In North America, the dynamic, multi-faceted color cosmetics market is valued at $15.7 billion. According to Euromonitor*, the segment has grown faster than any other personal care category in the past five years and is forecasted to grow by an additional 3.4% compound annual growth rate (CAGR) through 2020.
Even more impressive is the forecasted CAGR of 6% for the premium sector of color cosmetics, which accounts for 42.3% of the value of the category, according to Euromonitor. With so much growth on the horizon, the color cosmetics category is sure to be a great place to watch trends come to life.
Keep an eye on these top innovative trends in color cosmetics.
1. Highlighters Enhance Natural Beauty
K-beauty is one of the biggest influencers of trends in the color cosmetics and skin care market (see Page 46). South Korean women are using products that create beautiful, glowing skin, which has resulted in increased demand for a skin care regimen with cosmetics that accentuate, rather than mask, natural beauty.
In addition to the wildly popular cushion compact, skin highlighters, also known as skin illuminators, have seen a recent spike in popularity, with 709 North American launches so far in 2016, compared with 757 in all of 2015 (Mintel).** Examples include Perricone MD No Highlighter Highlighter, Benefit Cosmetics Dandelion Shy Beam Matte Highlighter and Wander Beauty Catch the Light Highlighter.
Bold brows that are well-manicured, full and thick have become all the rage.
New application techniques like strobing are creating a next-generation contouring effect that enhances and defines facial features while creating an overall luminous, dewy look. Best of all, the process is much simpler than contouring.
Skin highlighters can be used for strobing and come in a variety of easy-to-use formats, including liquid drops, powders, pencils or pens for a precise application to the face or eye brow area, and light emulsions with a high degree of spreading for easy application.
Croda’s Skin Highlighting Cream ED0004 features light-spreading ether Arlamol LST (INCI: PPG-3 Isostearyl Methy Ether), in conjunction with Crodafos CS-20A (INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 Phosphate (and) Dicetyl Phosphate), a substantive emulsifier with a light skin feel.
The natural look that skin highlighters make possible is part of the larger “natural” megatrend that focuses on health, wellness and looking your best with makeup that is designed to accentuate your features, not overpower them. The no make-up look is trending, with thousands of tutorials available online to help consumers achieve it.
2. Strong Brows Make a Statement
Bold brows that are well-manicured, full and thick have become all the rage, with companies like Benefit coming out with entire collections promising “instant solutions for every brow dilemma.” With nearly 300 launches, cosmetics for eyebrows comprised 13% of eye makeup launches in 2015, according to Mintel.
Examples of products in the space include Benefit Cosmetics Bigger & Bolder Brows Kit, Smashbox Brow Tech Shaping Powder and Wander Beauty Frame Your Face Micro Brow Pencil.
Eyelash primers saw tremendous growth in 2015 in both North America and globally; now there is similar launch activity for the general eye area.
According to Euromonitor, brow products are part of the fastest growing sub-segment of the color cosmetic market, “other eye makeup,” which also includes eye primers and eyelash growth products. In the North American market, this segment has grown by 8.3% CAGR over the past five years and is forecasted to grow at 8.2% CAGR over the next five years.
Brow products come in a variety of formats, and the accompanying applicator is essential for precise delivery of the product. Spoolie applicators help shape and fill in color delivered from pencils or gels that can highlight or help volumize eyebrows. Cream-gels are a novel texture for this category, delivering styling benefits to keep full brows tamed.
3. Cues from Skin Care
Eye primers are another fast growing sub-category of color cosmetics. There have been 41 launches in North America since the beginning of the year, more than the previous four years combined, according to Mintel. Eyelash primers saw tremendous growth in 2015 in both North America and globally; now there is similar launch activity for the general eye area.
Like BB and CC creams, primers are a crossover product from skin care. In fact, there are BB and CC eye primers, like bareMinerals Well-Rested CC Eye Primer, which promises to “instantly cool and recharge skin.” Most launches in this space are in the premium market, appealing to consumers who invest in their eye makeup and want it to stay on all day.
Seasonal color palettes follow trends set by the fashion industry, as well as innovations in raw materials with new pigments and new combinations of ingredients.
According to Mintel, the top claim for both eye lash primers and eye primers in North America is “long lasting,” followed by “ease of use.” Globally, “brightening/illuminating” is the top claim.
Eye primers designed for eyelids can be lightly tinted or clear serums, coming in formats like sticks, balms, creams or liquids that can be applied with a simple applicator tip, or long-lasting eyeshadow that endures for a specifically claimed amount of time. Eyelash primers are applied using a mascara wand. They are generally clear to emphasize one’s natural eyelash features but can also be topped off with a mascara.
4. Inspiration from Hair Care
Color cosmetics is also taking cues from hair care, as with makeup setting sprays, which can be thought of as a safe, gentle hair spray for the face. Most of these products claim to be oil-free and use a polymer to set the makeup so that it maintains the just-applied look.
This product is a perfect fit for the busy, on-the-go consumer. It’s important that the product dries quickly after it is applied, and that it provides a comfortable film that gives a smooth finish that’s not too shiny.
5. Color Palettes for All
Trends in the color category are not only about texture and formats but also colors and application techniques. Seasonal color palettes follow trends set by the fashion industry, as well as innovations in raw materials with new pigments and new combinations of ingredients. For example, L’Oréal has focused on meeting the needs of women of color with its new, bluer shades of foundation and deeper, bolder eye shadows featured in Lupita Nyong’o’s Lancôme campaign in 2015.
This exciting innovation is an important step toward providing more product options for the increasingly diverse population of the United States. Vibrant colors add an element of fun and allow for greater creativity and individuality, especially when creating a smoky eye look.
Matte lipsticks can be a balancing act because many of the emollients and butters that moisturize the lip area also leave a shiny finish.
An increasing number of colors can be incorporated into this popular look for a dramatic eye-catching appearance. Eye shadows should be easy to apply by either a brush or with a finger. When using a finger, it is preferable to have a texture that’s soft and silky to the touch and easily blendable without any residue.
Croda’s Smokey Velvet Eyeshadow ED006 (below) uses the novel silicone based emollient Sensasil PCA (INCI: PCA Dimethicone) to achieve an exceptional cushion and slip on pick-up. Croda’s Rich Emollience Lipstick (below) comprises Liquiwax PolyIPL for easy application, creamy texture and color payoff, and Cromollient DP3A for a rich emollience, excellent wax solvency properties, a robust stick structure and silky feel on application.
Croda’s Smokey Velvet Eyeshadow ED006:
Matte lipstick in bold bright shades is another hot cosmetic trend. Many of the latest launches are long-wearing liquids that promise comfortable wear all day long. According to Mintel, North American launches in the first half of 2016 have already surpassed the number of 2015 launches, and Brazil is showing a similar upward trend.
New combinations of emulsifiers, rheology modifiers, waxes and emollients are critical to future color cosmetic development.
Matte lipsticks can be a balancing act because many of the emollients and butters that moisturize the lip area also leave a shiny finish. The most common known disadvantage of a matte lipstick is dry, cracked or chapped lips, making it unpleasant for some consumers.
Because of this, it’s important to balance the product’s matteness and comfort, which in turn paves a way to new matte lipstick launches. It’s all about using the right combination of quicker drying emollients and gelling/structuring agents that are comfortable to apply but also add long wear that doesn’t feather or migrate.
New Opportunities for New Formats
Demand for greater variety in the skin care aisle has spilled over into the color cosmetic category. As a result, new combinations of emulsifiers, rheology modifiers, waxes and emollients are critical to future color cosmetic development.
The color cosmetic category is a great place to introduce new formats and textures to meet increasing demand, because behind every color cosmetic trend is the need for a great feeling product that applies easily and delivers the powerful visual effects consumers want.