Prestige hair care sales were up 8% for the first nine months of 2024, per Circana, with units also climbing. Top growth sectors outpacing the market include heat protectants and scalp care, which are both part of the broader hair wellness and skinification trends. Recent ingredient launches support these trends, delivering everything from clean ingredient swaps to scalp therapy to enhanched strength and beyond. Here are just a few recent highlights.
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Prestige hair care sales were up 8% for the first nine months of 2024, per Circana, with units also climbing. Top growth sectors outpacing the market include heat protectants and scalp care, which are both part of the broader hair wellness and skinification trends. Recent ingredient launches support these trends, delivering everything from clean ingredient swaps to scalp therapy to enhanched strength and beyond. Here are just a few recent highlights.
Hair Health from Within
Provital’s Keradeep ingredient is designed to protect damaged hair by preventing the oxidation and carbonylation of hair proteins in both cuticle and cortex.
"Oxidative stress weakens hair structure, breaking bonds like disulfide bridges in the cortex and damaging the protective cuticle layer," says Silvia Benito, science communication manager, Provital S.A. "This makes hair porous, prone to breakage and frizzy in humidity. To counteract this, our new ingredient utilizes pine bark extract from Pinus pinaster, which contains powerful antioxidants, including catechins, taxifolins and procyanidins. These compounds neutralize free radicals, offering broad protection against oxidative damage."
Benito adds, "Keradeep incorporates Pinus pinaster extract to shield hair during peroxide bleaching and heat-styling processes. Through a refined extraction method, we obtain a polyphenol-rich solution that protects hair fibers, preserving the structural integrity of keratin. Keradeep's antioxidants prevent protein carbonylation and bond oxidation, maintaining hair strength, flexibility, and shine. Our findings highlight Keradeep as a promising ingredient for protecting hair against the damaging effects of oxidative stress from common styling practices."
The technology has a range of applications in hair care.
"Keradeep is a versatile ingredient compatible with a wide range of hair care formulations, including hydrophilic, hydrophobic and emulsion-based products," says Benito. "It suits various hair and scalp applications such as shampoos, conditioners, pre-shampoos, serums, anti-frizz products, detanglers, masks, dyes, styling foams, sprays, gels and more. Keradeep should definitely be formulated into specialized treatments, such as hair restructuring, coloring, straightening and curling products due to its protective activity. Additionally, it works well with heat or infrared tools like hair irons and dryers."
Nina Esposito, marketing director, Provital USA, explains the importance of preventative care: "Every strand of hair owes its strength, resilience, and shine to millions of disulfide bonds. When these bonds stay intact, hair is gorgeous, healthy and touchably soft. But when disulfide bonds break, hair becomes brittle, frizzy and vulnerable to damage. That’s where Keradeep steps in."
Esposito concludes, "Keradeep is not just a treatment; it’s a proactive solution that fortifies hair from within. It targets the core issues that weaken hair during intense processes like bleaching and heat styling—oxidative damage to proteins and disulfide bonds. By blocking these processes, Keradeep preserves hair’s internal structure, helping it stay strong, smooth, and full of life."
Scalp Therapy
SCH’s ShellCare Scalp ingredient (INCI: water (aqua) (and) polycaprolactone (and) polyvinyl alcohol (and) Cucurbita pepo seed extract (and) ellagic acid (and) tetrahydrocurcumin (and) copper tripeptide-1 (and) tripeptide-10 citrulline (and) sodium hyaluronate (and) xanthan gum (and) 1,2- hexanediol (and) caprylyl glycol) is an encapsulated cosmetic active that provides complete scalp care therapy, per the company.
With turmeric, pomegranate and pumpkin seed extracts, very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, and carefully selected peptides, SCH ShellCare Scalp is said to offer hydration, reduce hair loss, improve elasticity and effectively control scalp sebum.
Cutting Down on Hair Loss
Actichem, a French producer of natural active ingredients from upcycled vine shoots and vine roots, now offers the COSMOS-approved hair care ingredient, Natural Resvinia 2% Sol. (INCI: Vitis vinifera (grape) vine extract.)
The ingredient is reported to significantly reduce hair loss, stimulate hair growth, and impart anti-pollution and protective effects against oxidative damage. Per the company, the ingredient is made of natural resveratrol and epsilon-viniferin and extracted solely from upcycled French vine shoots.
A Clean, Vegan Alternative for Boosting Gloss & Texture
Seiwa Kasei's Vistanol GDHR-Pure (INCI: glyceryl diisostearate/hydrogenated rosinate) is a 100% plant-derived alternative to several conventional materials. Per the company, it has a texture and properties similar to lanolin (derived from sheep wool), providing excellent gloss and emollient characteristics.
New data also reportedly indicates that Vistanol GDHR-Pure delivers a dimethicone-like texture at lower dosages in hair care applications. Additionally, it features favorable handling properties, including reduced odor, minimal color and no solidification.
