Research Options, Digital Solutions, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late November 2013

Seatons launched a new guide to natural oils for hair care, as well as a natural oils sensory selection guide.

Sederma unveiled a new website experience in simplified Chinese language.

Symrise continued its robust growth in the third quarter of 2013 with strong momentum. The company increased sales to €1.401 billion in the first nine months of 2013; at local currency, this translates into an increase of 10%. EBITDA grew by 12% at local currency to €290.2 million, and with an EBITDA margin of 20.7 %, Symrise remains one of the most profitable companies in the industry. Both divisions and every region contributed to this positive performance. In the emerging markets, Symrise was able to increase sales by 11% at local currency, thereby exceeding the company’s overall growth rate.

Lonza now offers its XS Microbial Expression Technologies to customers under a Research Evaluation Agreement. The new XS research license allows customers to use Lonza’s microbial expression hosts and vectors in their own development laboratories.

Natural Sourcing announced its enrollment in the California Certified Organic Farmers’Global Market Access program. Joining the program reinforces the company’s commitment to providing superior quality raw organic ingredients to customers both domestically and in the European Union.

Metics is a new modern software solution for cosmetics and beauty development and regulatory affairs. Metics is designed to help the beauty industry develop and verify faster, more cost effectively and with higher quality. From handling formulation development with cost optimization and instant verification of INCI and regulations, supporting safety assessments, to building up the complete product and exporting it. Metics integrates with the European Commission database, and the system is designed to fully track all user data so every change can be traced back.

Solvay presented at the SCS Formulate in Coventry, U.K. Showcased ingredients included: hair care—Jaguar, Jaguar LS, Mirapol 55OPF, Mirapol 550 SBF, Miranol, Miracare SLB, Fentacare, Mackine 301U and Mirasheen Star; and skin care—Mackam 50ULB, Mackam 40K, Mackadet EQ 112K, Miracare SLB, Mackpearl, Rheomer 33and Jaguar C16. Additionally, Solvay announced it will build and operate a large-scale alkoxylation unit in Pasadena, Texas, at an integrated industrial facility of LyondellBasell's Equistar Chemicals affiliate, in order to serve a growing North American market.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics debuted new hair therapy formulas that aim to heighten the sensory experience. To gently clean and recover the natural beauty of hair, Heliogel can be used to offer a soft, melting shampoo, while Amisol Trio offers protective action. Heliogel and Ecogel combine for a cream that leaves a silicone-like feel on hair, Amisol Trio offers conditioning properties after rinsing, and Suprem WP Argan offers shine. For curl control, Lecigel can be used in leave-on gel creams, Phytenso strengthens naturally and controls frizzy hair, and Suprem WP Sweet Almond works to prevent dryness while adding luster. And using Melitane in hair products can reverse the gray hair process, while Capixyl helps prevent hair loss.

User-friendly and modern design are the key to the to navigate the new Coptis website. Improvements to the site include a new search box, and structured content of solutions combined with a straightforward and intuitive navigation throughout the site. The site also features new product launches and innovations, as well as news from the company.

New Launches

At in-cosmetics Asia, Induchem presented its collaboration with Biomod on whitening and advanced rejuvenation skin care gloves. Dgloves, with D standing for diamond, were developed based on the growing trend of skin whitening in Asia. These gloves combine three technologies to produce "diamond white and luminous hands:" Biomod's Dermotex, an exclusive vectorization and controlled release technology to favor the skin penetration of active ingredients; Biomod's On2, a printing process for soft materials that allows for the printing of skin care formulas on fabrics; and an exclusive combination of actives from Induchem to remove age spots, protect skin from UVA and UVB rays, and relaunch the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin of the hands.

Innospec introduced two new variants of its flagship ester, Finsolv TN. The new Finsolv TN-G is focused on sustainability. While the original Finsolv TN is based on synthetic raw materials, our laboratory was able to recreate the ester with raw materials approaching 50% natural. And Finsolv TN-LB has the same as the origin in all aspects with a more rigorous specification for benzyl benzoate.

Seppic launched FluidiPure 8G, a new biomimetic purifying active agent that offers complete protection for the cutaneous cocoon. This new ingredient, which is a glycine and sugar biovector, aids in limiting the proliferation of microorganisms on the skin and in product formulations, as well as restores the cutaneous ecosystem while preserving the integrity of skin. When used in hair care, it reduces dandruff, calms scalp irritation and decreases the production of sebum, and it also participates in reducing hair and body odor. As a biomimetic acidifying agent, it helps attacked skin to regain its physiological pH as well. The active agent, presented in liquid and transparent form, can be readily incorporated into any type of cosmetic care or hygiene product, including processes performed without heating.

At in-cosmetics Asia, Naturex launched a line of 13 botanical oils that match sensorial and efficacy properties with social and environmental responsibility. NAT oleis is protected from oxidation with the company's OleiProtect, which aims to preserve the properties of the oils and improve shelf-life.The oils have been selected for their sensorial profile and their composition in actives. They include: apricot, argan, baobab, buriti, camelina, camellia, chia, cranberry, marula, moringa, sacha inchi, tsubaki and ungurahui oils. The oils are available in several grades to comply with all formulation needs, match specifications and offer greater convenience and ease of use for R&D teams. To create the line, the company's agronomic experts work closely with local growers, implementing strict control processes and careful documentation to ensure high traceability of crops. To formalize its commitment, the company will be donating 1% of the sales generated by its NAT oleis range back to the planet and communities where the botanical oils are sourced.

Topical salicylic acid is available in several strengths, in both OTC and prescription-grade products. However, a major hurdle for developers of these products is solubilizing the salicylic acid in the formulation. Essential Ingredients developed a new product that helps prevent crystallization and improves the ease of use and efficiency of delivering salicylic acid. Curcylic 40, a 40% salicylic acid gel that meets the USP salicylic acid gel monograph, is a new patented form of salicylic acid that is safe, stable and effective. It is 40% complexed salicylic acid that is alcohol free and dilutes clear in water. When diluted down to active levels in water or ethanol, the salicylic acid stays in the solution & the pH of the solution is approximately 3. Curcylic 40 also has shown to be both a non-primary irritant and a non-primary sensitizer to human skin when used at a 3% salicylic acid level. It can be used globally in acne, anti-dandruff, wart removal, corn and callus removers and cosmetic applications.

Elevance Renewable Sciences entered personal care with Elevance Smooth, a line of plant-based multifunctional polymers, and Elevance Soft, a line of plant-based emollients. Both lines can be used in a wide range of personal care applications, including skin, hair and cosmetic products. The company plans to soon add to the Smooth and Soft product lines as well as introduce new lines for personal care. Additional products in the Elevance Soft line will be introduced with sample quantities available in late 2013, and commercial quantities available in 2014.

People News

David Smith was named the executive director of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SCC). His new position officially began on Nov. 4, 2013. Smith will help move the SCC move forward with new ideas about long-term planning and will immediately get involved with website redesign and planning for the IFSCC Congress in 2016.

Marc Morisset joined Alban Muller International USA (A.M.I. USA) as its new business development manager for the U.S. and Canada. Morisset will be responsible for defining and implementing A.M.I. USA’s sales and marketing strategies to drive results and profit, as well as exploring new business opportunities for A.M.I. products and services.

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