Great news for cosmetic brands and their loyal following alike: the BB creams and CC creams that have recharged the beauty-meets-skin care business are only the tip of the iceberg.
Multifunctional cosmetics that deliver skin benefits are not only here to stay, but are expected to grow significantly across several categories. For instance, the global organic personal care market is projected to grow at a CAGR of around 9.8% over the next decade to reach approximately $25.7 billion by 2025, largely due to the impact of multifunctional products.*
“We are very sensitive to offer such products to our customers because multifunctional ingredients are very powerful,” said Pauline Martin, global communications and events manager, Givaudan Active Beauty. “They allow for formulations with a high degree of added value, and overall they claim multiple benefits for the products while rationalizing the cost in use.”
Keep an eye on the following trends our experts say will impact multifunctional cosmetics in 2017 and beyond.
Anti-pollution and environmental protection are certain to continue to trend as skin care bridges over into cosmetics—especially in light of growth in the disposable income of the populations of many of the surging high-pollution markets in India and Asia. In recent years, Lancome launched its successful City Miracle CC Cream, touting it as having been tested in some of the world’s most polluted cities.
There also exist vast market opportunities in the West, which has been slower to adopt anti-pollution claims. According to a recent survey of more than 2,000 Americans conducted by Morning Consult on behalf of H2O+ Beauty, 66% of people still do not protect their skin against pollution. The research found that 62% of women would be more likely to purchase products if they protected the skin against environmental pollutants, compared to 55% of men.
“The data indicates a serious rift between general awareness of the damage that pollution can cause to your skin, and the understanding that you can shield your skin from harm with certain products,” said Joy Chen, CEO of H2O+ Beauty.
“There’s a real opportunity for the beauty industry to take more action to help protect our skin against harmful airborne toxins.”
Ingredient suppliers are responding to this opportunity with new innovations. For instance, BASF’s PatcH2O hydra-protect technology, based on the association of three film-forming biopolymers—pullulan, alginate and hyaluronic acid—and a hydrating complex of glycerin, serine, trehalose and urea.
“PatcH2O offers an efficient technical solution to meet the needs of two rapidly expanding markets of hydration and anti-pollution ingredients,” explained Manasi Chavan, Ph.D, BASF’s manager, technical service team, personal care, North America. “This unique, patent-applied technology forms a hydric barrier that significantly protects skin from cytotoxicity and oxidative stress induced, respectively, by PM2.5 and BaP. This technology offers immediate, long-term and sustained hydration benefits.”
Givaudan’s Neurophroline, which is extracted from the seeds of the wild indigo plant, is also engineered to fight pollution’s ill effects on the skin. “Neurophroline blocks cortisol production and promotes the release of relaxing neuropeptides, offering anti-aging, anti-pollution and anti-oxidant properties in the skin,” said Martin. “It has also shown a very fast recovery of skin luminosity, an improvement of skin color, a reduction in skin redness and a complete recovery from a tired look in one month.”
Super ingredient argan oil has been working its way out of the niche and into the mainstream beauty market for more than a decade, expanding from skin care (Moroccanoil Pure Argan Oil, Vita Liberata Passionflower & Argan Dry Oil Broad Spectrum SPF 50 and Josie Maran Whipped Mud Mask Collection) to hair care (Moroccanoil Treatment, Madison Reed Root Touch Up and Bumble and bumble Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil) to color cosmetics (Too Cool For School Dinoplatz Lip Balm, Bite Beauty Line & Define Lip Primer and Urban Decay Brow Beater Microfine Brow Pencil).
Ingredient are responding to these with ethical ingredient innovations. For example, BASF has been partnering with women’s cooperatives in Morocco to bring argan-based ingredients into personal care since 2001.
“Arganyl, a leaf extract high in flavonoids, has excellent antioxidant properties, along with the ability to inhibit MMP and collagenase to help preserve the skin’s extra-cellular matrix,” said Chavan. “With its high content of flavonoids, it is an excellent antioxidant ingredient that protects the skin against three types of pollutions to inhibit ROS and RCS induction, along with inhibiting IL-8 release. And, in addition to protecting against pollution, Arganyl also protects elastin and collagen from degradation.”
Lady Burd Cosmetics’ Miracle Beauty Oil uses argan oil to its full potential.
“Skin oils are not new to skin care, but they have become extremely popular—with good reason,” said Tanya Diaz, product developer at Lady Burd. “Miracle Beauty Oil contains a blend of oils such as argan oil, marula oil, black currant seed oil and more, which are super packed with fatty acids and vitamin antioxidants. It can be mixed into foundations to add a boost of radiance and life, helping make-up look more like naturally beautiful skin.”
Look on the Bright Side
As the emphasis on skin care in Asia gradually shifts from whitening to brightening, the beauty goal of healthy, radiant skin is being shared around the world, creating new opportunities for savvy suppliers.
“Ronaflair pigments provide numerous benefits, including opacity, transparency, soft focus effects, skin adhesion, color correction, texture improvement and increased mattifying for less ‘caking’ in eyeshadows and powders,” explained Phil Linz, EMD’s manager of cosmetic applications. “They also provide that illumination and radiance to formulas, which is so essential to many of today’s products.”
“For many makeup brands, innovation is driven by consumers’ appetite for more active makeup with an immediate ‘wow’ effect and additional skin care benefits.”
Brightenyl from Givaudan also aids in illuminating skin. According to Martin, “Brightenyl is a bio-boosted, skin-brightening, pore-reducing and color-correcting active, protecting and perfecting the skin’s complexion by restoring its healthy and natural tone again.”
Meanwhile, Sensient Technologies has introduced Sensibright Dual White WD, a novel concept of TiO2 pigment coated with skin-brightening active ingredients. Sebastien Massard, Sensient’s marketing manager, North America, said, “This hybrid product provides immediate skin whitening due to its pigment content, but also progressively releases illuminating active ingredients—alpha arbutin and licorice extract—onto the skin for long-term efficacy.”
When it comes to multifunctional cosmetics, it’s not just what a product does that matters—it’s how it’s accessed and what the package can do for the consumer. HCP’s Push and Pull lipstick is a versatile pack applicable for lipstick, contouring, strobing and color correcting.
“The pack is operated by pushing the lipstick at one end of the pack, which then allows access to the lipstick at the other end,” said Stephanie Rowntree, product manager, HCP. “The brand Cover FX used our Push & Pull lipstick for their innovative Click Stick, a customizable beauty tool that empowers makeup connoisseurs to conveniently customize their makeup wardrobe. This clever product offers a choice of 36 global shades of Correct, Cover or Enhance Clicks to upload into the Click Stick, transforming it into the perfect portable tool to correct, conceal, contour, highlight, strobe and illuminate the complexion.”
And, via a partnership with E-Ink, the Texen branch of PSB Industries has brought interactive smart tech into cosmetic packaging. Using near field communication, a miniature screen embedded in a makeup compact and case can connect to an enabled smartphone and provide tutorials, tips and product details on-demand to the end user—taking multifunctionality to a new level.
As Massard noted, “For many makeup brands, innovation is driven by consumers’ appetite for more active makeup with an immediate ‘wow’ effect and additional skin care benefits.”
Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of Global Cosmetic Industry and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.
Captions: Via a partnership with E-Ink, the Texen branch of PSB Industries has brought interactive smart tech into cosmetic packaging. HCP’s Push and Pull lipstick is a versatile pack applicable for lipstick, contouring, strobing and color correcting. Lady Burd Cosmetics’ Miracle Beauty Oil uses argan oil to its full potential.