Insider Insights: Sun Care & Color Cosmetics Trends + Launches | Packaging for Beauty | Ingestible Best Practices

Featured insiders:

• Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America, Inc.
• Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG
• Draco Natural Products
• dsm-firmenich
• HCP Packaging
• ICONS|ICS
• Uviva Technologies

Global Cosmetic Industry recently spoke with beauty insiders to highlight sun care ingredient launches and trends, as well as trends and launches in the color cosmetics and packaging for beauty space.

Let's Talk About Sun Care 

As summer approaches, sun care is front of mind for many consumers. This month we bring it to the forefront and focus on what is trending in this space.

Mineral-based Products

Jeroen van den Bosch, managing director, Uviva technologies, says, “A very clear trend that has intensified in the past year(s) is the quest for mineral-based products that are aesthetically more pleasing. This is linked to the need for more inclusive skin and sun care products that are aesthetically pleasing on different skin tones. The FDA's current draft monograph is only considering ZnO and TiO₂ as GRASE UV ingredients and several of the remaining approved filters in the USA are either not desired any longer in so-called 'reef safe' sunscreens and others, such as homosalate have been critically reviewed by the SCCS in Europe, leading to use restrictions in different product types. This is driving the development and launch of more mineral-based systems that pose two main challenges. Firstly, high loads of ZnO and TiO₂ tend to result in products that leave a ghosting effect, especially on darker skin tones and secondly, high loads of mineral filters modify the viscosity and aesthetics of products, making them less easy and pleasant to apply. These two drawbacks drive the trends mentioned earlier. This is achieved by choosing different and new grades of mineral filters that are more transparent, the use of new boosters to reach high SPF values and the use of new emollients to produce better sun care products. It is also noted that this trend applies to both 'sunscreens' (i.e. products used with a specific purpose to provide sun protection like beach sunscreens) as well as daily wear products and cosmetics where SPF is increasingly important.”

Van den Bosch continues, “The major launch of Uviva was Eclipse Z1 in 2023, a grade of zinc oxide with a new and specific morphology that has two main effects. The first is that it provides transparency levels that are the best in the industry today, while not sacrificing the SPF and UVA performance like most other transparency zinc oxides do. This is also very useful in color cosmetics where it has little to no impact on the product's color, making color matching less challenging when adding SPF protection. Secondly, the regular morphology of Eclipse Z1 has an extremely low impact on oil phase viscosity and this directly translates in the overall sensorial aspects of a formula. Blind panel studies showed that identical formulations using Eclipse significantly perform and score better on aspects such as skin feel, formula spreadability and transparency. The most recent product launch of Uviva is Eclipse G1—a granulated form of Eclipse Z1. It provides all the formula benefits indicated above, but solves one major issue in working with powders in general: dust formation in the lab or production. Thus far, the only solution to avoid it was to use dispersions which have their own pros and cons. Eclipse G1 granules are 100% zinc oxide in granulated form and thus offer complete formulation freedom and advanced ease of use as it is a free-flowing product as well.”

Multi-functional Products

Annika Groenick, product and sales manager, Berg + Schmidt GmbH & Co. KG, says, “Sun care has traditionally been a category driven by seasonal sales. As UV radiation is known to be one of the major causes of skin cancer and premature skin aging, SPF is essential not only in traditional sunscreens but also in daily care products. This makes it all the more important that UV filters can be easily integrated into a wide range of products such as light day creams, sun oil sprays, sun creams and other skin care ranges.”

Groenick continues, “We launched four UV Filter at in-cosmetics in Paris this year. BergaSun BEMT is an effective oil-soluble broadband filter that effectively blocks both UVA and UVB rays. Its high photostability makes it particularly useful for stabilizing other sunscreens. BergaSun EHS, on the other hand, is a chemical UVA filter that provides broad coverage together with effective UVB filters and can help to increase the sun protection factor. Its outstanding photostability, good solubility and flexible formulation make it an excellent choice for modern sun protection products, while BergaSun EHT offers an effective solution for UVB protection. As an oil-soluble filter, it can be easily integrated into the oil phase of emulsions or sunscreen formulations and leaves the skin feeling pleasant and non-greasy. Finally, BergaSun DHHB offers another highly effective oil-soluble UVB filter. Its synergistic effect in combination with other UV filters makes it a valuable component in sun protection products.”

Scented Formulas

Brian Grady, senior marketing specialist, dsm-firmenich, says, "While there is an increased consumer awareness of sun protection's importance, some consumers have been discouraged from adding sun protection to their daily routine because they felt that sunscreens had an unpleasant smell. The sun care industry is aware of this fact and is addressing the issue. There are many new sunscreens on the market that have scents that are appealing to the senses. dsm-firmenich’s EmotiWaves is fragrance technology that is designed to elicit a targeted emotion, supported by neurological activity. These ingredients are validated and subjected to fMRI brain activity and perfumers can create fragrances that capture the power of scent to uplift consumers’ moods. I think we will see more technologies like this in the near future."

Food-based Botanical Extracts

Brien Quirk, director of R&D, Draco Natural Products, says, “The use of food-based botanical extracts, because wholesome foods that you ingest are better for your skin than chemicals or unknown botanicals. Another trend is the use of mushroom and berries extracts for skin which are on an upswing. Some examples are extracts of oyster mushroom, goji berries, blue honeysuckle berry and maitake. An oyster mushroom-based cream tested against skin damage caused by simulated UVA/UVB exposure improved skin moisture, skin brightness/radiance, skin elasticity and total antioxidant capacity in 20 human volunteers tested over 30 days. It also reduced redness damage.”

Quirk continues, “Goji berries contain water soluble polysaccharides that are active against UVB-induced photo-damage and can protect skin cell viability by decreasing reactive oxygen species, and inflammatory and DNA types of damage. Most research is for UV-B, the wavelength that causes burning, but there are fewer tests of natural ingredients that reduce UVA damage. Blue Honeysuckle Berry protects against UVA damage to keratinocytes cells in sun-exposed skin by reducing reactive oxygen species. UVA can penetrate through glass and windshields while people are driving, unaware of the damage because UVA doesn’t cause the redness or burning but it does accelerate photoaging by damaging DNA. Honeyberry extract is a great example of a sun care anti-aging food-based ingredient, and in this study it was only needed at a very low concentration of 50 mg of extract per 1,000 ml solution to be effective. Maitake mushroom is another food/mushroom that helps with protection against UVA. It showed photoprotective effects when tested in human dermal fibroblasts (HDF) exposed to ultraviolet-A (UVA) light by reducing the collagen degrading enzyme, collagenase (MMP-1). Collagenase is the main pathway for loss of collagen from excess sun exposure so by blocking or minimizing this the skin can be protected against the ravages of aging that sun exposure causes.”

Quirk concludes, “Olive leaf is an all-natural food-like herb used as a medicinal herb tea to boost immunity and is loaded with antioxidant compounds. It also has a benefit for reducing inflammation which is a typical response of excess sun exposure. We have tested our olive leaf extract in an anti-inflammatory assay and found it to reduce IL-1 β inflammation by 99% when used at only 0.05% in a special polyol liquid preparation. Polyols are organic compounds also known as natural sugar alcohols. We also have a unique species of Schisandra berry with potent anti-inflammatory effects against a major sun-triggering inflammation pathway known as interleukin-6. This species is known as Southern Schisandra and our source is grown sustainably in a panda protection habitat in the Sichuan province of southern China. The results of our assay showed almost 60% inhibition of this inflammation pathway. UV can induce oxidative stress which can increase both inflammation and pro-inflammatory cytokine activation such as interleukin-6 (IL-6). Sirtuins activated by southern Schisandra berry may be involved in the DNA repair from IL-6 damage.”

Grady says, "With heatwaves and record temperatures becoming more common, sun protection is essential. Ethical and eco-friendly sun care formulations are on the rise, incorporating sustainable practices like upcycled formulas and sustainably sourced botanicals. Brands are also focusing on skin inclusivity, offering diverse formats and textures to meet different preferences. Sun care products are increasingly blurring with skin care, featuring serum-like textures and skin care ingredients to even skin tone, minimize breakouts and protect against aging signs."

Grady adds, "Enthusiasm continues to build for the anticipated GRASE approval of Parsol Shield (bemotrizinol) in 2025. This approval will be significant because it will be the first UV filter to be introduced in the U.S. market in almost 25 years. Parsol Shield is the most efficient UVA-UVB filter with broad-spectrum performance, even at low levels. Additionally, Parsol Shield boasts an excellent eco-profile, enabling the creation of more sustainable sunscreens and enabling the creation of formulations suitable for different skin types. And since Parsol Shield is already approved in other regions, brands can use it to create a global chassis.”

2024 Color Cosmetics: What’s Trending?

Here we focus on the trends and launches in the color cosmetic space.

The dewy makeup look is trending among consumers.CREATE IMAGE at Adobe Stock

Dewy Makeup

Divya Namjoshi, technical and marketing specialist-IV, specialty and personal care, Ajinomoto Health & Nutrition North America, Inc., says, “‘Dewy makeup trend is becoming very popular. This involves minimalist makeup, embracing your natural skin and making it look glowing like a glazed donut. Ingredients that improve skin’s natural health, moisturization, and enhance stratum corneum’s transparency can make your skin luminous. Ajinomoto has recently launched Amihope SB series.  Amihope SB-101,  Amihope SB-102 and Amihope SB-103 are round shaped, 100% natural functional powders. They have high biodegradability and better sensory feel and soft-focus property than the existing natural powders. They impart excellent sensory feel, softness, blurring effect, high skin adhesion, moistness, evenness, and smoothness. They are excellent replacements for plastic microbeads.”

Namjoshi continues, “Another trend that is becoming popular is ‘strawberry makeup’ or ‘monochrome makeup.’ In this trend the makeup base is dewy and sheer with a flush of pink blush on the apples of the cheeks and on the lips. By using a multipurpose product, you can create a soft pink monochrome makeup look. This trend again embraces natural skin and focuses on improving skin’s condition. The overall focus for various makeup trends is on the skin. Nurturing the skin, hydrating it, and keeping the skin healthy, young and radiant makes the perfect base for flawless makeup.”

Radiance & Illumination

Rebecca M. Vaiarelli, marketing manager, says, “Radiance and illumination continue to evolve and exist now as an essential part of almost all facial and color cosmetic products. The completely bare look gives way to a balance between coverage and even coloristic tone. Functional fillers and pearl pigments can support these claims by going beyond the simple hint of a glow to adding in soft focus effects along with transparent coverage. On the color side, individuality, and expressionism reign supreme with bright and bold colors leading the way. Creativity with a flair—almost anything goes while always leaving room for a classic red lip.”

Vaiarelli continues, “RonaFlair Infinity embodies the next level in functional filler pigments offering a unique combination of extremely high transparency with excellent soft focus coverage, perfect for all skin tones. RonaFlair Luminous Glow offers discreet and natural radiance thanks to its novel platelet structure. The new Ronaflux series ushers in a new generation of pigment technology—available in five intense, metal-like sparkling colors including blue and green shades with no ferric ferrocyanide or chromium oxide greens, in harmony with regulatory requirements.”

What's New in Packaging for Beauty?

Here we focus on the trends and launches in the color cosmetic space.

Multi-tasking Products

Sarah Chen, marketing and communications manager at ICONS|ICS, says, “In our busy world where time is often an asset, consumers are looking for convenience and products that multi-task. That means packaging with built-in applicators that simplify the application experience, as well as travel-friendly and multi-functional packaging that can be used across a wide range of lip, eye and face formulations.”

The ICONS|ICS range of tubes with innovative applicators are intended for a wide array of lip, eye and face formulations and include new applicator shapes and styles of rollerballs, spatulas, scrubbers, flocked tips, sponges and brushes.

Chen continues, “Injecting fun into function, ICONS|ICS recently launched new tubes with innovative applicators and chubby doefoot packaging. Our growing ICONS|ICS range of tubes with innovative applicators are versatile options for a wide array of lip, eye and face formulations and include new applicator shapes and styles of rollerballs, spatulas, scrubbers, flocked tips, sponges and brushes. From 16 mmD to 40 mmD tubes, ICONS|ICS offers a breadth of sizes available in sustainable tube sleeve material options, including PCR, Ocean Plastic and Sugarcane. Our ICONS|ICS new collection of flush-fit chubby doefoot packaging are likewise perfect for various lip and face formulations—from lip oils, tints and glosses to concealers and liquid blushes. Ranging from 7.5 ml to 21 ml OFC and available with chubby doefoots for an easy, one-swipe application. These chic chubby doefoot packaging are ideal for the on-the-go consumer who wants to travel light while looking their best, ready to take on the world. Add an eco-edge to your chubby doefoot packaging range by choosing options made with a recyclable PET bottle, cap and wand or incorporate PCR.”

Stephanie Rowntree, international product manager, HCP Packaging, says, “Multi-tasking and portable cosmetic and skin care products are becoming increasingly popular on the market as a travel-friendly convenience that caters for consumers with on-the-go lifestyles. With consumers demanding ease and convenience from their beauty routines, many are opting for hybrid products that combine active skin care ingredients with cosmetic formulas to both nourish and enhance the skin’s complexion. As a travel-friendly packaging solution, tottles can be produced in a range of material mixes suitable for housing sensitive and active formulas which require optimum barrier protection such as SPF, serums and moisturizers. The lightweight and portable form of a tottle makes it an ideal packaging solution for use on-the-go, featuring a secure closure to protect against leakage and maintain product integrity. The squeezable tottle and slim nozzle of HCP’s Color Capsule delivers a hygienic, targeted application compared with the process a traditional skin care jar offers that requires application with the fingertips.”

HCP Packaging's Color Capsule collection provides precise and targeted application for a range of complexion and skin care formulas.

Rowntree adds, “The Color Capsule is an innovative new pack design from HCP's Design Futures team, created to enhance the appeal of skin care and complexion products, through desirably chic packaging. The squeezable construction and slender nozzle enables controlled and targeted application, whilst its portable and compact format makes it the ideal solution for travel. Supplied in a variety of material mixes, the Color Capsule provides precise and targeted application for a range of mid-to-high viscosity complexion and skin care formulas.”

Luxurious Aluminum

Rowntree says “Luxurious aluminum packaging is also gaining popularity in the beauty landscape due to the materials versatility and premium aesthetics. Indulging in the opulence of aluminum, HCP’s Industrial Luxe lipstick collection showcases a refillable and mono-material stock packaging adorned with tactile forever finishes, creating a set of trophy lipsticks designed to be treasured.” 

The Industrial Luxe lipstick collection from HCP Packaging showcases a refillable and mono-material stock packaging.

Rowntree adds, “A refillable lipstick that combines style with a sustainable packaging format, HCP’s Devotion Luxe Refill Lipstick is a classic full-size pack that combines a high-performance mechanism with a luxury, aluminum refillable design. Featuring HCP’s patented Click & Use mechanism to encourage brand loyalty whilst the sleek and shiny appearance of the aluminum instantly elevates the overall look and feel of the product, creating a sense of indulgence and exclusivity for consumers.”

Sustainable Packaging

Chen says, “At ICONS|ICS, we are also seeing beauty packaging with rounded shapes garner growing interest as well as square and organic shapes with a sustainable touch that incorporate recycled content and that are easy to recycle or reuse. At ICONS|ICS, we remain committed to providing sustainable packaging to cater to this demand. As a testament of our efforts, we were recently awarded EcoVadis Platinum status for the second year in a row as well as receiving an EcoVadis Sustainability Leadership Award for the AMEA region.”

Beauty Brand Expansion Through Ingestible Nutraceuticals: Opportunities and Considerations

By Shakeela Hashmi, R&D manager at Lief Labs

Shakeela Hashmi is the research and development manager at Lief Labs.

Following the COVID-19 pandemic, the landscape of supplementation has shifted from being solely associated with curing or preventing ailments to becoming an integral part of daily life for many. For beauty brands, venturing into the ingestible nutraceutical space offers a strategic opportunity to diversify revenue streams, strengthen market presence and better serve evolving consumer needs as they seek healthier lifestyles.

Many leading companies are embracing a holistic approach and adding ingestible products to broaden their existing line of topical beauty products. While topical and ingestible products target different biological pathways, they can complement each other in delivering improved benefits to support a wider range of potential health targets beyond traditional skin, hair and nails, while also driving business growth.

Key Considerations for Expanding into the Ingestible Space

Beauty brands should be aware that navigating the ingestible space requires meticulous attention to health and safety standards and regulatory guidelines that are unique to this space. 

Ingestible products require adherence to specific labeling requirements and must follow FDA guidelines around claims substantiation. Ingredient sourcing must prioritize quality, safety and efficacy of sourced ingredients. 

In addition, formulations must be carefully designed to ensure shelf-life stability of active ingredients in their respective dosage form. It is important that the intended consumers are aware and understand the benefits of the product. Beauty brands must be able to clearly demonstrate value and quality through transparency around sources of ingredients, manufacturing best practices and certifications (such as non-GMO, Halal, Kosher, organic, etc.), where applicable.

Beneficial Ingredients in Beauty Supplement Product Development

As the holistic ingestible beauty supplement market is growing, some key ingredients have become a notable part of this growth.

The following are a few examples of standout ingredients for beauty supplement product development: 

• Probiotics and prebiotics: Supports gut health, can help alleviate skin conditions like acne and eczema and support overall skin, hair and nail health.
• Collagen combined with high-potency vitamin C: Stimulates collagen synthesis and assists in antioxidant protection against UV-induced photodamage.
• Adaptogenic herbs: Adaptogens such as ginseng, rhodiola, ashwagandha, mushrooms and schisandra aid in hormone and stress management which can in turn help alleviate stress-related conditions which can impact skin, hair and nail health.
• Botanicals and algae: Botanicals such as spirulina and chlorella (both algae), and the spice turmeric offer a variety of benefits for overall wellness including support for gut microbiome, immune system, anti-inflammatory and collagen production.
• Hyaluronic acid: Can support joint health and aid in skin texture, flexibility and hydration.
• Colostrum: Bovine colostrum (cow's milk following the first few days after giving birth) can aid in immune system support and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Potential skin care benefits include reducing appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and improved hydration.
• Plant-based ceramides (phytoceramides) and glycolipids: Potential benefits include decreasing skin dryness and hyperpigmentation and supporting overall skin health for anti-aging and other skin care products. 

Overall, the holistic beauty industry's embrace of ingestible nutraceutical products reflects a paradigm shift towards comprehensive wellness solutions. By carefully navigating this space and leveraging key ingredients, beauty brands can not only meet the evolving needs of consumers but also drive sustainable growth and differentiation in a competitive landscape.