palette; as well as Merit Beauty products. Per the Daily Mail, Haagenson also clarified the video is only meant to share "vibes" and is not meant as hate to anybody.

C&T realizes these observations are completely absent of any scientific basis. Then again, that's never stopped consumers from jumping to conclusions, has it? Regardless of Haagenson's perspectives, Tarte's Shape concealer incorporates shea butter, to help retain skin's elasticity, and mango butter, to moisturize and condition skin. In addition, licorice root helps to brighten dark spots and under-eye circles. Notably, it is available in 37 shades, ranging from deep Espresso Honey to very fair porcelain beige.

Ingredients: Tarte Shape concealer: Water/Aqua/Eau, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Sodium Chloride, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Triethyl Citrate, Aluminum Hydroxide, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Fragrance/Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Disodium EDTA, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Convallaria Majalis Bulb/Root Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Lilium Candidum Flower Extract, Magnolia Liliflora Flower Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Tocopherol, Amyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Limonene, Linalool, Glycerin, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, TBHQ. May contain (+/-): Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499).

Microcurrent Facial Device, Tech Metatrend

Interest in microcurrent facial devices had grown 418% in the past 5 yrs, Exploding Topics reports. By sending electrical currents to facial muscles and skin cells, these tools aim to tighten skin and smooth lines. This trend has grown in part due to startup Therabody's Theraface Pro device.

Exploding Topics places microcurrent facial devices within the larger Face Care Tech meta trend. Other devices include LED face masks, skin therapy wands and LED lip masks.

Retinol Body Wash

Spate finds that consumers are doubling up on cleansing with added benefits, as seen in the rising interest in retinol body wash. With an average of 880 monthly searches and a +62.0% increase over last year on Google, per the source, most of this attention is focused on Olay’s retinol body wash. Spate points to this as an opportunity for other brands to enter the space, since there are few competing searches.

Notably, the interest in retinol extends to body cream, which is gaining traction on TikTok, with a +76.3% YoY growth and 72.8K average weekly views.

"Essentially, consumers are looking to add retinol to every step of their body care routine, from wash to lotion — whether to address signs of aging or hyperpigmentation, it’s an ingredient they’re fully invested in," the source reports.