in-cosmetics Unveils Latest Ingredient Innovations


Companies from around the world are preparing for in-cosmetics Paris, previewing their soon-to-be launched ingredients. Ingredient properties include anti-aging, oral care and colored pigments, among other applications. 

Cosmetics and Color

Alban Muller International’s Lipolami ER (INCI: Silybum Marianum Ethyl Ester) is a natural alternative to silicones with protection of the skin barrier, stability and fineness of emulsions and a feeling of softness.

DSM Personal Care’s VALVANCE Touch 250 (INCI: not available) targets color cosmetic applications such as lipstick, foundation and blush.

LESSONIA’s Fucoreverse (INCI: not available) is a marine active cosmetic ingredient, based on marine glycobiology.

Merck KGaA’s Timiron Halo White (INCI: not available) is an effect pigment for personal care applications, giving lotions, foundations, creams and makeup products a natural shimmer.

Sun Chemical’s SunCROMA is a portfolio of bright and bold pigments.

The company also launched SunSHINE (INCI: designation Synthetic Flourphlogopite), a line of pearlescent pigments for skin and hair care formulations.

Hair Care

AkzoNobel’s AMPHOMER EDGE polymer (INCI Name:  Octylacrylamide/Acrylates/Butylaminoethyl Methacrylate Copolymer) provides the stiffness and high humidity resistance of the current AMPHOMER polymer, but also offers improved long-lasting hold, durability and style retention.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Advantage 2VC-P polymer (INCI: not available) is an anionic film forming technology, which functions as a hair fixative.

DSM Personal Care’s new range of TILMAR polymers will help change hair care routines. The range consists of: Polyquaternium-7 (INCI: not available), Polyquaternium-6 (INCI: not available) and Polyquaternium-22 (INCI: not available).

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Defenscalp (INCI: Water (and) Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract) helps decrease sebum production on scalp, reduces the appearance of dandruff flakes and soothes scalp irritation.


Alban Muller International’s BOREALINE consists of a range of actives, 100 percent vegetal. BOREALINE Expert (INCI: not available) is an anti-aging active from the boreal forest; BOREALINE Hydra (INCI: not available) is a hydration cocktail booster; and BOREALINE Protect (INCI: not available) is the boreal source of resveratrol.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ Optiphen DLP preservative (INCI: not available) provides antifungal boosting properties at lower use levels and full protection at high use levels.

INOLEX’s SustOleo (INCI: not available) is a complete system of palm free ingredients.

INOLEX and ieS Labo are announcing the launch of PhytoTrace, a line of traceable, sustainable extracts. The line includes: PhytoTrace Carrot (INCI: not available), PhytoTrace Fig (INCI: not available), PhytoTrace Lemon Verbena (INCI: not available), PhytoTrace Olive (INCI: not available), PhytoTrace Rice (INCI: not available) and PhytoTrace Saffron (INCI: not available).

Personal Care

Active Concepts’ Leucidal Liquid Complete (INCI: Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract) is a one-step solution for broad spectrum antimicrobial protection, providing moisturization and conditioning properties, while preventing the growth of bacteria.

The company will also introduce Leucidal SF Complete (INCI: Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract), which is a salicylate-free approach to broad spectrum antimicrobial protection.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ PhytoRNx Baobab extract (INCI: not available) is based on the cellular nucleic acids of the baobab tree, which is engineered to increase the yield of small RNAs, the small ribonucleic acids that regulate a multitude of cellular processes in plants.

Bluestar Silicones is presenting the MIRASIL range for the beauty and personal care markets. MIRASIL BALANCE (INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone) is an effective emulsifier for water, in oil and water silicone emulsions; MIRASIL CAPRYLYL TSO (INCI: Caprylyl Methicone) is an emollient with spreading power, specifically for non-polar liquids, leaving a non-tacky skin feel; MIRASIL CETYL DM (INCI: Cetyl Dimethicone) is a liquid silicone wax compatible with cosmetic ingredients and leaving a nice durable velvet touch on the skin; and MIRASIL PEG 12 DM (INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone) is a versatile silicone surfactant, which offers multiple benefits such as foam stabilization, light conditioning effect and silky feel.

Dr. Straetmans’ Verstatil MPC (INCI: not available) represents an anticipatory solution to work with low levels of phenoxyethanol, while achieving a safe, reliable and economic preservation.

The company is also launching Verstatil synacid (INCI: not available), a system not only efficient against standard germs, but also exhibiting proven efficacy against other known problematic microorganisms and resistant house-germs.

DuPont Tate & Lyle’s Zemea Propanediol (INCI: not available) can be used as a solvent, humectant or enzyme stabilizer in cosmetics and personal care and laundry and cleaning products.

Merck KGaA’s RonaCare Essentials product line consists of 13 new products in its portfolio with products for hair, skin and dental care, as well as for sun protection.

Omya’s Omyadent (INCI: Hydroxyapatite (and) Calcium Carbonate) is a multifunctional ingredient for oral care applications.

Vertellus’ Freshstat (INCI: Cetylpyridinium Chloride) is a deodorizing agent and preservative, based on CPC for oral health.

Skin Care

AkzoNobel’s ElfaMoist AC humectants (proposed INCI Name: N-Acetyl DGA) is an effective active, which penetrates inside the skin, delivers and increases hydration and keeps skin moisturized for 30 hours.

Ashland Specialty Ingredients’ SurfaThix N polymer (INCI: Acrylates Copolymer (and) Water) is a surfactant-functional technology, which performs as an all-in-one solution for consumer cleansing products such as body, hand and facial cleansers.

Bayer HealthCare Division Serdex is launching Madecassoside (INCI: Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) for patients with atopy-prone, sensitive or mature skin to help with chronic inflammation and to care for dry skin.

Croda Personal Care’s Prolevis (INCI: Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein) helps provide instant skin smoothing of visible surface wrinkles and imperfections.

Crodarom’s Elfe Flower (INCI: not available) has beneficial properties consisting of anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, anti-aging, anti-fatigue and moisturizing.

DSM Personal Care’s SYN-STAR (INCI: not available) is an innovation based on existing patented peptide technology, showing a global youthful and mattifying effect in a study on Caucasian, Asian, and African skin.

The company will also launch SYN-UP (INCI: not available) boosts skin’s resilience and gives skin the power to fight dryness.

Gattefossé’s Gatuline Renew (INCI: not available) relaunches the cell renewal mechanism and acts specifically on the problem of skin texture, smoothing, hydrating and softening the skin, leaving a visibly younger appearance.

Givaudan’s Neurophroline (INCI: not available) is a bioactive, fighting skin stress by breaking down the cortisol production.

The company also launched Tightenyl (INCI: not available), a skin bio-lifter, which is a cosmetic alternative to facelift surgery, helping skin achieve a youthful appearance.

Greenaltech’s ALGAKTIV Zen (INCI: not available) is a microalgae blend helping restore the homeostasis of the skin by protecting it from inner stress signals and restoring skin’s natural circadian rhythm.

IBR Ltd.’s IBR-Pristinizer (INCI: Water (and) AsteriscusGraveolens Flower/Fruit/Leaf/Stem Extract) shields against urban pollution for clear skin.

Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ Miniporyl (INCI: Isopentyldiol (and) Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract) reduces the appearance of pores, decreases sebum production and is detoxifying.

This company will also launch Lecigel (INCI: Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Lecithin) is a gelling agent with emulsifying properties, lowering skin temperature.

Additionally, the company is introducing Tazman Pepper (INCI: Glycerin (and) Water (and) Alcohol Denat. (and) Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit Extract), which reduces irritation, provides immediate soothing and has an anti-inflammatory activity.

Naolys’ OvernightEnhance [MJ+C] (INCI: not available) is an active plant shell, made with Four O’Clock cells and caffeine inside to get a better radiance and boost in night time skin activity.

Naturex’s Cherry Blossom Eutectys (INCI: not available) fights photo-aging and has anti-inflammatory benefits, in addition to antioxidants, firming and regenerating to help improve the skin barrier function.

Rahn’s LIFTONIN-XPERT (INCI: not available) has natural actives, botanicals, essential oils and plant extracts to boost collagen and support anti-aging.

Sun Care

DSM Personal Care’s AMPHISOL K (INCI: not available) is an oil-in-water emulsifier, delivering sunscreen stability.

Givaudan’s Vegetan Gold (INCI: not available) is an oil soluble self-tanning molecule.

Greentech’s SOLIBERINE (INCI: not available) absorbs UVA and UVB radiations, harmful to skin cells, while stimulating cellular detoxification mechanisms.

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