The Mr. Timid Blush and Lipstick, presented by Sophim, is designed for multifunctional makeup purposes; i.e., contouring, blush or lipstick. The company's star ingredient, Phytosqualan (10%) offers added benefits (emolliency, moisturizing, TEWL reduction, etc.) to makeup products and is a sensory agent, thanks to its non-greasy touch and ability to facilitate spreading.
Additional ingredients featured include:
- Castor oil to coat pigments and aid in dispersion;
- Jojoba butter, providing a melting feel, heat resistance and less oxidation than other butters;
- Phytowax 18L57 (INCI: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters), balancing emolliency and texture, ideal for a sensory stick;
- Carnauba wax, a complementary texture agent; and
- Plum oil, a delicate gourmet oil to provide more sensorial benefits and a subtle fragrance.
See the complementary Mrs. Kiss tinted lip oil formula.
Procedure: Weigh all the solid, pasty and liquid fats in A in a suitable beaker. Heat beaker in water bath at 90°C (80-85°C in beaker). Once entire phase is liquid, start stirring at suitable speed to avoid incorporation of air into medium. Ensure all fats are liquid and well-dispersed. Add two pigment dispersions from B under stirring at 80°C, taking care not to aerate the bulk. Check under microscope that pigments are well-dispersed. Remove from water bath. Add fragrance around 70°C. Homogenize bulk well before stopping stirring. Allow bulk to cool to the core of the beaker to obtain homogenous crystal lattice. Depending on quantity, cooling may take up to 24 hr. The bulk may be placed at cold storage at 10°C for one week before casting the sticks. Reheat just enough to 80°C to pour into sticks. Do not "overheat" bulk (temperature and duration) to avoid damaging the fragrance concentrate and oxidizing the bulk.
Editor's note: The products highlighted in our Formula Focus series are chosen at the editor's discretion and demonstrate key ingredients used by the given supplier to create it.
