Featured insiders:
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Featured insiders:
- Accupac
- Berlin Package
- Epopack
- Federal Package
- Givaudan Active Beauty
- International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S, Denmark
- Ichimaru Pharcos
- LipoTrue
- Mibelle Biochemistry
- Neenah
- Orlandi, Inc.
- Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe
- Symrise
What's Debuting at in-cosmetics Global 2024?
Global Cosmetic Industry sought out what beauty ingredients are launching at in-cosmetics Global, held April 16-18, 2024 in in Paris, France.
Skin Care
Laia Farré, product manager, LipoTrue, says, “LipoTrue presents at in-cosmetics Global 2024 the new revolution of the fragment’s era. The latest incorporation of their Fragments remastered line. A biomimetic fibrillin fragment produced in wild plants as biofactories through vertical farming. Collagen fibers, DEJ, and elastic fibers are the three pillars of skin biomechanical properties, which are considerably altered with age. The novel fragment extends the concept of skin flexibility by not only reinforcing elastic fibers but also by boosting cell elasticity and strengthening the ECM.”
Farré continues, “Furthermore, LipoTrue has opened a door to a new dimension for acne with the new AI-optimized 3-in-1 in 1 Peptide. What is the probability of finding a single peptide for three specific targets? Through artificial intelligence, LipoTrue has discovered the unlikely, a smart peptide that interacts with three different key targets involved in acne to reduce inflammation, sebum, and pore size. Come and discover these two new launches at the technical seminar and booth 1H50 at in-cosmetics Global 2024.”
Kentaro Hirose, marketing, Ichimaru Pharcos, says, “Our new beauty ingredients are JuniperBright and Fermentage aloe vera. JuniperBright is a juniper berry extract that promotes proteasome and autophagy activities. These mechanisms are effective in reducing/preventing lipofuscin formation and improving melanin-independent skin brightness. It means JuniperBright aims for race-independent borderless beauty. Fermentage aloe vera is an aloe vera extract fermented by plant-derived Lactobacillus plantarum. It effectively supplies dry skin with moisturizing factors obtained by fermentation."
Ichimaru Pharcos is launching JuniperBright at in-cosmetics Global.
Sabrina Mizael, global product manager-micro protection and Marine Ortega, marketing project leader, Syrmise, say, "Meet Savelite HB, the new basic reshaping product protection in cosmetics. This hydroxypropyl benzoate, multifunctional, harnesses the power of well-known molecules to deliver ground-breaking protection for your products, providing broad-spectrum antimicrobial protection, beyond additional benefits. This new basic also defends the formulation against oxidation and enhances emulsion stability. Gentle for the microbiome, Savelite HB also demonstrated moisturization for the skin. Liquid, colorless, transparent and odorless—formulation just got easier. Ensuring a sustainable future, Savelite HB is eco-friendly, readily biodegradable, and derived from manufacturing practices align with the green chemistry. Savelite HB is the innovation you've been waiting for. It aligns perfectly with Symrise's commitment to effective, safe, and sustainable solutions. Join the future of cosmetics today."
Fabrice Lefèvre, marketing and innovation director, Givaudan Active Beauty, says, "Illuminyl 388 is an augmented green tea polyphenol, based on cell free glycosylation. This biotech improved EGCG molecule drastically improves the molecular stability, solubility and biodisponibility. Targeting all the main stages of the pigmentation process (melanogenesis, tyrosinase activity, melanin transfer…), together with a powerful antioxidant activity, this new active efficiently brightens the skin tone. This action is innovatively reinforced by a synergistic prebiotic activity, favoring the growth of specific bacteria in the skin microbiome, releasing a powerful niacin-derivative. Illuminyl 388 brightening efficacy has been demonstrated at the clinical level on more than 200 volunteers with four different skin types. Illuminyl 388 is 100% safe and China compliant.
Hair Care
Aline Bartels, PR & Communication Manager at Mibelle Biochemistry, says, “Mibelle Biochemistry will launch a new innovative and sustainable hair care ingredient at in-cosmetics global, which is inspired by the concept of pine cone scales that open and close depending on weather conditions. Their new upcycled ingredient is made from pine cones that were hand-harvested in French forests classified as Forêt d' Exception by the 'Office National des Forêts' in France. It’s a powerful moisturizer for the hair shaft and can combat dry and damaged hair. It not only penetrates the hair, but also retains water by evening out the hair cuticle, making the hair smoother and shinier. This bioinspired ingredient prevents split ends and improves hair fiber integrity, making it more resistant to daily stress and breakage. It also supports keratinocyte differentiation in the hair matrix, which makes the hair grow healthier and stronger.”
Mibelle Biochemistry will launch a new sustainable hair care ingredient made from pine cones at in-cosmetics Global.
Philip Shukla, president, International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S, Denmark, says, “Skinification of hair and scalp products is a growing trend as consumers are looking for hair nourishment products with natural ingredients to minimize effects of pollution, UV and stress on the hair and scalp which increase the free radicals in the scalp leading to hair loss. Natural ingredients like Centella asiatica (CICA) and rosemary are in high demand currently. To cater increased need for such natural ingredients for hair nourishment which can prevent the hair damage and loss, ICSC is launching Cosmosil HG Oil I.S. (INCI: Argan oil, amla extract, rosemary extract, Centella asiatica extract), a unique blend of extracts of amla, rosemary, Centella asiatica with argan oil for conditioning and nourishing hair. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties which minimizes free radicals as well as protecting the hair and scalp. It is internally stabilized for longer shelf life and stability. Excellent choice in anti-hair loss and hair growth products.”
International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S, Denmark is launching Cosmosil HG Oil I.S. at in-cosmetics Global.
Vaijnath Lad, senior manager creative cosmetics technologies, International Cosmetics Science Centre A/S, Denmark, says, “We have observed growing demand for organic certified hair care products and sustainable format products with concepts like solid shampoo, solid conditioners, hair color sticks which are preferred by eco-conscious consumers. Due to increasing requests for organic certified and sustainable natural ingredients for latest trends like waterless or solid beauty products, ICSC has launched new product Cosmosil HCB Oil I.S. Organic (INCI: Cocos nucifera oil, Argania spinosa kernel oil and Moringa oleifera seed oil). It is a specially created blend of organic certified oils for conditioning hair and moisturizing scalp. The oil is internally stabilized for longer shelf life and stability. It is an excellent choice for hair nourishment, conditioning and moisturization.”
Marcia Paula, global category director hair care, and Elaine Santanna, marketing director CI, Symrise, say, "Peptides are well-known and recognized for their efficacy in skin, now also in hair care. Our natural peptides from organic lupin are properly designed and selected by a patented biotechnology process. Thanks to the small size of our selected peptides, SymProt’in Lupin deeply penetrates and repair hair fiber. They will target the damaged area to establish new bonds and interaction within the cortex and restore the keratin’s quality, effectively improving the strength and resistance of the fiber against deformation and breakage."
Symrise's new ingredient launch, SymProt’in Lupin, at in-cosmetics Global features peptides from organic lupin that deeply penetrates and repairs hair fiber.
Sun Care
Estelle Lenoir, sales promotion and marketing manager for Shin-Etsu Silicones Europe, says, “Today, sun care products are more than just a beauty routine, they are a necessity for skin well-being. Achieving high SPF sun care products with great stability and sensory continues to pose challenges to formulators. Shin-Etsu will be showcasing new ingredients and concepts for sun care innovation focusing on certain raw materials from its range of dispersions, dispersants, emulsifiers, solvents and particularly highlighting its new water based TiO2 dispersion. Ready to discover how to combine effectiveness, elegance and protection under the bright sun of cosmetic beauty? You are welcome to attend our technical seminar on Thursday, April 18, 2024 in Theatre 2 at 11 a.m.”
Lefèvre says, "Neuroglow is a breakthrough active ingredient designed to replicate all the positive effects of the sun on skin and brain. This 'molecular sun' is crafted by Green Fractionation from Persicaria tinctoria, commonly known as the indigo plant. Neuroglow not only prepares the skin for sun exposure and promotes the tanning process, but also protects the skin from the potential side effects of overexposure. Neuroglow boosts the beneficial properties of the sun, stimulating melanin (+126%). By boosting melanin production, Neuroglow prepares the skin to sun exposure and prevents potential inflammatory damage caused by UV rays, for a faster, healthier and more natural and protected tan."
Lefèvre continues, "A clinical trial demonstrated a remarkable phototype shift in 76% of participants in just 7 days, moving from phototype II to phototype III, and of these, 40% even shifted to a darker phototype IV, compared to 0% in the placebo group. Like the sun, Neuroglow improves general well-being and energy. It promotes the release in the skin of well-being molecules like beta-endorphin (+43%*), vitamin D (+345%#) and oxytocin (+229%***). In a clinical trial with "winter blues'' volunteers -experiencing seasonal mood changes due to lack of sunlight-, Neuroglow reduced tiredness, increased feelings of affection, and improved "winter blues" status, with 81% of volunteers reporting a positive scoring. The result? A healthy glow and enhanced well-being all year round even in combination with SPF. Neuroglow is 100% natural origin, Cosmos and China compliant."
Fragrance
Christophe de Jouvancourt, global product manager-botanicals and Melanie Marquis, marketing project manager, Symrise, say, "Our Flowerconcentrole collection aims to reveal the powerful olfactive benefits of flower extracts to offer neurocosmetic and mindful solutions. Supported by neuroscience technologies, our Symrise’s experts have been able to prove the influence of scents on our emotions and link the olfactive properties of flowers to mood enhancement benefits. Sustainably sourced, our rose, lavender, rose geranium and Ylang Ylang extracts have been tested on nine positive emotions and are proven to stimulate emotions like: relaxation, protection, joy, wellbeing and freshness."
Contract Manufacturing Trends: Skin Care
Consumers are more conscious than ever before when it comes to the skin care products they use.Adobestock/Rido
Conscious Consumer
Sarah Grobel, director of sales and business development, Federal Package, says, “Consumers are increasingly conscious of environmental impact leading to a demand for sustainable packaging and ingredients. The trend toward using products with natural and transparently sourced ingredients continues to grow, driving manufacturers to meet these standards. Overall, we are navigating a landscape where consumers are seeking products that not only deliver results but also align with their values, lifestyles, and a personalized experience.”
Scientifically-proven Ingredients
Michelle Chavez, vice president of innovation, Accupac, says, “The skin care category will continue to expand, fueled by consumer desire for better, faster, stronger results. Dermatologists have become the new influencers and professional procedures are forecasted to grow. This will lead to an influx of products that help prep the skin for these types of treatments and also help extend their results. Consequently, we will see a demand for scientifically proven and medical grade ingredients that are safe and effective. Younger demographics will experiment with professional treatments earlier in an effort to preserve the health of their skin and prevent, rather than repair, signs of aging. This proactive approach to skin care is just part of a larger proactive wellbeing trend we are seeing, with consumers being more purposeful with their lifestyle, diet, sleep and exercise habits in order to proactively take care of their health. Sustainability will underpin these shifts, as consumers are also concerned about repairing and preventing further damage to the planet. Natural skin actives are making their way into every beauty segment and companies will continue to look for ingredients that are both powerful and sustainable.”
Packaging for Beauty Launches
Sustainability and immersion are two keys of beauty for packaging in 2024.Adobe Stock/rufous/generated with AI
Global Cosmetic Industry highlights several new packaging for beauty launches that reflect current consumer trends.
Sustainability
Jennifer Dietz, senior product manager, Neenah, says, “As sustainability increasingly becomes a standard expectation, brands are striving to differentiate themselves and appeal to more distinct target demographics. A notable trend emerging is a shift towards a pared-down, minimalistic aesthetic, where simplicity reigns supreme. This less is more approach emphasizes the importance of paper selection in conveying the essence of the brand, becoming an integral part of the identity. Conversely, there's a growing movement targeting younger generations with a whimsical, artistic, and hand-crafted visual identity. This trends aligns seamlessly with the use of uncoated or textured board, which feels more authentic while reinforcing the message of sustainability.”
Dietz continues, “We are in the process of re-launching Neenah Folding Board with several new items. We launched a new 16pt. in Bright White and 100 PC White to offer more flexibility for brands with multiple sized items in a product line. We’ve also relaunched our Natural Pearl C1S, which is perfect for beauty brands. Stay tuned for several more additions to the line coming soon.”
Amy Pan, president, Epopack, says, "What we're witnessing in the beauty industry today is a profound transformation, where sustainability has transcended from being a mere trend to an essential pillar of brand identity and consumer expectation. As consumers become increasingly conscious of their environmental footprint and demand transparency from the brands they support, the call for sustainable packaging has never been louder. What's fascinating about this shift is that it's not just about being 'green' anymore. While eco-friendliness remains a fundamental aspect, consumers now seek something more holistic—they're looking for beauty products that align with their values, offer a complete experience, and even delight them aesthetically. In essence, sustainable packaging has evolved into a symbol of beauty in its own right."
Epopack has launched a 100 ml mono-material premium jar, the latest addition to the MJ family. These jars stand out for their mono-material PET construction, ensuring easy recycling. This subtle shift makes recycling easier, simplifying the separation process. Opt for 100% PCR PET for enhanced sustainability.
Sven Dobler, president and CEO of Orlandi, Inc., says, “Sustainability has been a strong trend in beauty packaging over the last few years, especially in Europe, and is gaining momentum now in the United States. Historically, these efforts meant reducing the amount of plastic-based packaging, and many packaging products qualified as recyclable by simply keeping the non-recyclable plastic components to less than 20% by weight. Other materials were designed to break down in commercial composting facilities under controlled conditions - a step in the right direction. Still, the cost to recycle and separate these plastics and recover the recyclable components was too high, or localities did not have commercial composting facilities so many of these materials ended up getting landfilled anyway. Today, the newest push in beauty packaging is to be fully ‘curbside recyclable,’ meaning a consumer can dispose of the package in the regular recycling waste stream and local recycling companies can economically recycle the materials.”
Dobler continues, “Orlandi has taken action to mitigate damage caused by plastic-based consumer products, product packages, and single-use product samples. Our newly developed EcoPro Flow Wrap and Packette material is a high-barrier, heat-sealable paper that is fully curbside recyclable with zero plastic. It is a sustainable alternative to film pouches, some traditional packettes, and plastic blister cards, and is more cost-effective than paper-based folding cartons. Beauty brands have shown a lot of interest in using the material for packettes containing loose powder and as flow wrap packaging containing physical retail products. Wanting to be eco-friendly whenever possible, Tatcha early-adopted Orlandi’s EcoPro packettes for their Foaming Enzyme Powders, even while creams, lotions, and liquids still utilized traditional packette materials. Their focus on sustainability inspired other Orlandi brand partners to contact us for similar loose powder product packaging.”
Orlandi’s EcoPro packettes were used for Tatcha's Foaming Enzyme Powders.
Immersive Experiences
Moira Stein, insights and strategy manager, Berlin Packaging, says, “Consumers are looking for more personalized and immersive experiences and are ‘willing to pay more for products that satisfy them on a more experiential level,’ according to GlobalData. Younger consumers especially value experiences as much as the product itself. Personalized packaging, interactivity, unique unboxing, multi-sensory engagement and delightful surprises can meet consumer demand for elevated experiences.”
Berlin Packaging and Jansy recently created a holistic primary and secondary packaging solution for Shoppers Drug Mart’s 25 Days of Beauty Surprises.
Stein continues, “Berlin Packaging | Jansy recently created a holistic primary and secondary packaging solution for Shoppers Drug Mart’s 25 Days of Beauty Surprises. This complex project consisted of 32 products, 60+ components, 18,000-plus production units, LED lights and more. We custom-designed 25 inner cartons, each perfectly sized to accommodate one to two unique products and to fit together inside the display case. An illustrator created a wintery ski chalet scene with a light-up faux fireplace that creates a delightful surprise when consumers open the case. The package design is both beautiful and functional, creating a memorable and exciting consumer experience.”
Digitalization
Stein says, “Technology is playing an increasingly significant role in the everyday lives of today’s consumers. People are always ‘on’ and connected and looking for digital tools that help them save time and money, select the right products for their needs, reassure them of product quality and safety, and create unique user experiences. Packaging can help meet consumer demand for digitally connected products through quick response (QR) codes, radio-frequency identification (RFID) or near-field communication (NFC) tags, and sensors. After scanning a QR code on pack, shoppers can be redirected to a brand’s website where they can view product tutorials, browse other products, read reviews, discover ingredient information, find out about a company’s social or environmental initiatives and more.”
