Social Media, New Research, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late January 2013

Schülke launched its official international YouTube channel, featuring all-new content from the company’s offices worldwide. Visit to view a brief history of the company that invented Lysol, as well as many other unique preservative and hygiene products. And new videos will be added throughout the year to tell the next chapters in Schülke’s ongoing story.

Evolva entered into a collaboration agreement with Ajinomoto Co. Inc., Japan, for the joint development of novel fermentation production routes for a natural functional ingredient for application in beauty and personal care.

Natural Plant Products (NPP) revealed findings from two independent hair shine studies that compared its natural oil product Daikon Radish Oil to other natural emollients as well as silicones. The tests rendered results with Daikon Radish Oil testing on top in both dry combing and repeating grooming tests, outperforming phenyl trimethicone with regards to shine and comparable or superior results to many of the silicones tested. NPP contracted an independent hair testing firm to evaluate Daikon Radish Oil’s dry combing, repeated grooming (strengthening), and technical shine properties relative to other emollients.

In December 2012, Ashland Specialty Ingredients hosted an Avant Institute symposium called “The Visual Skin, Biology and Beyond,” at the Liberty Science Center in Jersey City, New Jersey. Beauty industry professionals from around the world participated in discussions with leading research professionals and academics focused on advances in skin aging, epithelial biology, skin imaging and polymers in formulation. Dr. Leslie Baumann provided insights into the seven primary causes of aging and their impact on skin appearance, while Dr. Peter Marinkovich addressed the role of the epidermal junction in skin physiology. Dr. Nik Kollias discussed noninvasive assessment of skin function with optical tools, and Dr. Raymond Boissy and Dr. Robert Lavker presented insights about skin pigmentation and epithelial homeostasis.

Brookfield added an expiration date to its silicone viscosity standards used to perform calibration checks on viscometers and rheometers. This new information appears on the jar label as well as on the certificate of calibration that comes with the fluid.

Oat Cosmetics rebranded its range of oat-based cosmetic ingredients. This news follows the launch of the company's organic colloidal oatmeal and superfine oat flour. The expansion of the product range necessitated a simplified naming system, which allows customers to clearly identify the various grades in each ingredient group. In addition, the new names incorporate Oat Cosmetics trademark word "Oat." For example, the original colloidal oatmeal is now referred to as Oat COM USP, whereas the newly launched organic version is Oat COM ORG. The company maintains that there is no change in the quality of their ingredients, and the ingredient rebrand will help to facilitate the continuity with future product expansion.

New Launches

Chemsil combined a cationic hindered amino silicone polymer with an organic quaternium salt to create a microemulsion that increases hair volume while conditioning for its Microsil Volume ingredient. While developed to condition and increase volume in hair conditioners and conditioning hair treatments, it also can be used to create clear hair care products and provides anti-static control, softness and shine to hair.

Shiseido discovered Zizyphus jujuba fruit extract promotes the growth rate of eyelashes. This research follows previous findings by the company that eyelashes grow differently than scalp hair. On this basis, Shiseido focused on the relationship between the growth rate and length of eyelashes. As a result of examining more than 200 kinds of plant extracts to stimulate the proliferation of hair follicle cells, Zizyphus jujuba fruit extract was found to be highly effective. The fruits of Zizyphus jujuba are used in Traditional Chinese Medicine for their sedative, anti-allergy and anti-stress effects. A laboratory test designed on the continuous use of trial products over a four-month period demonstrated that Zizyphus jujuba fruit extract increases the growth rate of eyelashes. These research results will be reported at the 13th Annual Meeting of the Japanese Society of Anti-Aging Medicine in Yokohama, Japan.

To help offer a more environmentally friendly option for products such as facial scrubs and body washes, Impact Colors offers two natural microbead solutions featuring the active ingredients of rice and bamboo. Rice Exfoliator Vision Beads and Bamboo Exfoliator Vision Beads, which are entirely natural and biodegradable, work at the cellular level to naturally restore skin’s beauty through gently sloughing off skin’s surface cells. These exfoliation spheres gently exfoliate and deeply clean the skin while protecting and moisturizing, and Vision Beads are available in a range of colors—from red, yellow, green, and blue, to black, white, and silver tones. They are easily formulated into creams, lotions, gels, and hair products—where ever a distinctive visual effect is desired.

Alban Muller International released Amiderm ER, a plant-based ingredient developed to preserve the pH balance of the skin. Based on the specificity of a witch hazel tannin, Amiderm ER offers an anti-urease activity that prevents the degradation of urea in ammonia in the case of perspiration. Amiderm ER thus enables stabilizing skin pH and maintains its natural protection, avoiding irritation and unpleasant smell production. The ingredient’s mode of action makes it useful in all situations when skin is stressed by an increase in pH: particularly sensitive and wet areas of the body, babies’ bottoms, normal and excessive perspiration, and so on, so for products such as  deodorants, baby products, intimate hygiene, comfort products and more.

Tagra Biotechnologies launched a non-nano encapsulated carbon black for color cosmetic applications. CarbonCap are carbon black microcapsules that have been coated with transparent polymer. The microcapsule is highly loaded with the pigment (50%), which allows for color saturation in the finished product. The micron size ensures color uniformity and stability, and it is available in either powder or slurry/paste form. The product is suitable for liquid- or powder-based color formulations such as eyeliners, mascaras, eye shadows, lipsticks, blushes, face powders and foundations. In addition, it can be formulated in water-based products and waterproof mascaras.

Laboratoires Expanscience debuted Sweetone, which uses processed schizandra berries to create an active that soothes redness and irritation while decreasing melanin synthesis for a more even complexion. The ingredient is a result of the enzymatic hydrolysis of dried and defatted schizandra berries, and the natural extract soothes skin by modulating inflammation.

Ajinomoto released a mild foaming surfactant that is suitable for skin and hair cleansing products called Amilite ET-CS-12. It is derived from amino acid L-threonin, and it produces a rich foam in weakly acidic conditions and leaves a moist and smooth feeling on the skin without causing a taut feeling. It also improves the foam volume and foam quality of sulfate-free cleansing products in addition to improving rinsability and dry skin feel.

Koster Keunen designed an emulsifier for luxurious skin and hair care formulations. Siliconyl IBT products a whiter emulsion with a thick texture, easy spreading and thin film forming. Therefore, the emulsifier creates a luxurious emulsion that moisturizes skin or hair yet imparts no after feel. The emulsifier also adds a brighter sheen to formulations.

Natural Sourcing announced Professional Strength Grapefruit Seed Extract (60%), a powerful broad spectrum citrus based antimicrobial that can be used to extend product shelf life and protect skin care formulations against bacteria and fungus. It possesses strong antiseptic, germicidal, antibacterial, fungicidal and anti-viral properties and also acts as an antioxidant, and can be used in moisturizers, serums, balms, facial toners, mud packs, exfoliants, fragrance products, liquid soap, hair care products and more.

People News

Jacklin Vetkoetter Hoffelt has joined Coast Southwest as a senior marketing specialist, personal care.

Cosmetic Essence (CEI) promoted Matthew Heuer to senior vice president of global sales and marketing. Formerly senior vice president of business development, Heuer brings more than 20 years of industry experience to the position. His demonstrated knowledge and sales performance will be integral to leading sales efforts globally, accelerating revenue growth and expanding market share in all segments of CEI’s business. Heuer will manage the company’s sales force and marketing organization at its headquarters in Holmdel, New Jersey.

Calumet Penreco LLC added Robert Lundgren to its team. Lundgren joins Calumet Penreco as its sales director for white oils, petrolatums and waxes. He has more than 25 years of experience in the chemical industry with Univar USA.

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