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Holistic Beauty: Clean Solutions for Healthy-looking Skin

As we get older, two essential proteins in our skin, collagen and elastin, begin to lose their native structure and break down.
As we get older, two essential proteins in our skin, collagen and elastin, begin to lose their native structure and break down.
gzorgz at Adobe Stock

The pursuit of wellness in all aspects of life has become a defining trend of this decade. As modern lifestyles and global events increase stress, people are focusing more on what they can control, nurturing their personal wellbeing, and supporting the planet. This shift has fueled interest in holistic beauty, where skincare and self-care are intertwined. Consumers seek to enhance their natural beauty and inner radiance rather than just covering up imperfections. Holistic beauty emphasizes skin health, combining nutrition, lifestyle, and routines that promote positivity and mental wellness, with products that maintain and protect the skin.

Holistic beauty also feeds into the trend for natural, cleaner and more sustainable beauty ingredients and solutions. For conscious consumers, individual wellbeing goes hand in hand with our planet’s wellbeing. So when choosing skin care, they want products with fewer, but higher quality and more versatile ingredients that can perform more than one function and are sustainably sourced and produced. The goal is to keep skin looking and feeling as healthy as possible while having as minimal an impact on the environment and societies as possible.

The multiple needs of maturing skin

Dominik Imfeld, Ph.D., Global Senior Lead Scientist Skin Care, dsm-firmenichDominik Imfeld, Ph.D., Global Senior Lead Scientist Skin Care, dsm-firmenichdsm-FirmenichWith more consumers making the link between skin health and skin appearance, and taking a more holistic view of beauty, perceptions of caring for skin as we mature are changing too. The idea of “anti-aging” is being replaced by the attitude of aging well, by maximizing skin’s health so that it looks its best at every stage in life.

As we get older, two essential proteins in our skin, collagen and elastin, begin to lose their native structure and break down. This natural decline is due to an increased release of collagenases and elastases with inflammatory cascades and is further exacerbated by external aggressors and oxidative stress. The visible effects of these processes are well known–from fine lines and wrinkles on the forehead and crow’s feet, to thinning, less elastic skin, resulting in neck lines and sagging in the cheek area. The skin’s ability to retain moisture is also impacted, which can cause rough, dry patches to develop and leave the complexion looking unhealthy.

Volker Rosenberger, Ph.D., Global Marketing Manager Skin Care, dsm-firmenich.Volker Rosenberger, Ph.D., Global Marketing Manager Skin Care, dsm-firmenich.dsm-FirmenichThe already weakened connective tissue in facial skin around the eye area can suffer further damage if the microcirculation here becomes sluggish. If this happens, blood circulation in the small capillaries becomes poor, causing pressure to build up. Fluid then accumulates and can lead to visible dark circles and puffiness under the eyes.

For maturing skin to look its best, skin care solutions therefore need to provide an antioxidant effect, boost collagen, regulate collagenase and elastase, stimulate the microcirculation and improve skin hydration.

Natural peptides for holistic beauty

To maximize healthy-looking skin benefits in a holistic way, dsm-firmenich developed a clean and potent multi-peptide beauty complex that can address multiple skin needs.

The concept of incorporating “Superfood” ingredients into holistic beauty products has gained popularity in recent years. This new beauty complex [REGU®-AGE CB] taps into the potential in natural peptides derived from two superfoods that provide a superior source of health-giving nutrients and proteins beneficial to the skin – soybean and rice.

This unique active complex comprises two key components. The first is a mixture of carefully purified rice and soybean peptides. The second is a biotechnologically produced, skin-identical superoxide dismutase–a potent and crucial antioxidant enzyme which helps to protect cells from oxidative damage. All the peptides in this complex are manufactured using a targeted protein hydrolysis process and the skin-identical superoxide dismutase is obtained by aerobic fermentation isolated from a natural yeast strain of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. By using these production techniques, it is possible to create a very clean and powerful active ingredient.

Targeting multiple skin processes for multiple skin benefits

In vitro tests show that this beauty complex works on multiple skin processes that influence skin appearance:

  • By inhibiting reactive oxygen radicals, it can protect skin against oxidative stress.
  • By improving microcirculation, it can improve the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eye.
  • By inhibiting inflammatory elastases and collagenases, it can protect the collagen and elastin matrix, helping the skin to retain elasticity, firmness and moisture.
  • By stimulating fibroblast proliferation, it can minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Human studies involving Caucasian and Chinese subjects also demonstrate how this ingredient’s in vitro potential translates to visible skin benefits in vivo.

Proven in vivo benefits for Caucasian skin

To investigate REGU®-AGE CB’s effect on skin texture and moisturization, and on under-eye puffiness and dark circles, 20 Caucasian females, age 30+, took part in a double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study. Volunteers applied either an active formulation with 5% of the beauty complex or a placebo formulation to the whole face twice daily for 56 days.

A range of measurements were taken from all volunteers the day before they applied the test formulations (day 0) and then on days 28 and 56 of application. The following parameters were assessed: skin texture in the canthus area, skin moisturization on the cheek, and puffiness and dark circles under the eye.

Skin texture and moisturization improve significantly

Changes in skin texture compared to day 0 were quantified by taking replicas around the canthus area. These replicas were then analyzed using a computer image analysis system. The results were significant compared to the placebo, with a 32% improvement in skin texture recorded at four weeks (day 28). This improvement increased further, to 42%, after eight weeks (day 56).

Changes in skin moisture compared to day 0 were assessed at defined sites around the cheek area using a Nova Impedance Meter. These measurements revealed a 19% increase in skin moisturization in four weeks, rising to 28% in eight weeks – a significant result compared to the placebo.

A noticeable improvement in dark circles and puffiness under the eyes in four weeks

By improving microcirculation, this ingredient technology can improve the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eye. Pictured are digital camera images for a selected subject; from left: untreated (day 0) and 5% active formulation (week 8).By improving microcirculation, this ingredient technology can improve the appearance of dark circles and puffiness under the eye. Pictured are digital camera images for a selected subject; from left: untreated (day 0) and 5% active formulation (week 8).dsm-FirmenichTrained technicians assessed changes in under-eye puffiness and dark circles versus day 0 using a scoring scale of zero to three. Compared to the placebo, significant improvements were noted. Puffiness under the eye improved 25% in four weeks and 31% in eight weeks. For dark circles under the eye, a 32% improvement was observed at four weeks, increasing to 35% at eight weeks.

These noticeable changes were also visible in photos taken with a digital camera, as the example above shows.

Multiple benefits proven in vivo for Chinese skin

To investigate REGU®-AGE CB’s potential to deliver a further range of skin care benefits, 66 Chinese females, age 35 and 60, took part in a single-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study. Volunteers applied either an active formulation with 3% of the beauty complex or a placebo formulation to the whole face and neck area twice daily for 28 days.

A range of measurements were taken from all volunteers the day before they applied the test formulations (day 0) and then on days one, 14 and 28 after application. Various parameters were assessed including skin texture and smoothness, lines on the forehead, crow’s feet and underneath the eyes, and skin elasticity, firmness and lines on the neck.

Participants also completed a qualitative questionnaire two weeks into the study–after 14 days of applying either the active or placebo formulation.

For subjects using the formulation with the 3% beauty complex, the results were highly significant compared to the placebo group.

Visibly smoother skin in one day

Example of Visia-CR images for one particular subject; from left: untreated (day 0), 3% active formulation (day 1), 3% active formulation (week 2) and 3% active formulation (week 4).Example of Visia-CR images for one particular subject; from left: untreated (day 0), 3% active formulation (day 1), 3% active formulation (week 2) and 3% active formulation (week 4).dsm-FirmenichChanges in skin smoothness compared to day 0 were assessed at defined sites around the cheek area using Visia-CR + IPP software. These assessments showed that skin was 16% smoother within one day of applying the active formulation and 23% smoother after four weeks (28 days). Images taken by Visia-CR camera also showed that the skin was already visibly smoother after one day and that this change was even more pronounced by weeks two and four. An example of these images for a selected volunteer is shown below:

Forehead wrinkles, crow’s feet, and wrinkles underneath the eye reduced significantly in two weeks

Crow’s feet: Volume of lines decreased 6% in two weeks and 9% in four weeks. Number decreased 29% in two weeks and 31% in four weeks.Crow’s feet: Volume of lines decreased 6% in two weeks and 9% in four weeks. Number decreased 29% in two weeks and 31% in four weeks.dsm-FirmenichChanges in the volume and number of crow’s feet, forehead wrinkles and under eye wrinkles compared to day 0 were evaluated by Primos CR at defined sites. In all cases, a significant and noticeable reduction in these lines was observed after two weeks with more pronounced changes recorded after four weeks:

  • Forehead: Volume of wrinkles decreased 7% in two weeks and 12% in four weeks. Number of wrinkles decreased 25% in two weeks and 28% in four weeks.
  • Under the eye: Volume of wrinkles decreased 7% in two weeks and 10% in four weeks. Number of wrinkles decreased 30% in two weeks and 32% in four weeks.
  • Crow’s feet: Volume of lines decreased 6% in two weeks and 9% in four weeks. Number decreased 29% in two weeks and 31% in four weeks.

Firmer neck skin with improved elasticity 

Changes in skin elasticity and firmness on the neck compared to day 0 were assessed using a Cutometer MPA580. REGU®-AGE CB achieved significant improvements versus the placebo. Skin elasticity on the neck increased 2% in two weeks and 5% in four weeks. For skin firmness on the neck, an 8% improvement was recorded after two weeks and a 12% improvement after four weeks.

A visible reduction in neck lines in two weeks

Changes in the length and number of neck lines compared to day 0 were evaluated by Primos CR. Images of a selected subject taken by Antera 3D; from left: untreated (day 0), 3% active formulation (week 2) and 3% active formulation (week 4).Changes in the length and number of neck lines compared to day 0 were evaluated by Primos CR. Images of a selected subject taken by Antera 3D; from left: untreated (day 0), 3% active formulation (week 2) and 3% active formulation (week 4).dsm-FirmenichChanges in the length and number of neck lines compared to day 0 were evaluated by Primos CR. Based on these assessments, the length of neck lines reduced 22% in two weeks, and up to 42% in four weeks. The number of neck lines reduced by 15% in two weeks, and up to 34% in four weeks.

Images taken by Antera 3D reflected these changes, showing a visible reduction in neck lines after two weeks and an even more pronounced improvement after 4 weeks. These changes can be seen in the example above.

Skin looks healthier in two weeks

After 14 days of applying either REGU®-AGE CB or the placebo formulation, all study participants completed a qualitative questionnaire covering six criteria. The feedback they provided reflected and further supported the in vivo observations, with a higher number of subjects who had used the formulation with 3% of the beauty complex responding positively compared to subjects in the placebo group. More volunteers in the active formulation group reported that after two weeks of use, lines and wrinkles in the eye area looked smoother, dark circles under their eyes had reduced, their eyelids appeared more lifted and their skin looked less saggy with more defined facial contours. Noticeably more respondents in this group also agreed that their skin looked healthier after two weeks of use.

REGU®-AGE CB, the real beauty multi-talented natural peptide. A true holistic beauty solution that enhances skin health and personal wellbeing while respecting the planet.

The ingredient in summary

  • Clean holistic beauty complex
  • INCI name (active): Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Protein, Superoxide Dismutase
  • Commercial name: REGU®-AGE CB
  • Carefully purified rice and soybean peptides + 1 skin identical superoxide dismutase
  • 98.67% natural origin
  • Phenoxyethanol free
  • No palm oil derivative
  • Vegan friendly

REGU®-AGE CB, a natural multi-peptide solution delivering scientifically proven, outstanding results.

dsm-firmenich Beauty & Care

A House of Science beyond Wellbeing.

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