The bustling aisles of InterCharm 2018, held in Moscow, Russia, on October 24-27, 2018, could be likened to a quick trip around the world. Attendees encountered 1,155 exhibitors showcasing product concepts from Europe, Asia and North America, indicating that the current Russian market is a massive melting pot of beauty and personal care.
Check out our snapshots from the show floor here.
Trends on the Show Floor
The unique and quirky world of Korean beauty has not just captivated Western beauty lovers, Russian consumers want in on the action, too. Egg-inspired beauty products were especially prevalent on the show floor, including egg cleansing foams, peeling gels, soaps, shampoos and conditioners.
Sheet Masks and Facial Patches
Two other trends from South Korea, sheet masks and facial patches, dominated InterCharm. From moisturizing Hello Kitty and macaron-inspired masks to cellulose formats to masks infused with teas from around the world, these products ran the gamut from Instagram-worthy to in-depth skin science.
Facial patches on display included hydrogel eye, spot, cheek and multipatches. One patch in particular, from B-Selfie, is meant to act as a beauty filler for the lip and eye area by utilizing microneedles made of hyaluronic acid to plump up the skin.
Shimmer and Glow
The “Glow Generation” and their demand for a glowing, shimmering skin has also made its way into the Russian market. Popular product concepts included shimmering body milks, hair and body mists, moisturizing eye makeup, lip glosses and nail polishes.
Mom-to-Be and New Mom Body Care
Body care for moms-to-be and new moms—meant to firm, smooth and regenerate the skin during and after pregnancy—has been gaining popularity in Western markets. The trend is quickly being embraced in the Russian market as well.
Natural and Organic
Russian consumers are becoming increasingly aware of pollution and the deteriorating environment, and are starting to seek out products containing natural ingredients. This market segment is expected to grow in the coming years and made a significant impression on InterCharm attendees.
Anastasia Kotova of Carlin Creative Trend Bureau shared two beauty trend forecasts for Autumn/Winter 2019-2020: Shock and Newtopia.
This trend is especially appealing to “esthetic lovers,” Kotova explained. Shock encompasses multisensory cues, including texture, colors and design.
- Sweets thing: Marshmallow textures and “cream bourgeoisie” will inspire everything from the consistency of products to the minimalist packaging that consumers are embracing.
- Sugar, sugar: The granular appearance of sugar can be seen in both clothing and houseware designs. The sweet and sandy appearance will no doubt make its way into beauty and personal care industry as well.
- Candy colors: Cotton candy pinks, rich caramel hues, bright magentas and soft lilacs perfectly fit this trend and resemble “appetizing sweets” according to Kotova.
- Glazed and Amused: Keeping with the candy and sweets trend, beauty product textures will have a jelly-like almost glazed feel, including those for lip products, eye makeup, face masks and even hairstyles.
This trend incorporates eco-urban influences as well as inconspicuous femininity.
- City palette: Contrasting colors, including grey-blue, bright orange, army green and muted baby blues, suggest the meeting of Mother Nature and technology.
- Slightly citrus: Bright orange and yellow hues will be used as a pop of color on the eyes, lips, cheeks or hair.
- Graphic lines: Abrupt lines, especially when it comes to eyeliner, will give makeup looks an air of spontaneity while also showcasing individuality.
When it comes to packaging designs, keeping a brand’s target customer in mind is paramount, explained Anna Lukanina, managing partner, Depot WPF.
She encouraged brands to embrace:
- Packaging graphics that are appropriate for the target customer;
- Straight-forward product messaging;
- The unique style of target customers;
- Limited edition packaging;
- Contrasting colors and packaging shapes; and
- Instragam-friendly designs.
Varvara Kulaeva, head of perfumery, private labels, L’Etoile, shared some of the biggest trends affecting the current fragrance market.
- Gender-neutral fragrances: “There are no male or female fragrances, just like there are no male or female foods,” Kulaeva stated. In fact, she added that 70% of women want to try masculine fragrances, and fragrance brands are taking notice.
- Make it personal: Co-creation between brands and consumers is bringing customization to the next level. Some brands are creating unique fragrances for each of their customers, while other brands offer a mix of scents in a collection that consumers can pair together as they see fit.
- Green machine: From packaging to fragrance materials, consumers are opting for more eco-friendly and sustainable perfume brands.
- New textures: Consumers are looking for multifunctional products to help streamline their beauty and grooming process. Fragrances are now being offered in new textures and formats to help meet this demand, i.e. rollerball fragrances, lotions, solid perfumes and gel-based perfumes.
- When it comes to trending fragrances, Kulaeva emphasized green vegetable notes, iris, delicate floral notes, wood compositions and exotic fruits.