Microfluidics has benefited the development of inkjet printing, DNA chips, micro-propulsion and more through the controlled manipulation of fluids on the sub-millimeter scale. Now, Capsum is leveraging this technology to create unique droplet effects and experiences for beauty.
The company, based Marseille, with offices in Paris, New York and Los Angeles, recently hosted an innovation gallery in New York to showcase its customized machinery and applications of the microfluidic effects it can produce.
While the latest “Artisan” collection uses silicones and centers on skin care/anti-aging, the company is working to develop natural/silicone-free solutions, as well as applications for color cosmetics.
Capsum’s R&D team has produced custom lab equipment to produce formulations—literally drop-by-drop—which offer a sensory and visual punch. The technology aligns with a broader trend toward highly sensory, transformational beauty products.
The company can scale its equipment from production volumes down to mobile lab size. The company can also tool equipment to meet the technical requests of its clients, meaning customized innovation is possible.
Fast-absorbing Sérum Riche was designed with Macrodrop concentré to produce a pigment-free sparkling effect and blending an oil and a serum effect.
Capsum’s MacroDrop technology allows for the creation of stabilized oil capsules without the use of surfactants. Droplet size can be precisely controlled, and formulas can comprise as much as 35% oil without sacrificing sensory qualities, according to the company.
The company’s surfactant-free ReoDrop technology combines visible bubbles and a cream made of invisible micro-capsules. According to the company, “The gelified visible bubbles melt over the skin upon application, offering freshness followed by utmost comfort.”
Finally, Capsum’s EmotiPearl technology allows for the production of pearls with a dual water and oil core. The pearls can be faintly tinted, two- or three-toned, or contain a spiral design.
Microfluidic Skin Care
Capsum displayed a gallery of “Artisan” formulations comprising its technology, including the Double Brume, an on-the-go mist designed with Macrodrop technology to house its lipophilic active ingredients, featuring a 5% oil phase, and comprising ingredients such as vitamin E, oolong blue tea from the Tamil Nadu hills to combat free radicals, cherry blossom do defend against blue light, and chia and larch polysaccharides for anti-pollution protection.
Fast-absorbing Sérum Riche was designed with Macrodrop concentré to produce a pigment-free sparkling effect and blending an oil and a serum effect. The Macrodrop allows for as much as a 25% of oil phase. The Sérum Riche turned into oil on the skin and left a thin, soft protective film with no greasy afterfeel. The formulation comprised borage oil for moisturization, raspberry for suppleness and elasticity, Spilanthes acmella to support the skin’s framework, and blue tea for skin defense.
Capsum’s Lotion Infusée leveraged EmotiPearl technology to offer an awakening watery splash comprising blue tea “leaves” that swirl in the bottle with each movement.
The Crème Destructurée featured visible and transparent capsules containing lipophilic ingredients that created a formula that melted away to produce a rich cream. The formulation was glycerin-, surfactant- and surfactant-free, and contained 10% of ReoBulle, a droplet technology that surrounds a slightly gelified oily core. ReoBulle droplets act as visible melting bubbles of 0.8-1.2 mm that impart a fresh and comfortable feel on skin. The Crème Destructurée comprised Givaudan Active Beauty’s Megassane microalgae cell detoxifier, blue tea and blue lily of the valley to protect the skin and restore DNA, respectively.
Capsum’s Lotion Infusée leveraged EmotiPearl technology to offer an awakening watery splash comprising blue tea “leaves” that swirl in the bottle with each movement. The formulation also comprised soothing lotus water and hydrating hyaluronic acid.