Sustainable packaging for beauty is having an impact. NielsenIQ’s "2023 Sustainable Beautya" report finds that compostable and plastic-free products are driving dollar growth, while searches for refillable packaging have spiked.
Notably, the firm reported that “62% of consumers find sustainability more pivotal today than two years ago,” with 61% believing sustainability should benefit the planet, while 57% and 54%, respectively, believe it should preserve natural resources and reduce pollution.
Overall, the report notes, beauty has experienced a 64% increase in searches for refillable options, impacting sectors such as color cosmetics, deodorants and skin care.
While consumer interest in sustainable packaging is on the rise, scrutiny of claims are on the rise. In late 2023, the U.K. government’s Competition and Markets Authority targeted Unilever for what it characterized as potentially mischaracterized claims. The authority notedb, “certain green claims—particularly in relation to recyclability—may be unclear, as they fail to specify whether they relate to all or part of a product, or packaging.”
While Unilever has pushed back on the authority’s assertions, it’s clear that brands will need to keep a close eye on ingredient and packaging claims.
Key Sustainable Packaging Claims
Suppliers and brands are approaching sustainable packaging from a number of angles, from materials to design parameters. Here, we round up a number of recent introductions highlighting he variable approaches.
ICONS|ICS has developed monomaterial cosmetic compacts comprising Eastman Cristal One Renew, an RIC1 resin with 100% certified recycled content, as verified via an ISCC-certified mass balance approach.
The design eliminates the use of metal hinges and pins seen in conventional designs, thereby boosting the compacts’ recyclability.
The format is also refillable, allowing for easy replenishment, per the companies.
Refillable Monomaterial Lipstick
Quadpack’s Iconic Woodacity 2.0 refillable lipstick format is now available with a new patented closure system, called Solo Snap, and wrapped in a custom monomaterial wooden casing.
It also features Aptar Beauty’s Iconic lipstick mechanism, which is POM-free, glue-free and lubricant-free. The mechanism reportedly offers a smooth actuation of the bullet. Used mechanisms can be replaced by pulling them out and snapping in the new one.
The wood casing is available in 100% European-sourced ash or maple wood from sustainably managed forests. PEFC and FSC certifications are available on demand.
The monomaterial wood (ash, maple, etc.) can be customized with a wide array of designs and decoration techniques, per Quadpack.
The Solo Snap system offers a click closure due to an interior structure that functions without inserts or plastic. Quadpack explains, “Consumers simply pull the cap off and push it back on until it clicks.”
The updated Iconic Woodacity 2.0 reportedly works well with standard filling lines.
The Aptar Beauty mechanisms are produced in its Chavanod facility in France, while the monomaterial wood casing is produced at Quadpack Wood in Catalonia, Spain.
Refillable Glass Jars
Baralan has launched its new series of Inner Cups compatible with the company’s glass Maria Jars to create a refillable packaging option for skin care.
The Inner Cups offer filling capacities of 30 ml and 50 ml, and can be combined, respectively, with Maria Jar 50 ml and 75 ml.
Inserts can be produced with alternative materials, including PCR content, and in different colors.
Baralan can also work on specific projects to develop ad hoc Inner Cup solutions for other types of jars.
SGD Pharma’s new pharma-grade Nova lightweight glass bottle packaging features a reduced carbon footprint compared to full-weight counterparts.
The new bottle design adapts the company's narrow neck press and blow capabilities, previously displayed in its Clareo glass vial designs.
As applied to the Nova design, the process allows for bottle weight reduction and optimized glass distribution for enhanced mechanical resistance to withstand transport and distribution stresses.
Meanwhile, the reduced packaging weight minimizes associated greenhouse gas emissions, per SGD Pharma. A new 200 ml Nova bottle’s lower raw material consumption reportedly reduces CO2 emissions by approximately 20% compared with the standard Dorado bottles.
Furthermore, while conventional cosmetic bottles produced by blow and blow processes feature weight-volume ratios of 1.0/3.0, the new 200 ml Nova bottle, with a brimful volume of 215 ml and weight of 140 g, reportedly boasts a weight-volume ratio 0.65 without losing the durability or safety of the Dorado model.
Rissmann has debuted its Flip-Lid-Box, which is made of FSC paper and cardboard and omits a magnet, boosting recyclability.
The lid is connected to the base and releases the front panel of the box, revealing the product, also highlighted by the decorated interior setup, including a removable wedge.
The contrasting patterns on the cover are obtained by a laser engraving process. The inner decoration is printed without mineral oil, instead using a water-based varnish.
The Flip-Lid-Box can be produced in both Europe and Asia.
A New Bioresin for Packaging
California- based Verde Bioresins, Inc. is the bioplastics company behind PolyEarthylene, a new biodegradable, industrial compostable, curbside recyclable and PCR-certified bioresin that can be applied to the same manufacturing facilities and processes as conventional plastics, per the firm.
The PolyEarthylene comprises polyolefin products that reportedly contain mix of renewable biobased polymer and natural feedstocks, as well as an undisclosed “biodegradation technology” and manufacturing process.
The bioresin is available in a range of biobased content levels—typically 27-75%—depending on the grade and customer requirements. Various grades are compatible with injection molding, blow molding, film, and extrusion and thermoforming application without any need for retooling.
The PolyEarthylene resins have similar performance properties and characteristics as typical petroleum based polyolefins such as PE and PP), according to Verde. As such, in most cases they can be directly substituted.
According to the manufacturer, PolyEarthylene resins are currently being evaluated as a replacement for standard polyolefins in several consumer product applications including caps and closures, blow-molded bottles and tray inserts.
The resins will typically degrade in a landfill environment in less than three years, says Verde. The company uses internal and external third-party testing facilities to validate its product biodegradation rates using ASTM D5511, which measure anaerobic biodegradation rates under landfill conditions.
Fragrance: Sampling & Beyond
Jean-Paul Gaultier has debuted its Divinely Solar range, which includes packaging components from Aptar Beauty. The collection comprises a fragrance, a body lotion, a shower gel, a 1.5 ml trial size and a Scentouch sampler.
The Aptar VP4 SNI15 perfume pump used for the Eau de Parfum Gaultier Divine is available in 30 ml, 50 ml and 100 ml formats. It features a screw neck to allow for refilling.
A gold ring on top of the pump acts a stopper, which needs to be removed to activate the spray.
It is also available in a sample size with the Easy Spray pump.
The Gaultier Divine 200 ml shower gel and body lotion are paired with Aptar Beauty's Satine pump to produce a 500 microliter dose.
A new discovery format, Scentouch, features a patented iD Scent technology in 100% paper samples. Aptar acquired iD Scent in March; the paper used in Scentouch meets a certain number of commitments, including Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certification, per the manufacturer.
Meanwhile, Arcade Beauty has acquired Orlandi’s TruEssence business, including laboratory and slurry production equipment and the related intellectual property of the organization.
As a result, Orlandi has exited the scented strips category. Following the divestment, Orlandi will refocus on its other sampling technologies and scented retail product lines.
The purchase removes a competitor of Arcade Beauty’s ScentStrip offerings, which allow brands to present fragrances in magazines, catalog inserts, direct mail and at retail.
In the meantime, Arcade Beauty is leasing the now former Orlandi facility located at 7026 Discovery Drive, Chattanooga, TN 37416 to consolidate and relocate its existing laboratory and slurry production processes supporting Arcade Beauty's scented strips and label technologies.
Packaging Supplier Expansions & Appointments
A number of suppliers have expanded their operations in North America and elsewhere. Several organizations have also updated key management roles. Here, we round up a number of recent moves.
Federal Package has appointed Melissa Niebes as CEO, succeeding Steve Dakolios, who has transitioned to vice chairman and senior adviser at the company.
Niebes currently serves as president and chief commercial officer and has been with Federal Package since 2021. She previously served as VP of sales at Reckitt Benckiser and VP of customer marketing at L’Oréal USA.
Of the news, Dakolios said, “Melissa is a trusted and growth-oriented leader with a long history in the consumer goods industry. She has brought fresh energy, vision, and direction to the company and will continue to build upon organizational processes and operational efficiency as the company scales. Now is the right time to bring in new leadership, and Melissa is well-suited to advance our long-term strategy and accelerate growth.”
The CEO transition comes as new production lines and manufacturing technology are set to come online in 2024.
Niebes noted, “We’ve added significant capabilities to support our exciting growth plans in 2024. Key resource additions included expanding our R&D, analytical and microbiology labs, and filling lines, as well as staff across every department in the organization. We will continue to build on our strength as we advance our strategic initiatives.”
Elsewhere, Premium Label & Packaging Solutions (PLPS) has appointed Chris Payne as CEO and Leslie Gurland as VP of sales and marketing; both are charged with uniting the company’s eight locations to operate synergistically under the unified PLPS brand. (The companies that comprise PLPS are Luminer, Overnight Labels, Label Graphics., HP Mile, Label One and Privateer.)
Payne has three decades of experience, most recently with InterFlex Group flexible packaging, as well as Oracle Packaging, Printpak and Sonoco.
Gurland previously spent five years at Lux Global Label and 17 years at Tadbik (home of Logitech). In her new role, the executive will expand the sales team and shift the organization’s focus from selling as individual companies to selling as a unified PLPS platform. She will also lead the company’s brand and marketing efforts and collaborate on product development.
“Over the last few months, I’ve worked with Leslie and the legacy owners to unify our strengths to benefit our clients and employees,” said Payne. “We offer a unique value proposition that is sometimes lacking in the private-equity-owned world of today’s label and packaging mega-firms: the personal touch of a small business with the infrastructure of a large organization. This model allows us to offer an extensive portfolio of conventional, specialty, and custom products, outstanding service, and quicker turnarounds.”
“Having known or followed the original founders throughout my career, I’m thrilled to join the PLPS team,” said Gurland. “Our slogan is ‘Changing the Packaging Paradigm,’ and we are extremely focused on delivering just that. We are committed to maintaining the passion, creativity, and responsiveness customers want while continuing to grow the company in size and unique offerings.”
South Korean Expansion
Berlin Packaging has acquired Nest-Filler PKG Co., Ltd., expanding its reach to South Korea and expanding its reach in Asia-Pacific’s beauty and cosmetic packaging market. All employees and locations for this acquisition will be retained.
The 20-year-old Nest-Filler develops packaging for skin care and color cosmetics, including plastic (including PCR) and glass packaging, as well as sustainable solutions such as refillable formats.
“This is a highly strategic acquisition for Berlin Packaging that expands our presence in Asia-Pacific and adds to our growing global beauty and cosmetic capabilities,” said Bill Hayes, Berlin Packaging's global CEO and president. “This acquisition also offers our customers even greater access to premium skin care packaging made in South Korea, the industry leader for skin care products.”
“We are very pleased to join Berlin Packaging, and we are eager to take an exciting step forward to provide our customers with access to Berlin Packaging's impressive suite of packaging products and services while sharing our innovative packaging solutions,” said Steve Shim, Nest-Filler’s CEO.
West Coast Office
The Texen Group, which has maintained a New York area presence since 2018, has expanded in the United States with the opening of a West Coast office for Texen Beauty Partners, the Group’s trading entity.
Texen Beauty Partners provides stock and custom packaging for makeup, skin care, fragrance applications and the beauty accessory market, all sourced in Asia and North Africa. Its target clientele includes both indie and large-scale brands.
Texen Beauty Partners’ management team is based in France, Asia and the United States.
Charlotte Oueini-Gentet, business development manager in Los Angeles for the Texen Beauty Partners' LA office, says, “The United States has always been viewed as innovative and always on the move…it’s confirmed! The momentum for new brands and product launches is extremely strong in Los Angeles. Being as close as possible to this market is essential to understand stakes and trends and gain in responsiveness! Our move to the West Coast is a real game changer for our business and we are proud to take up this challenge!”