Omolewa Cosmetics’ “Filter in a Jar” HD Queen Finishing Powders are designed to “instantly blur out enlarged pores, fine lines, wrinkles and skin imperfections” and offer long wear. The silky, finely milled powder achieves its effects by blending easily while allowing the skin to breath. Furthermore, the powders are available in a wide shade range—each with an African-inspired name—for maximum inclusiveness. Key ingredients include corn and rice starch, as well as talc and zinc stearate.
The launch points to an ongoing consumer desire to smooth out imperfections for a photo-ready appearance. While such effects have been the specialty of the makeup sector, including Danessa Myricks Beauty’s Blurring Balm Powder, featuring Upsalite (porous magnesium carbonate), a range of ingredients allow skin care and makeup-skin care hybrids to deliver soft effects.
For example, formulators can combine Grant Industries’ Gransense elastomer with Granpowder BBP-700 for an improved sensory experience and blurring effect. Granpowder BBP-700 is a bio-based powder that comprises a fused fermentation and amino acid derivative composite. It is GMO-free, COSMOS-approved and has proven biodegradability via ISO standards. Granpowder BBP-700 provides sensory improvement to formulations with effective low use levels of 1-5%. For sun care, it can remove the greasy feel from organic UV filters and offers soft-focus properties in anti-aging products.
Nouryon’s Amaze Nordic Barley (INCI: Hordeum vulgare (barley) powder) starch imparts light scattering effects that correct imperfections such as freckles and dark spots. The fine particle size and morphology makes this transition between covered and non-covered skin almost invisible, instantly blurring the appearance of wrinkles by softening edges through light diffusion.
Sandream Specialties’ line of Soft Focus Powders and Pearls comprises six mica-based, multilayered interference pearl (SD Soft) powders and pigments, which have been alternately coated with silica and titanium dioxide. The line comprises SD Soft Cover Powder (INCI: mica (and) magnesium oxide), SD Soft White, SD Soft Gold, SD Soft Red, SD Soft Violet, SD Soft Blue and SD Soft Green (INCIs: mica (and) titanium dioxide (and) silicon dioxide (and) tin oxide). According to Sandream, these materials possess opposing refractive indices that enhance the delivery of light diffusion and transparency. Luminescence and blurring effects are achieved while also offering color correction in the shades available. Applications for SD Soft Focus Powders and Pearls include functional powders, creams and liquid makeup.
Taking a different approach to blurring effects is Silab's Myoline, an anti-stress mineral concentrate derived from locally and sustainably sourced watercress. The technology offers a simultaneous “Botox” effect and boost to well-being, per the supplier.
Designed to address skin impacted by psychological stress, Myoline tackles the impacts of tensed facial muscles and the secretion of stress mediators in the skin, both of which result in the premature appearance of expression wrinkles and a dull complexion.
Per in vitro testing, Myoline acts on the neuromuscular junction to impart a myorelaxing, or skeletal-muscle-relaxing, action. After five days of treatment with Myoline, the technology reportedly smooths the appearance of expression lines in young skin, while “blurring” the appearance of wrinkles in mature skin.
Myoline simultaneously stimulates the oxytocin and endocannabinoid pathways of the skin to improve skin homeostasis. In fact, a volunteer study found that participants' perception of stress was reduced, while perception of skin health improved.
Furthermore, Myoline reportedly helps restore the skin barrier function to boost hydration, and radiance for an enhanced complexion.
Eckart’s has developed a sustainable multipurpose natural ingredient, Ecofil B110 (INCI: Hydroxybutyric Acid/Hydroxypentanoic Acid Copolymer)—a micronized, biodegradable polymer filler.
Ecofil B110 is based on naturally fermented, non-genetically modified corn. It can be used as a filler and matting agent to replace microplastics in cosmetics and personal care formulas.
Furthermore, the ingredient can hide optical imperfections such as small wrinkles via a soft focus effect, or to fine-tune subtle properties of formulations such as application behavior or skin feel. With its white color, Ecofil B110 enables “clean” formulations without additional brighteners. Its transmission and opacity properties also give skin a healthy, natural appearance.
IR-blocking Soft Focus
Miyoshi America’s MiyoHaze White (INCI: magnesium potassium titanate) is a white, high-coverage composite powder with a light reflection pattern similar to that of titanium dioxide.
MiyoHaze White displays both wet and dry color fidelity and imparts a soft-focus effect in end formulations. The active, which has an IR-blocking effect, can also be surface treated to provide additional benefits such as strong hydrophobicity, high coverage and enhanced feel.
According to the company, it can be difficult to formulate a high-opacity, pure white powder that remains true to the color in both wet and dry conditions—a key point to developing liquid foundations. To address this, Miyoshi's MiyoHaze White was created for use in a range of cosmetic products.