Halal Options, Palm Oil Ingredients, in-cosmetics Previews, and More Beauty Ingredient News and Launches for Late February 2014

Croda announced its Rawcliffe Bridge manufacturing site in the U.K. can now offer a variety of cosmetic ingredients, including rheology modifiers, emulsifying waxes and lanolin derivatives, that are approved as Halal and permissible by Islamic law.

BASF introduced a range of ingredients for home and personal care based on certified sustainable palm (kernel) oil, in accordance with the principles and criteria of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). With the launch of these ingredients, BASF is moving toward achieving its goal of purchasing all palm and palm kernel oil from certified sustainable sources by 2015.

Evonik's consumer specialties business unit debuted CareTain, a communication platform it developed for more sustainable innovation. It allows beauty and cosmetic brand and manufacturers to choose and combine ingredients for the product formulations they envision. CareTain consists of three modules: Toolbox, Future Profiling and Evolution. Toolbox contains a comprehensive set of raw material information for interactive exchange; Future Profiling helps design a detailed profile of raw materials for the future; and Evolution is a quantification of all profiling parameters result in key performance indicators, which describe the overall sustainability rating of a cosmetic ingredient.

Clariant announced its 2013 full-year sales from continuing operations, recording CHF6.076 billion compared to CHF 6.038 billion in full-year 2012, an increase of 4% in local currencies and 1% in Swiss francs. The 4% organic sales growth was almost entirely driven by higher volumes, according to the company.

Vivimed Labs USA Inc. announced Coast Southwest Inc. agreed to represent Vivimed Labs’ products for sales and distribution in the U.S. Southwest and West Coast regions.

Impact Colors made strategic distribution agreements with Univar in Germany, Benelux, Austria, Ireland, and the U.K.; Chemco Trade in Romania; and Millchem in South Africa.

Fitz Chem Care Chemicals was appointed the exclusive distributor for BASF Beauty Creations in the Midwestern U.S.

Koda Distribution Group (KDG) acquired The DeWolf Companies (DeWolf Chemical Inc., Glenn Corp., Tempo Canada ULC) and formed the Koda Care business unit.

Solvay opened a new research and innovation center in Singapore, which act as the group’s core innovation ground for its consumer chemicals growth engine in the Asia-Pacific region.

Results of tests conducted at AMA Laboratories confirms Mantrose-Haeuser’s new bio-polymer film former, Poly-Soleil, passes the FDA 80-minute water-resistance test in an SPF 50 sunscreen spray formula at concentration levels as low as 0.5%. Additional tests for extended four-hour water resistance and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) with rub off were also successful.

Ashland presented new data at PCHi in Shanghai that demonstrates how plankton extract rich in GP4G nucleotides limits the appearance of skin damage ex vivo following exposure to environmental shocks, such as infrared radiation, ultraviolet radiation, heat and cold. Research conducted at the Vincience Global Skin Research Laboratory centered on strategies to defend human skin with a topical application of guanine rich nucleotides extracted from Artemia salina, a type of plankton proven to withstand extreme environmental conditions over millions of years. Clinical results show GP4G SP biofunctional, the same basic compound protecting Artemia salina plankton from extinction during severe environmental conditions, may be used in formulations to better manage the appearance of skin following exposure to solar and thermal shocks.

The Beluran Smallholder Palm Oil Cluster (SPOC) was the first independent group of farmers to become certified by the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO) in Malaysia.

Looking to in-cosmetics 2014 and New Launches

At this year’s in-cosmetics show, BASF’s Personal Care business will showcase its product portfolio, including new ingredients and concepts. Included in this will be its next generation of styling polymers, which are ideal for use in different kinds of styling applications and offer superior performance compared to benchmark products. Another ingredient on display will be a thickener without preservatives that boosts the styling power of formulations. BASF also will showcase concepts that focus on creating innovative textures in hair styling products, such as matte wax and salt spray, and a new blue hair dye that enables vibrant colors. It offers high tinctorial strength at low dosages, and good color fastness when washed. Additionally, BASF will present a plant root extract for the cosmetic active ingredient segment that is able to stimulate the synthesis of two structural compounds that are key to the integrity and homeostasis of the skin. It supports the skin’s cohesion and structure, and helps strengthen its vascularization system. This means the skin surface is refined, smooth and optimally reflects light, making it appear more youthful and luminous.

Evonik’s Personal Care business line is using in-cosmetics 2014 to highlight several innovations, including its Men’s Care market concept; scientific studies; Tego Care PBS 6, a PEG-free O/W emulsifier for challenging fluid emulsions; Sphingony, an active ingredient that addresses hair loss; Tego Solve 61, a naturally derived solubilizer for lipophilic and natural oils; and more. Also, Evonik’s Silica business line will display the benefits of its latest developments in the area of eco-friendly cosmetic formulations such as its hydrated silica products, and it will highlight the benefits of Dynasylan as a high-performance additive in cosmetic formulations.

Induchem debuted Redensyl, its newest breakthrough against hair loss and an alternative to hair transplantation. It is a hair care cosmetic active ingredient based on regenerative medicine research. In its development, Induchem’s biotechnology center analyzed the role of the bulge stem cells (ORSc) in the hair growth cycle and learned ORSc have a crucial function in the initiation of the anagen phase, which is the growth phase of the hair. They discovered a new molecule, dihydroquercetin-glucoside (DHQG), a modified polyphenol from larch trees, is able to activate the division of ORSc while maintaining their differentiation properties. This action is reinforced by the presence of EGCG-glucoside (a biotech derivative of the green tea EGCG) to reduce the typical inflammation of alopecic scalp. These biological activators (DHQG and EGCG2) have been combined with glycine, a key amino acid of hair, and zinc, an activator of cystin incorporation in keratin, to favor the hair growth metabolism. Redensyl helps enable the creation of a new generation of anti-aging hair care products, as well as eyelash growth-boosting formulas and eyebrow-restoration products. This ingredient is water-soluble, easy to formulate in any typical hair care formula, and can even be used in hairsprays.

For its showing at the 2014 in-cosmetics, Berg + Schmidt will present its portfolio of cosmetics raw materials, including high-quality lecithin fractions, which have been added to the company’s BergaMuls product line. The hydrolyzed lyso-lecithin and hydrated lecithin give customers a selection of natural emulsifiers for many applications. The company also extended its shea butter range with BergaCare SB Organic. In cooperation with its sister company Sternchemie, this shea butter has been certified by the respected certification organization Ecocert Deutschland GmbH as “bio/organic, and also the eco-friendly new BergaScrub product range allows product developers to formulate without synthetic polyethylene beads as scrub particles.

Earthoil will present a range of ethically sourced ingredients at in-cosmetics 2014, and under the spotlight at this year’s show will be the company’s organic fair trade argan seed oil, from the Souss Valley area of Morocco, and its avocado oil, produced via a fair trade certified project in Kenya. Each is recognized for their unique cosmetic properties, and their organic and fair trade status also responds to increased demand for traceable raw materials that enable the creation of credible, ethical personal care products.

Kahlwax bridged the gap between hard waxes and liquid emollients with its new launch, Kahlwax 6237. This rapeseed wax has a buttery consistency, makes the skin feel soft, protects against dehydration and boosts the skin’s elasticity. It also helps to diminish the appearance of skin discoloration and scars. It adds shine to the hair and conditions the scalp as well, and Kahlwax 6237 is ideal for massage candles.

Troy Corp. presented its TroyCare preservatives for personal care and cosmetic applications, which offer performance at low use levels, cost efficiency and environmental responsibility. The preservatives are designed for a wide range of personal care and beauty products, including soaps, lotions, body washes, gels, shampoo, mascara, eyeliner and more. Additionally, for the preservation of wet wipes against bacteria, fungi and yeast, the company offers a broad range of solutions.

Solabia addressed acneic skin with a new active designed to clarify, cleanse and fight imperfections by reducing the hyperseborrhea, inflammation, oxidation and bacterial proliferation characteristic of problem skin. Saniskin is a combination of myristyl PCA, used to regulate the bacterial flora that cause acne and encourage damaged areas to regenerate, and an extract of Japanese knotweed (Polygonum cuspidatum), enriched with specific polyphenols (δ-viniferin) through biotechnological processes to modulate the activity of the sebaceous gland, as well as the inflammatory and oxidation reactions that cause imperfections to appear and persist. By regulating the invisible, functional signs of acne-prone skin, the product substantially improves the visible, physical marks on skin, including reducing the number of inflamed blemishes and the number of dilated pores.

Cosphatec expanded its range of natural preservatives with a natural fluid emollient and humectant having broadband antimicrobial activity. Cosphaderm TOM is suitable for a range of formulations including baby and oral care products. The product is an easy to apply, colorless and nearly odorless efficient alternative preservative. The synergetic effect of the components improves preservation, compared with single ingredients, especially in fungicidal application areas. At the same time, the destabilizing effect known from glyceryl caprylate can be reduced. At 1.0–2.5%, the ingredient is not only a replacement for preservative boosters, but also for listed preservatives. Due to its temperature and pH-independence, the emollient/preservative has additional advantages compared with many already-listed preservatives. Also, this multifunctional raw material meets the requirements of most natural cosmetic organizations, including Ecocert, Cosmos and NaTrue.

Indena launched a hair-stengthening active derived from Centella asiatica (L.). Centerox was designed for products that improve hair follicle resistance and reduce hair loss due to frequent washing. The active also was reported to have an invigorating effect on the hair follicle.

Contipro is launching a new peptide based on recent findings on the function of microfibrillar-associated protein (MFAP)-4. Elastage stimulates the production of MFAP-4, which plays a key role in the proper alignment of the microfibrils that form the basic building blocks of elastic fiber. Production of this protein diminishes with age and as a result of the effects of UV radiation. The protein not only improves elasticity, but also increases the concentration of collagen I and helps to protect the skin from UVB radiation.

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