The future of cosmetics and personal care packaging was on full display at the 2018 Luxe Pack Monaco, offering a glimpse of the latest technical, sustainable and design innovations to drive consumer excitement and experience in-store, online, in social media feeds and post-purchase.
The event hosted nearly 9,300 attendees, more than half of which hailed from overseas, as well as 470 exhibitors. Here, we’ve collected some of the hot trends leading the conversation.
Glamming Up Color Cosmetics
Instagram-ready designs led HCP’s presentation at Luxe Pack Monaco, featuring four trend-inspired concepts.
Whisper is “inspired by the hazy imagery of nature” and features frosted and metallic crinkle effects. The concept’s graphics are digitally printed on the packaging and feature soft-touch metallic finishes and a transparent fliptone spray.
The mystical Aura designs featured color-shifting prismatic metallization, silver foil, glitter and sequins.
Whisper was featured in a design for the company’s 15 ml Radii Square Tottle, featuring a fliptone spray on a natural polypropylene tottle to generate a shimmering effect that from pink to gold.
The mystical Aura designs featured color-shifting prismatic metallization, silver foil, glitter and sequins.
HCP’s Sparkle & Shine concept, appropriate for limited edition and gift ranges, features sparkling decoration effects that can be applied to the company’s Radii Grande Compact.
Finally, the fairytale-inspired Magical Glitter Storm decoration is available on the Radii Square Pressed Powder compact.
The design includes synthetic hairs; plastic ferrules that can be lacquered in a variety of finishes, hot stamped, tamp printed, metallized or varnished; and a handle that can have the same decorating effects applied.
HCP also presented a range of new stock items, including the Luna Square Eyeshadow and Wet & Dry Compacts, the Radii Square Tottle 15 ml, the Radii Square Pressed Powder with “Glitter Storm,” the Radii Square Mascara and Radii Round Jeweled Blusher Compact.
Meanwhile, Cosmogen focused on a new range of six brushes featuring “infinite possibilities” for tuft shapes, allowing brands to create new makeup gestures for various areas of the face and body.
The design includes synthetic hairs; plastic ferrules that can be lacquered in a variety of finishes, hot stamped, tamp printed, metallized or varnished; and a handle that can have the same decorating effects applied. The company has suggested that its brushes could be tooled for foundation, blush, concealer, eyeshadow, and eyebrow and lip products.
6 Ways to Green Up Packaging
1. Sustainable Scent: Inside and Out
As sustainability, natural and organic innovations, and clean beauty demands converge, packaging manufacturers and designers have stepped up their games to meet brand, consumer and retailer demands for more ethical packaging.
The bottle weight has been reduced from 180 g to 130 g, resulting in a 21% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions.
Verescence was honored in the corporate social responsibility category at Luxe Pack Monaco’s green awards for its three-tiered sustainability program, articulated as “People First, Act for Society & Eco Solutions.” The program was recognized for delivering on its promise from general management to its manufacturing floor. The honor was received by Thomas Riou, CEO of the company.
Further reading: Green Packaging Drives Differentiation
Verescence also presented a collaboration with Givaudan, Upcycled, which paired an eco-designed bottle and fragrance. The high-end glass cap and bottle—standard mold Verso 100 ml—are 100% recyclable, according to the company. The bottle weight has been reduced from 180 g to 130 g, resulting in a 21% reduction in greenhouse gas emissions. The bottle’s silk-screening and lacquering are also reportedly eco-designed.
The pump’s carbon footprint is 21% lower than a standard metal screw pump, according to the company.
The fragrance, meanwhile, was formulated by Givaudan perfumer Marypierre Julien and comprised natural apple oil; Givaudan’s proprietary Akigalawood, a biotech material developed with mild processing that employs salt and water and which features patchouli-esque notes, as well as spicy pepper and agarwood facets; Atlas cedarwood NeoAbsolute from Morocco and cistus NeoAbsolute from Spain, both of which are created using Givaudan’s novel extraction technique; French orris butter; and naturally derived amber note from Givaudan, Ambrofix.
Meanwhile, Albéa’s refillable Spiral perfume pump, also displayed at the show, can be unscrewed to make the bottle refillable and recyclable. The pump’s carbon footprint is 21% lower than a standard metal screw pump, according to the company. The Spiral is available in a 100 ml format, as well as a rechargeable on-the-go 10 ml format.
In the secondary packaging realm, James Cropper 3D Products recently applied its ColourForm packaging, comprising 100% renewable wood fibers from “well-managed forests” and recycled content from the company’s own recycling plant, to greening up the box for the Floral Street fragrance brand.
“We really wanted to change the way perfume is presented with Floral Street and do it in a way that had a reduced effect on the planet—that means no cello-wrap, no rigid carton and no plastic inserts."
The packaging can incorporate any color, is reportedly fully recyclable with household paper and is also naturally biodegradable, “leaving no trace even if it does end up in landfill.” The solution, the companies argue, resolves what they see as the fragrance sector’s tendency toward wasteful packaging. The project announcement argues that the biodegradable box delivers “elegance that is environmentally friendly.”
“We really wanted to change the way perfume is presented with Floral Street and do it in a way that had a reduced effect on the planet—that means no cello-wrap, no rigid carton and no plastic inserts,” said Michelle Feeney, founder of Floral Street. “We worked with our design agency—Michael Nash Associates—and James Cropper 3D Products in a team approach to produce a complete packaging solution which included a lid, a base and interchangeable inserts for the various bottle sizes, which mirrored our beautiful yet industrial aesthetic. It was also essential for it to be fully recyclable and to be made using sustainable production methods.”
2. Green on the Go
Qualipac won the green award in the packaging solutions category for its makeup holder, L’Essential, which is ultrafine, lightweight and recyclable. The bio-sourced mono-material design is flexible; according to the company “each section can be simply and quickly individually replaced, thanks to an innovative recharge system.” L’Essentiel comes with a Paletbox designed to organize all the color harmonies. The overall concept is designed to be used on-the-go, according to the company.
3. Premiumizing Plastic Replacements
Metsä Board presented its SkinCare 2.0 gift box design during Luxe Pack Monaco, featuring the company’s fiber-based materials as a plastic replacement. The outer rigid box was formed with a pulp molding process, while the three inner cartons were made of lightweight paperboard. The lighter weight, unique design and high runnability performance on automated packaging lines make the design ideal for the future of upscale eco-beauty.
“The challenge facing many premium brands is how they can maintain and develop a premium positioning but at the same time meet the consumer demands for less packaging and for packaging with genuine sustainability credentials,” said Christophe Baudry, the company’s sales director, brand owners team.
4. PCR Innovation for a Circular Economy
Albéa presented its beauty innovations in a bustling boutique-style setting that highlighted its latest green innovations, including PCR in tubes and foam pumps that can help bring products and brands closer to a circular economy.
According to the company, Albéa produces 33 million tubes with PCR polyethylene. PCR reportedly reduces the carbon footprint of a tube by 16%—compared to a conventional Ø50 mm plastic tube, 200 ml with a 500 µm CebalCap—which means that the equivalent of 16 tons of CO2 are saved for every 1 million PCR tubes produced.
Albéa’s PCR foam pumps (cap, neck and actuator) reduce the design’s carbon footprint by 47% and are available in light gray, gray, black and green.
5. Bioplastics to the Rescue
Albéa’s latest green innovations come in addition to its bioplastic polyethylene foam bottles and tubes produced from Brazilian sugarcane. According to the company, the amount of sugarcane used to produce 1 kg of bio-based polyethylene has absorbed 3 kg of CO2 in its lifetime.
The bioplastic polyethylene tubes reportedly have a carbon footprint that is 76% smaller than a conventional alternative, while its bio-based polyethylene foam bottles have a carbon impact 47% smaller than a conventional design. Bioplastics are fully recyclable via existing collection channels, the firm asserts.
“This saves time and money during the manufacturing process and has the added benefit of taking a step toward recyclability.”
Eastman has collaborated with Groupe Rocher on a new eco design compact comprising Eastman Treva engineering bioplastic, a cellulose-based thermoplastic that allows designers to downgauge material as much as 50%, and possibly more. The Groupe Rocher design replaces metal hinge pins with plastic. The mold was designed by Novatra SAS.
“By eliminating metal and using fewer materials in the design, Groupe Rocher has created a compact case that requires fewer natural resources to produce, using less energy and eliminating secondary processing steps without compromising the packaging functionality and aesthetic brand codes,” said Stéphane Tétaud, packaging makeup development, Groupe Rocher. “This saves time and money during the manufacturing process and has the added benefit of taking a step toward recyclability.”
6. Lightening Up
Albéa’s Slim Cap and Thin-Wall tube (50 mm diameter) reportedly give the company’s new design a 33% lighter weight compared to an equivalent conventional design, as well as a 36-ton reduction in CO2 emissions. The Thin-Wall soft-feel skirt, comprising polyethylene, is 30% thinner than a conventional design, the company says, and has a restitution rate of 96%. The polypropylene Slim Cap has a flat head and edges designed to prevent water from stagnating. Combined, the Slim Cap and Thin-Wall tubes are recyclable via existing polyethylene and polypropylene recycling systems.
The palettes reportedly use about 30% less plastic than a conventional palette.
The company’s EZ’R fully recyclable lightweight foam pump, meanwhile, reportedly reduces total packaging weight by 53%, compared to its F2 foam pump. The production of 50,000 units reduces plastic consumption by 1.2 tons and its carbon footprint by 48%, resulting in a 3.6 ton reduction in CO2 emissions.
Albéa also introduced ultra-light mono-material polypropylene palettes, My Style Bag and My Little Case: ultra-light plastic palettes, designed in one piece My Style Bag and My Little Case are two palettes made from a single material (PP) and in a single piece, which makes them considerably easier to recycle. The palettes reportedly use about 30% less plastic than a conventional palette. The customizable My Style Bag can accommodate pressed and poured formulas, as well as makeup accessories.
Improving the Sunscreen Experience
Application of sunscreen products is a perennial consumer frustration, often leading to under-use of these critical protective products. In fact, just 33% of people apply sunscreen to the entirety of their exposed skin, according to research from Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology.
Lack of application is often tied to products’ greasy feel and the time required to apply non-spray products. In response, Silgan Dispensing designed its Mark VII Max Style pump “to alleviate the frustrations consumers experience when applying sun-care products.”
The actuator features two ribs to boost the grip on the pump while offering a visual and tactile cue for correct fingertip position.
The design reportedly upgrades the ease-of-use of Silgan’s existing Mark VII Max pump, which features a low force to actuate. The new model has added a larger finger landing area to accommodate a wider range of finger sizes while enabling different approach angles for the index finger, allowing the package to be held in various orientations.
The actuator features two ribs to boost the grip on the pump while offering a visual and tactile cue for correct fingertip position. The Mark VII Max Style pump has 21 orifice cups to offer a range of spray patterns and angles for optimal body coverage. The result, the company argues, is a “comfortable and smooth application experience.”
Supplier Consolidation
During the event, Heinz-Glas announced that it had acquired Saverglass’ perfume flacon business, which boosted the purchasers customer and product portfolios. Terms of the deal were not disclosed. Both companies reportedly committed to a “smooth transition” for the customers affected by the deal.
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