Multitasking: it’s become the norm for all of us. Moreover, it’s something we’ve grown to expect as consumers, especially in personal care.
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Multitasking: it’s become the norm for all of us. Moreover, it’s something we’ve grown to expect as consumers, especially in personal care.
As a result, we’ve seen an increase in skin care solutions that can deliver multiple benefits in one product—such as a hydrating, collagen-boosting reparative creams or SPF-infused daily serums—as well as multipurpose cosmetics, including BB creams that incorporate both primer and foundation while providing soothing benefits to the skin.
“Lightform Extended Hydration Foundation is a true superstar,” says Danielle Jarrell, vice president of product development at Morphe.Morphe
Perhaps it’s no surprise that, in February 2024 during a CEW event, Spatea reported the top makeup claims turning up in searches included glow, dewy, setting and weightless—primarily concepts associated with skin care.
But perhaps not for long.
“We like to say Kosas is 100% makeup, 100% skin care,” explains Sheena Zadeh, founder of beauty brand Kosas. “We believe in a new face of makeup for everyday life. Women are busy and don’t have time to be precious and perfect with their makeup. They want foolproof, effortless products that they can apply quickly or on the go.”
Read on to see how beauty innovators are delivering the best of both worlds.
Hydration Sensations
Skin care solutions that hydrate are easy to find; skin care solutions that hydrate while providing long-lasting, weightless makeup coverage are much rarer.
Morphe delivers all of this and more in its Lightform Extended Hydration Foundation.
“In January 2024, Revolution Beauty launched Skin Silk Serum Foundation, our first-ever serum foundation, as a response to consumers’ desire for a lightweight complexion product with skin care benefits,” says Erin Cast, president of Revolution Beauty North America.Revolution Beauty
Revolution Beauty, celebrated for the past decade for its high-quality, cruelty-free cosmetics, recently upped its skin care factor with the introduction of the Skin Silk Serum Foundation to its portfolio.
“In January 2024, Revolution Beauty launched Skin Silk Serum Foundation, our first-ever serum foundation, as a response to consumers’ desire for a lightweight complexion product with skin care benefits,” says Erin Cast, president of Revolution Beauty North America.
She adds, “Powered by skin care and enriched with hyaluronic acid and a peptide complex, Skin Silk Serum Foundation provides a your-skin-but-better feel, working to plump and hydrate your skin with every use. The lightweight and breathable formula blurs imperfections while letting skin shine for coverage without compromising the complexion.”
Taking the BB cream trend to the next level is Kosas, which recently launched BB Burst, a clean, tinted gel cream designed for light coverage and a blurring effect, all while moisturizing the skin.Kosas
“Its refreshing, cooling formula releases a burst of serious skin care with a triple hydration effect that results in more balanced skin and supports the skin barrier for moisture retention,” says Zadeh. “We wanted to modernize the BB cream category by creating this buildable coverage product that also hydrates and plumps your skin.”
Texture-forward & Emotional Makeup Design
As Cast’s comment about a “your-skin-but-better feel” for Revolution Beauty’s Skin Silk Serum Foundation shows, texture and skin-feel is critical
In April, Spate reported that among the top-growing Korean face makeup products were concealer palettes and water-based foundations.
The firm noted, “Many concealer palettes also include color-corrector shades to neutralize redness, cover dark circles and even out pigmentation.”
Texture is central to the rise in palettes, with significant searches focused on cream concealer palettes.
In a similar vein, water-based foundations have experienced nearly 130% year-over-year search growth in the United States, per Spate. This places a premium on the omission of silicones or certain no-no oils.
It also signals a desire for a “lighter texture and a more natural appearance,” per the firm.
This has led to a rise in searches for moisture foundations and moist foundation recommendations.
Gotha’s B-lush-ious blush formulas feature a texture like chocolate that “melted” in contact with a user’s finger, offering high payoff and buildable wear for more extreme looks.Gotha
The collection included the Matte-finish Watery Primer featuring Lubrizol’s Kelo-Care diutan gum. The rheology modifier delivers high stability, per the supplier, and is produced by fermentation. Compatible with high levels of alcohol and polyols, Kelo-Care diutan gum is readily biodegradable.
Lubrizol also crafted the Color-blazing Lip Jelly and Silky and Creamy Eyeshadow Stick formulas using the Oilkemia Alpha polymer, which allows for surprising textures. The oil-soluble polymer has pronounced thickening efficiency, clarity, suspension and stability, as well as a non-tacky feel.
Texture and skin feel also have emotional dimensions. This was a theme explored by color cosmetics manufacturing specialist Gotha during Cosmoprof Bologna 2024. During the show, the company launched makeup concepts dubbed “Emotional Fulfillment,” which featured unique textures with an emotional punch.
Gotha’s Bubble Gum Bronzer mixed the lightweight elements of a powder with the melting effect of a cream, all housed in a nostalgic Play Doh-like texture that highlights sensorial factors. The bouncy bronzer can be applied with a finger, blender or brush, and offers a buildable, velvety, sheer, non-drying finish.
Gotha's Executive Lipstick features a gummy texture with high payoff and no drying sensation. Its vibrant and vivid color reportedly lasts for hours and wears like a second skin.Gotha
Gotha’s B-lush-ious blush formulas, meanwhile, featured a texture like chocolate that “melted” in contact with a user’s finger, offering high payoff and buildable wear for more extreme looks.
The result is a luminous, dewy finish and optical plumped effect.
Finally, the water-based Antarctica eyeshadow stick featured pearlescent metallic color with a cooling sensoriality.
Gotha's water-based Antarctica eyeshadow stick featured pearlescent metallic color with a cooling sensoriality.Gotha
The eyeshadow can be paired with other eyeshadows to add a high-shine layer. The formulation represents an evolution of Gotha's Water Drop Eye Stick, which won the Formulation Award at the 2024 MakeUp in Los Angeles event.
That formula represented a jelly stick that transformed into “an ultra-sparkling layer of color and dazzling pearls,” per the company.
Brightening, Beautifying & Defending the Skin
Makeup that can provide a glowing complexion is a top priority for the discerning cosmetics consumer, as Spate data has shown. It often takes skin-care-worthy ingredients to achieve the desired effects.
“I want our products to give immediate results—be it concealing, highlighting, contouring or setting, while also providing longer-term benefits for the skin long after the makeup comes off,” explains Tisha Thompson, makeup artist and founder of LYS Beauty.LYS Beauty
She adds, “To do so effectively, each of our formulas is fortified with nourishing, plant-based ingredients with proven ability to help visibly enhance the appearance of skin. Lately, our customers have been thoroughly enjoying formulas with moisturizing ingredients like hyaluronic acid, rosehip oil, green tea extract and watermelon seed extract. Our viral No Limits Cream Bronzer Sticks have these key ingredients and are often touted for their ability to leave behind a natural radiance on the skin.”
This SKU, created with ingredients by supplier Azelis, garnered nearly 3 billion views on TikTok in 2023, per the brand, and was embraced by the beauty community for not only providing stellar results, but also for offering clean ingredients, deep shade ranges and an accessible price point.
Providing sun protection is also high on today’s consumer priority list in skin care; products that can deliver cosmetic functionality to boot are hitting the skin care-sun care-makeup trifecta.
Supergoop!'s Protec(tint) Daily Skin Tint is a lightweight, sun-protecting skin tint that gives a smooth natural finish.Supergoop!
“We collaborated with Supergoop! on their new SPF-infused Protec(tint) Daily Skin Tint, packed in a 35 ml custom tottle with SimpliSqueeze valve technology for precise dispensing and clean user experience,” explains Jessica Tarangioli, president of marketing and turnkey, FusionPKG. “Whether it’s protecting delicate natural formulas or highly aggressive ingredients, our airless packaging stands out for its ability to protect products from air exposure, safeguarding formula integrity and potency.”
Revolution Beauty has also looked into sun-inspired concepts for upcoming launches. Cast notes, “We are excited to launch one of our most highly anticipated drops to date—our supercharged, skin-loving Bright Light Bronzing Drops, which give sun-kissed skin in seconds!”
Looking ahead, keep an eye out for cosmetics featuring Givaudan Active Beauty’s new Neuroglow active ingredient. According to the company, Neuroglow mimics the positive effects of the sun—including stimulating melanin production and promoting the release of beta-endorphin, vitamin D and oxytocin—without any of the damaging effects of sun exposure.
A Givaudan Active Beauty CMI study found that 80% of U.S. Gen Z consumers are looking for cosmetics that would positively influence their mood; watch for more cosmetic solutions that can deliver more than an aesthetic boost in the future.
Professional Treatment-mimicking Makeup
Beyond hydrating and anti-/pro-aging concepts, ingredient suppliers are developing technologies that can potentially empower color cosmetics with materials that mimic popular professional treatments.
Provital’s Orchistem stem cell active derived from a Japanese orchid, has a lifting effect on the upper eyelid, mimicking popular procedures that target the area.askaflight at Adobe Stock
This includes the company’s Linefill, which acts as an injectable alternative for filling wrinkles from the inside out for a plumped and enhanced volume effect. The oil-soluble ingredient reportedly creates “24.8% more lip volume than the placebo it was tested against,” per Esposito.
Elsewhere, Provital’s Orchistem stem cell active derived from Calanthe discolor, a Japanese orchid, has a lifting effect on the upper eyelid, mimicking popular procedures that target the area.
“Why not enhance, for example, [develop] an eyeshadow or lid primer with Orchistem and address a concern so many have?” says Esposito. “With clinical studies showing upper eyelid lifting improvements of 19% and 28% in 2 weeks and 1 month, respectively, now you have an evolved formulation that gives the rejuvenated appearance of an open eye! “
Provital’s Sculpup, meanwhile, a derivative of organic blackberry, increases lipid accumulation in adipocytes and collagen where applied for a boost in firmness, volume and lift—a clear alternative for professional fillers.
Its benefits make it a candidate for applications such as highlighters and blushes to give the cheeks a more youthful appearance.
As these concepts show, there is immense white space available for bringing new multifunctional innovation to color cosmetics.
Color Still Counts
Of course, pigments, dyes and effects are still central to color cosmetics, no matter how many skin-friendly claims are added.
Spectra Colors, a U.S.,-based producer of small quantity batch-certified colorants for use in drop-in formulations, offers a number of materials for the beauty industry.
The company’s FD&C and D&C dye products are available as powders, with specific colors available in liquid and granular form. In addition, the company has developed concept formulas for everything from eyeshadows to liquid eyeliners to eyeshadows to lipsticks.
Elsewhere, Eckart’s new Mirage Glamour Space Silver features a borosilicate substrate and silver-metallic brilliance. This allows for application in water-based applications and products designed for the lip area. The interference silver glass flakes are available as a powder.
Packaging: Supporting Hybrid Product Functionality
HCP's Harmony Luxe Lipstick & Trimline comprises a duo of monomaterial aluminum lipsticks that are ready-to-recycle and can support decoration techniques including anodization, spray finishes, and textile “forever finishes” such as double-anodization, pressing, rolling, debossing, embossing and lasering.HCP
“Sticks are a very popular form of packages for products combining skin care and cosmetic attributes,’ says Daniel Wolfe, SVP, business development, Cosmopak. “Cosmopak has developed and produced a wide range of propel/repel sticks, including a range of airtight sticks, which is key for product integrity, particularly those with water content. In particular, Cosmopak’s airtight technology for bottom dial sticks allows for a highly functional and effective package for brands and their consumers.”
Product defense is also on Tarangioli’s mind. She notes, “[We’re excited to introduce Dream Glass Atmospheric, our newest packaging innovation combining premium glass with high-performance atmospheric dispensing featuring a two-piece, snap-on design and secure locking function—plus, new solutions inspired by our space-saving Max Out collection designed for inclusive, multi-shade launches!”
Lips are a top-performer in the hybrid color cosmetic space. As previously reported by Global Cosmetic Industry magazineb, in 2023 top color cosmetic performers in the U.S. market included lip serums, tinted lip oils and “other products designed to enhance their lip features.”
HCP's Twist Tottle for liquid makeup and skin care can be made from PCR. The design facilitates one-handed dispensing, per the company.HCP
“There are several sustainable avenues suited to the lipstick category,” says Stephanie Rowntree, international product manager, HCP Packaging, “[including] refill formats, mono-material constructions in PP, PET, or aluminum and PCR materials to reduce the amount of virgin plastic used in existing packs.”
This includes the Harmony Luxe Lipstick & Trimline, a duo of monomaterial aluminum lipsticks that are ready-to-recycle and can support decoration techniques including anodization, spray finishes, and textile “forever finishes” such as double-anodization, pressing, rolling, debossing, embossing and lasering.
HCP's monomaterial Harmony PP Refill Lipstick features a cap, base and mechanism all made with PP to optimize recyclability, with a refillable mechanism for extra sustainable credentials. The cap and base are suitable for PCR materials, per the company.
ICONS|ICS is also launching an array of PCR and monomaterial PET, PP and aluminum lip packaging options. It also delivers designs that pair aesthetics with functionality. For instance, ICONS|ICS’ new triangular lipstick is designed for a precise application with a slanted aluminum shell and slim 7 mmD cup.
HCP's 15 ml Color Capsule tottle features an elongated, domed profile and squeezable design with a slender nozzle ideal for skin care and complexion products.HCP
Elsewhere, HCP's Twist Tottle for liquid makeup and skin care can be made from PCR. The design facilitates one-handed dispensing, per the company.
Meanwhile, refillable concepts continue to drive a wide array of innovation.
“With users consistently reapplying everyday essential lip products throughout the day, staple nude shades and balms are ideally suited to refillable packaging formats,” says Rowntree. “A rechargeable format offers consumers a convenient and sustainable solution for maintaining their favorite lip products whilst minimizing waste.”
For instance, she says, “HCP’s stock Harmony PP airtight lipstick and slimstick are ideal packaging for balm products which need to be frequently replenished—cost effective, ready-to-recycle and refillable.”
Rowntree adds, “The rising appeal for refillable packaging is particularly evident in the luxury sphere, with brands creating ornate and elaborate lipstick cases that transform their product into a treasured keepsake. Decorated with an array of tactile 'forever finishes,' HCP’s Industrial Luxe lipstick collection offers brands a selection of luxurious aluminum packs that seamlessly combine style and sustainability.”
Refillable concepts also open the door to greater brand and product loyalty.
“HCP’s Devotion Refill Lipstick is a great example of a premium stock pack that both encourages brand loyalty with its unique and patented click-to-use refill mechanism and the option of a premium aluminum outer shell,” Rowntree explains. “The twist-up aspect of the refill mechanism is activated once assembled with the base, ensuring the consumer needs the full pack assembly for use.”
Rowntree concludes, “Lip-gloss products, however, present more of a challenge for truly effective refill packaging due to aspects such as applicator hygiene, excess packaging and a workable retail model for purchase of the refill product.”
Elsewhere, turnkey specialist Tokiwa Cosmetics recently developed an array of refillable packaging solutions for eyes, brows, lips and liner applications. The company’s turnkey offerings “prioritize natural and sustainable ingredients without compromising performance,” per the company.
Its environmental and social responsibility practices are encompassed in its Clean Program, which sets sustainability standards for production. This includes sourcing raw materials and the use of post-consumer plastics, refillable packaging, and materials with RSPO and FSC certifications.
To support up and coming brands and those seeking to maximize speed to market, HCT has introduced a new Speed Line program that offers recyclable packaging with fast lead times and low MOQs (2,500 – 25,000 pieces), thereby resolving several common sourcing challenges faced by many emerging brands.HCT
The stock is production-ready at HCT’s facility to accommodate orders in 2-3 weeks, including custom decoration, which supports quick launch schedules.
The sustainable packaging components are 100% monomaterial PET, which are designed for recycling.
To preserve components’ recyclability, the Speed Line program only allows decoration processes like silkscreen, hot stamping, inkjet printing and HCT’s Inboss Technology.
How it works:
- Brands inquire for stock/component availability
- Brands them place their artwork on the die lines
- Approval samples are shipped within about 1 week, presuming rapid brand approval
- Orders are readied for shipping typically within three weeks of sample approval/sign off; timing would be impacted by any delay in the approval process
Lisa Doyle was formerly the associate editor of GCI and is a freelance writer in the Chicago area. Her work has also appeared in Skin Inc., Salon Today, Modern Salon, Master Barber and Writer’s Digest.
FOOTNOTE
bwww.gcimagazine.com/brands-products/color-cosmetics/article/22890349/the-lip-boom-beauty-x-care
