The Society of Cosmetic Chemists' 79th Annual Scientific Meeting (SCC79), held Dec. 16 and 17, 2025, in NYC, painted a vibrant picture of future hotspots for beauty innovation, inspiring some 800+ registered attendees. Following is an overview of what we observed; Editor's note: This is by no means comprehensive.
1. Biomimetics and Epigenetics
- Empowering the body's own repair mechanisms
- Epigenetics and small RNA-based actives to trigger pathways for longevity, health, autophagy, HA in skin, etc.
- Understanding hair biology to build cumulative repair effects
- miRNA mimics and antagomiRs to intercept or bolster "text messages" to cells
2. Efficacy Testing and Claims Support
- Advancing skin models to measure active benefits
- Single-cell transcriptomics to replicate cell communication (to measure benefits of actives)
- Vibrational spectroscopy to evaluate skin/scalp physiology
- Reconstructed pigmented epidermis to measure pigment changes
- Texture analysis
- Confocal Raman to measure hydrogen bond strength in hair (for bond repair claims)
- Triculture model with sensory neurons, melanocytes and keratinocytes (to measure neurocosmetics)
3. Dermocosmetics and Skin Wellness
- Dermatology meets AI; AI-designed peptides
- Skin disorders in diverse patients
- Secretome for skin health and longevity
- Empowering skin's native mechanisms (biomimetics)
- Microbiome
- Anti-wrinkle effects
- Neuron-skin communication
- Intercelluar communications and messaging (epigenetics)
4. Hair Health, Bonding and Bioprotection
- AI-designed peptides
- Biosilk peptides
- Measuring bonding claims (hydrogen networks)
- Hair damage repair
- Bioprotection as a new category (protecting against pollution, blocking buildup, heat, breakage; improving thickness)
- Reduced hair fall and improved density
5. Sun Care and SPF Testing, Optimization
- SPF testing - new method comparisons
- Buzz around DSM-Firmenich's progress with the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) to endorse bemotrizinol as an approved sunscreen active
- Multifunctionals in sunscreens (e.g., ingredients that are antioxidants + SPF boosters in one)
- Skinification of sunscreens (i.e., multifunctional sun protection)
- Optimization via production methods and spreading
- Efficacy of films
6. Natural and Multifunctional
- Natural SPF booster + antioxidant
- Bio-based preservative with microbiome-boosting benefits
- Dispersing and emulsifying
- New data showing skin care ingredients also improve hair/scalp
- Natural cellulose paper awarded
7. Sustainability and Biotechnology
- Algae-derived ink to replace Carbon Black, produced using biomass as feedstock and demonstrating carbon-sequestering capabilities
- Recombinant hirudin peptide expressed from algae
- Eco-friendly hair conditioning
- Sophorolipids
- LCA assessments
- Enzymatic extraction of upcycled ingredient for color + care benefits
- Recombinant collagen
- Biosynthesis of terpenoids
- Oxyresveratrol (in Chinese biotech session)
- PFAS-free peptide
Honorable Mentions
8. Hair Growth and Maintenance
- Focus on vascularization around follicles via the role of glypicans
- Reducing hair fall and thinning
- improving thickness
9. Inclusivity and Diversity
- Targeting hyperpigmentation and dark spots/brightening
- Skin conditions in different skin types
- Color matching
- Sun protection for deeper skin tones
10. Tattooed Skin Care
-Featured keynote
11. Prebiotics
-Paper awarded
