9 Top Trends + 30 Beauty Insights from in-cosmetics Global 2024

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More than 1,030 exhibitors packed two halls for three days at in-cosmetics Global, held April 16-18, 2024, in Paris. A rumored 13,000 (unconfirmed) attendees wound between them to uncover nearly 200 new launches as well as recent innovations, new data and more. Here, we've captured some of the top trends we spotted — but this is merely a sampling.

See archived: 15+ Trends in Cosmetics Innovation at in-cosmetics Global 2023

1. Films

- concentrated actives delivery via films

- films for immediate tightening effects and longer delivery, tensoactives

 - glucomannan, pea starch, polysaccharides and other film substrates

- enhanced bioavailability

- longer lasting (color), transfer resistant

2. Skin Comfort

- mildness

- balancing cleansing with gentleness

- low irritation, redness, itch

- sensory benefits

- sensitive skin

- immunity

- the skin barrier as the new wrinkle (new industry focus)

- thickening, gums, rheology modifiers

- "subsequent" sensory experience (i.e., ingredient for a given sensory experience that also affects the subsequent ingredient/product experience)

- terms like cushion, feel, caress, "supreme comfort," soothing, texture, cushiony, velvety

3. Sustainability

- biodegradable, readily biodegradable, inherently biodegradable

- lifecycle analysis

- carbon footprint

- biotech-derived, ferments, yeast

- authenticity, DNA verification, DNA Consortium, traceability

- RSPO, EWG-verified

- "closer" to sustainable, taking steps to be more sustainable - hybrid

- conservation agriculture, biodiversity

4. Microbiome

- microbiome friendly, mild to the microbiome

- post/prebiotic

- microbiome as a "factory" to produce actives with functionality for skin

5. Sunscreen Innovation

- cooling effects (for gen alpha; responding to global warming concerns - oral care tech applied to sunscreen)

- good skin feel, less oil

- longer lasting

- higher protection

- scent in sunscreens

- will see a "revolution" in sunscreens in the market in 2 yrs

6. Hair and Scalp Restoration

- anti-stress anti-hair loss

- anti-graying through anti-stress

- scalp health and moisture

- skinification of hair (HA, ceramides)

- "rugosity" of hair, less porosity

- curl definition

- shine

7. 'Future Proof'

- anti-aging

- anti-imperfections

- collagen, peptides, recombinant collagen

- longevity

- radiance

- skin brightening (from an "illumination" standpoint)

- HA

- inhibiting "garb"aging

- retinol alternative, anti-spot

- senescence, oxidative stress

- autophagy

8. Beauty Innovation

- vitamin preservative/niacinamide skin benefit ingredient with product preservation properties

- microalgae

- plant exosomes/"exosomic peptides"

- "fit" skin - releasing entities in skin that mimic effects of exercise, sagging reduction

- formula series focus on 7 "temptations" (pride - bold jelly highlighter, sloth - minimalism, greed - waterless, lust - sensory/caress cream, wrath - neurocosmetics and relieving stress, gluttony - nutricosmetic, envy - playful beauty/transformative) 

- hydrobiome-derived microbe for skin benefits (i.e., from natural thermal springs)

- more biotech, biocatalysis, biotransformation

9. Additional Insights/'Honorable Mentions'

- anti-imperfect (acne)

- pores

- oil soluble actives in demand

- generational beauty (silent generation, Gen X, Gen Y, millennial, Gen alpha)

- microcirculation focus for under-eye bags and dark circles (upcycled from waste stream),  extravasation, hemoglobin leakage and oxidation

- minimalism, focus on short prototype formulas

- neurocosmetic

- immersive experiences, holistic well-being/multiple targets

- skin care companies moving into hair

- China compliant

- sebum and C. acnes

- naturalness, bio-based content

- anti-pollution

- performance and efficacy

- delivery

- skinification of makeup, lip oil

- squalane, hemisqualane

- prototype formulas

- baby care

- pet care

- biomimetic

- FICI index to assess synergy

- powder or nonaqueous forms

- sodium benzoate

- combining companies and departments to accelerate products

- inclusion in science, clinicals

- solid beauty (bars, balms, sticks)

- A.I. applications

- multifunctional

- "earn trust with science"

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