Royal DSM has announced that its active skin care peptide SYN-UP (INCI: Amidinobenzyl Benzylsulfonyl D-Seryl Homophenylalaninamide Acetate) has been approved as a New Cosmetic Ingredient (NCI) in China under the country’s latest cosmetic legislation.
SYN-UP is a synthetic dipeptide derivative suitable for use in a number of skin care applications. With Chinese approval formulations can now be created worldwide with the product.
According to Royal DSM, in China, responsibility for cosmetic premarket approval lies with the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA). As of May 2021, NCI registration is now based on risk level. This means that while new cosmetic ingredients with a function of high risk must undergo a full registration procedure, other ingredients can undergo a quicker notification procedure.
There are six categories of NCI approval based on an ingredient’s risk function and whether evidence of three years’ safe use in cosmetics can be provided. With SYN-UP, DSM has achieved approval in category 3.
Category 3 approval requires five criteria over three years of use. To this end, a project team began working on NCI registration for the peptide in 2016.
Jocelyn Jiao, DSM regulatory affairs manager, Greater China, commented: “Our project team has worked tirelessly for several years to achieve NCI registration for SYN-UP and their hard work has paid off as it is the high-quality dossier they prepared and submitted that has convinced the authorities here. We are now well placed to meet the requirements of any future post-notification inspection, from any authority, and to support our customers with any safety and efficacy justifications they need for finished cosmetic products containing our peptide."